- This topic has 851 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 11 months, 2 weeks ago by
.
-
Posts
-
This is a CMS stand that I made after seeing one someplace (don’t remember exactly where I saw it).
Basic stand but the shelf that the CMS sits on is free-floating with 4 bolts holding the shelf up and able to be adjusted so the CMS plate and the ‘wings’ are aligned correctly should something change when the cart is wheeled around from one place to another.
First shot shows the stand with one of the wings extended, second shot shows the nut/bolt adjustment that can level out the CMS to match the wings.I like that it lends itself well also to accomodate other saws quite readily that have may have a different platten height.
platten
Is this a typo or a real word??? I’ve never seen it before. Shouldn’t it be table height??
This is a CMS stand that I made after seeing one someplace (don’t remember exactly where I saw it).
Basic stand but the shelf that the CMS sits on is free-floating with 4 bolts holding the shelf up and able to be adjusted so the CMS plate and the ‘wings’ are aligned correctly should something change when the cart is wheeled around from one place to another.
First shot shows the stand with one of the wings extended, second shot shows the nut/bolt adjustment that can level out the CMS to match the wings.That’s a great idea , definitely practical for adjusting
I like those flip up wings easily stored and set up. Nice job. Can you adjust the wings also , I assume not really necessary if you have adjustment for the saw.platten
Is this a typo or a real word??? I’ve never seen it before. Shouldn’t it be table height??
I mis-spelled it, it’s ‘platen’ with one T, but yes it is a word. It’s more commonly used in the printing industry, but it also can mean a top surface of a machine where it is essentially the table part of where one works off of.
platten
Is this a typo or a real word??? I’ve never seen it before. Shouldn’t it be table height??
I mis-spelled it, it’s ‘platen’ with one T, but yes it is a word. It’s more commonly used in the printing industry, but it also can mean a top surface of a machine where it is essentially the table part of where one works off of.
It’s also (so I’ve heard) the part of a belt sander that the belt runs across that presses against the belt and into the work surface.
Charlie
__________________This is a CMS stand that I made after seeing one someplace (don’t remember exactly where I saw it).
Basic stand but the shelf that the CMS sits on is free-floating with 4 bolts holding the shelf up and able to be adjusted so the CMS plate and the ‘wings’ are aligned correctly should something change when the cart is wheeled around from one place to another.
First shot shows the stand with one of the wings extended, second shot shows the nut/bolt adjustment that can level out the CMS to match the wings.What a unique approach to keeping everything in proper alignment. I like that very much. What size casters did you use? Are you finding it necessary to adjust the CMS level yet?
I put 2-1/2″ casters on it, which as you can see from the picture – turned out to be an issue as the shop floor is asphalt. If I do it again I am going with 4 or 5″ casters.
Stan
From the Northwest corner of Montana.@Doobie,
True, just wish I had made the adjustable shelf a bit large to work for a larger CMS – but overall, yeah it makes it easy to set up for a different saw.
@Boschmanbrian,
The wings have had to be adjusted a couple times which is a matter of a couple shims to ensure both wings are co-planar. Once that is done then the saw shelf is adjusted as necessary.Stan
From the Northwest corner of Montana.I finished up a cabinet for the Glide today. Simple carcass and drawer construction, all solid wood except for 1/4″ ply on the drawer bottoms. It gets another tool box off the floor and adds to the storage opportunities. The tool box is on a pullout tray.
@piwoodworker I understand about asphalt floor; my last shop had a combination of old bad concrete and asphalt. It’s nice to be able to use 1 1/2 or 2″ casters again in this shop.
With the cabinet pulled out a bit I have 5′ clear on one side and 10′ at least on the other.
You can see the DC plastic bag. This is how it is now all the time now with the Super Dust Deputy.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.Attachments:
The tool box is on a pullout tray.
Well that came out nice.
I finished up a cabinet for the Glide today.
Nice little cabinet Peter, but it seems the saw is really low to the ground. I don’t think I’d like that low myself.
I finished up a cabinet for the Glide today.
Nice little cabinet Peter, but it seems the saw is really low to the ground. I don’t think I’d like that low myself.
Camera angle can be deceiving. The working surface of the saw is at 35 1/2″ from the ground, not an uncomfortable or unusual height.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.I finished up a cabinet for the Glide today. Simple carcass and drawer construction, all solid wood except for 1/4″ ply on the drawer bottoms. It gets another tool box off the floor and adds to the storage opportunities. The tool box is on a pullout tray.
