[TopNotch]

So I dont know who here is familiar with Velux skylights but…. I have a customer with a fairly flat roof. 10 degrees. The builder install standard FS Velux skylights which are only good for roof pitches with slopes greater than 14 degrees.

It held for a while but the way the light is designed water ponds on the lower flange and seeps in. I am swapping out these units with FCM units which are curb mounted.

So the existing units had a channel in the wood frame to receive drywall and the new ones dont given its a built curb. I have to pad out the frame to come out flush with the existing drywall. Whatever I trim it out with will be exposed to the sun from the top of the skylight facing outside.

Not sure if you follow but I feel a bit concerned as to what will be durable from the sun? Was thinking some kind of PVC cap on my trim, or Boral….even some Aluminum

Thoughts?

Working Pro since 1993

Tom M

[jkirk]

first off i would explain to the homeowner the issue of the unit being the wrong type for the slope of the roof. let them know you cant install it in the right concious as it doesn’t comply with the warrenty / install guidelines of the product.

trim wise if your talking exterior of the unit i wouldnt trim it at all youll just be creating penetration points on it which will lead to possible leaks.

your doing so both to protect your reputation and the homeowners investment

heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

[kurt@welkerhomes.com]

I would drywall over the furing you installed on the interior. It will stand up to the sum as well as anything and better than most. trim the top edge with a j bead and put a good quality paint on it.

[KeeganC]

Second vote for drywall returns, it’s the cleanest looking, and yeah no worries about the sun. Although I don’t think if you cased it in wood it would be any more exposed to UV than an interior sill would, and they generally hold up fine with most finishes.

[TopNotch]

For drywall I would simply be extending the existing shaft.

The old Fixed unit is mounted on brackets that hold the unit with-in the opening. With the curb mount the 2x curb sits on the deck with the light over it. So I need to pack it out 1.5″ all around.

Because the curb now sits about flush with the rough opening I could technically remove existing furring/rock and end up flush with framing but that’s a lot of work and likely repainting the whole ceiling.

Working Pro since 1993

Tom M

[TopNotch]

I will try to upload a picture from the phone.

Working Pro since 1993

Tom M

[jkirk]

on the interior of them, im not a fan of drywall returns on skylights or normal windows for that matter. condensation forms on them which then gets absorbed by the drywall.. the paint begins to blister.. mold grows and the drywall crumbles… i would install some pre primed pine around it or even some pvc

heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

[TopNotch]

Here is what I am thinking

Working Pro since 1993

Tom M

Attachments:

1. 

   skylight.jpg

2. 

   IMG_20170527_082516278_HDR.jpg

[kurt@welkerhomes.com]

I think I would stay away from the PVC, to much expansion and contraction with heat differences. I would think any hardwood with a good prime and paint coat would do well.

[Sprokitz]

TopNotch wrote:

Here is what I am thinking

Looks like a plan. I would use all wood without any concern about issues from the sun.

[TopNotch]

Well its done I forgot to follow up the thread.

I applied 2x ripped around the perimeter and ripped the thickness to allow for 1x trim with just a 1/4″ beyond drywall.

As a bit of safety I rabbeted the 1x to lap over the rock. The top was capped.

Working Pro since 1993

Tom M

Attachments:

1. 

   1st-layer.jpg

2. 

   cap-layer.jpg

3. 

   finished-pine.jpg

[MJconstruction]

I know its already done and looks good but i have used the trimtex gasket j-bead to return into a skylight like that There was no curb involved though so i cut back the existing drywall to make a 1′ patch with the J.

[Author]

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