Seven-Delta-FortyOne wrote:

kurt@welkerhomes.com wrote:

Seven-Delta-FortyOne wrote:
Just googled it.

Looks like it’s been discontinued already. :blink:

Have no idea what happened.

Maybe Hitachi is no longer making nail guns I don’t know.

Hitachi is now Metabo HPT so they would be under that name and may have new model numbers under their new…

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Seven-Delta-FortyOne wrote:Just googled it.

Looks like it’s been discontinued already. :blink:

Have no idea what happened.

Maybe Hitachi is no longer making nail guns I don’t know.

Hitachi is now Metabo HPT so they would be under that name and may have new model numbers under their new name.

It is now the NR90ADS1M in the 30 – 34 degree pap…[Read more]

Doobie wrote:

kurt@welkerhomes.com wrote:
Is the glide really that much better?

You might like having the up front controls over your old Dewalt.

The depth of the saw footprint behind being shorter due to the glide mechanism over the longish traditional rails may not matter to you though. That’s more a benefit for those skrimping on needing s…

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Today will be a day in the shop making trim work for the house we are working on.

We probably have close to a half mile of casing to make up. I think this house has about another quarter mile of base, but we ordered what we needed for that.

This dam was a huge engineering marvel. I remember reading about it in Engineering News Record. While a massive energy and flood control project, it displaced tens if not hundreds of thousands of people who lived in the areas that became the reservoir. There was also a frantic archeological search in the areas flooded to find, document and…[Read more]

I had one of my old Dewalt SCMS stolen off a job the other day with the stand and everything. Even though a 10+ year olf saw, still a great saw and working well. Thinking about replacing it with a 12″ glide but it is difficult to justify the $250 extra for that with no stand verses a Dewalt with a stand.

Is the glide really that much better?

cmeyer25 wrote:Hey everyone, I’ve been using a HF framing nailer for the past few months here and there along with a Husky brand compressor (both borrowed from my dad as I get up and running on my new business).

Neither of them are great quality but both have worked adequately for the shed and closet I built but now it’s time to return them and…

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Skillman wrote:From the reports and videos I’ve seen on IG . The fastenmaster glue used in the hot glue gun is crazy strong . The material breaks before the glue breaks apart .

We have been using the Fasten-Master hot glue for over a year now. The 30 second set and the 180 second set. Crazy strong and simple compared to a lot of other o…[Read more]

A couple of weeks ago I had gotten the Makita 36 volt worm drive circular saw. I finally got a chance to use it the other day cutting some treated 4 x 6 timbers. I was greatly impressed with the power and cutting ability on a full depth of blade cut in treated lumber. I would highly recommend this saw.

And another one, The ledger board was nailed to the house. Father and son were repairing it (to an extent) and it collapsed. Life threatening injuries to the father (neck and ankle).…[Read more]

has anyone seen this Makita light is it NAINA. It looks like this ad is from Great Brittan. The switch seems a little odd , I would expect a pushbutton like their flashlights. Is it possibly a non-Makita item that has been fitted to their batteries.

CB wrote:When you say 4×4 posts, do you mean steel bollards, or 4×4 wooden posts?

4 x 4 wooden posts. We will be replacing them with steel posts. With any luck we may be replacing about 20 or more guards that have wooden posts with steel posts at this complex.

Last week we got an emergency call from an apartment complex. A new driver put the car in drive instead of reverse and punched it. He took out the gas meter, AC condenser, 2 – 4 x 4 posts to barricade the meters and punched the wall in about 6″ Tomorrow, we will reframe the wall and have it inspected so we can finish the siding and drywall on…[Read more]

Boschmanbrian wrote:

theamcguy wrote:
New Makita Cordless Drywall Sander XLS01 is a “World’s First”

https://toolguyd.com/makita-cordless-drywall-sander-xls01/

That looks like a nice addition to the Makita line up
I am not sure why they went cordless on this particular tool , especially since most of the time , it’s hooked up to the vacuum/…

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I think the water-stop may be overkill as it expands as it dries unlike normal mortar that shrinks as it dries. I would just use a non shrink grout, not an expanding grout to fix up the edges and then landscape.

At this time making the downturn unless it extends at least 6″ to 8″ back from the edge of the slab is almost a waste of time.…[Read more]

If the slab has not moved yet, I would just pack soil around the slab to within 4″ of the top to keep the sub-base below the slab in place. Absence of the thickened edge to retain the base below the slab, something has to be done to keep the granular fill below the slab in place.

I have seen similar situation on a driveway when a rain comes…[Read more]

The 15 x 10 should have at least one joint splitting the 15′ dimension. the 8 x 10 is probably OK as is.

joesimpson wrote:Could it also be a weak lintel?

I would say that the crack is more indicative of a shrinkage crack that a sagging lintel. If the lintel were weak and sagging, you would typically see step cracks going up from each corner to the center of the window, creating a triangle pattern. The single crack as shown in the photo is more of…[Read more]

I saw the Woodpeckers add this morning. They do make pretty tools but I have never justified the price either. This one is basically a fancy 4 way pressure clamp that many other retailers make as a kit where you add your own wood.

eliminating the work to make your own would be great but at what cost.

Here is a Rockler kit version that…[Read more]

I would say the problem is the lack of a control joint. The stacked windows five the wall a weak point where it can “pull apart”. Cutting an existing joint and the brick in the adjoining course between the windows and the window and the base of the wall should work, then could patch the crack. there is n guarantee as the crack is there and it…[Read more]