@piwoodworker I understand about asphalt floor; my last shop had a combination of old bad concrete and asphalt. It’s nice to be able to use 1 1/2 or 2″ casters again in this shop.
With the cabinet pulled out a bit I have 5′ clear on one side and 10′ at least on the other.
You can see the DC plastic bag. This is how it is now all the time now with the Super Dust Deputy.
Really nicely done 👍 , I love not having things on the floor , so much better to be able to move them like this mobile base you made
Looks solidI finished up a cabinet for the Glide today. Simple carcass and drawer construction, all solid wood except for 1/4″ ply on the drawer bottoms. It gets another tool box off the floor and adds to the storage opportunities. The tool box is on a pullout tray.
@piwoodworker I understand about asphalt floor; my last shop had a combination of old bad concrete and asphalt. It’s nice to be able to use 1 1/2 or 2″ casters again in this shop.
With the cabinet pulled out a bit I have 5′ clear on one side and 10′ at least on the other.
You can see the DC plastic bag. This is how it is now all the time now with the Super Dust Deputy.
Hopefully your toolbox is not ‘stuffed’ like mine typically end up being. Mine would surely tip that cabinet over if pulled out too far. 🙂
Good to hear the SDD is keeping your bag nice and clean.
Stan
From the Northwest corner of Montana.I finished up a cabinet for the Glide today. Simple carcass and drawer construction, all solid wood except for 1/4″ ply on the drawer bottoms. It gets another tool box off the floor and adds to the storage opportunities. The tool box is on a pullout tray.
@piwoodworker I understand about asphalt floor; my last shop had a combination of old bad concrete and asphalt. It’s nice to be able to use 1 1/2 or 2″ casters again in this shop.
With the cabinet pulled out a bit I have 5′ clear on one side and 10′ at least on the other.
You can see the DC plastic bag. This is how it is now all the time now with the Super Dust Deputy.
That turned out great 🙂 I need to revisit my set up for my glide too. Since I did my last shop rearrange it’s been homeless.
Charlie
__________________I finished up a cabinet for the Glide today.
Nice little cabinet Peter, but it seems the saw is really low to the ground. I don’t think I’d like that low myself.
Camera angle can be deceiving. The working surface of the saw is at 35 1/2″ from the ground, not an uncomfortable or unusual height.
Yes, must be the photo angle. 35 and a half isn’t that low.
I set mine up in my main shop at 42 1/2 high. Largely due to space and machinery placement reasons, and at first it felt awkward, but since then, I actually prefer it being up that height. My router table is at that same height right beside it too.
I got the basic components for the hand saw till cut and the dovetails cut and chopped. No trimming yet; Just the way they came off the saw, rough edges and all. I’m pleased with the first dry fit, no major gaps and snug walls. Mitres haven’t been trimmed yet, still 1/16 or so to come off them to final fitup.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.Attachments:
I got the basic components for the hand saw till cut and the dovetails cut and chopped. No trimming yet; Just the way they came off the saw, rough edges and all. I’m pleased with the first dry fit, no major gaps and snug walls. Mitres haven’t been trimmed yet, still 1/16 or so to come off them to final fitup.
I love the spacing and slim tapers you used. You can tell there wasn’t a router and jig involved.
My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA
I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.
I got the basic components for the hand saw till cut and the dovetails cut and chopped. No trimming yet; Just the way they came off the saw, rough edges and all. I’m pleased with the first dry fit, no major gaps and snug walls. Mitres haven’t been trimmed yet, still 1/16 or so to come off them to final fitup.
I love the spacing and slim tapers you used. You can tell there wasn’t a router and jig involved.
Thanks, Jim, I was thinking of you when I was chopping; did you ever get your 1/8″ chisel? I got tired of trying to find a vintage one and broke down and ordered a Stanley 750 from Amazon. I had to grind the bevels a bit to accommodate the dovetail angles but it does the job very nicely. Not expensive either, maybe 15 bucks, and so far it holds a good edge.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.did you ever get your 1/8″ chisel?
Not yet, but I haven’t been doing too many dovetails. I will keep looking until then. Either that or a small fish tail chisel would be nice to have.
My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA
I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.
Saw till is all done now. A couple of missteps on the dovetails but not serious in shop furniture and good practice. I cut too far in the pin behind the mitre on the side panels.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.Attachments:
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.