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r-ice.
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October 2, 2015 at 9:51 pm #403564
Don’t know about the walls but I just installed -a friend of mine – a spider on the ceiling. Like this one
http://www.stelpro.com/en-CA/spider-ceiling-fan-heater
Garage door will be changed in a couple of weeks.
October 2, 2015 at 10:05 pm #403568Price list for garage approx 23’x14’x10′
= ceiling 322sqft, walls 704sqft (1026 sqft total):Roxul attic ins. 2×4″ R14 = $225 (low end)
https://www.lowes.ca/insulation-batts-rolls/roxul-r14-comfortbatttrade-stone-wool-thermal-home-insulation-batts_g1363309.html?searchTerm=roxul-insulation-for-atticsThis is not going to be enough.
There is a room above the garage yes? IMO, R-14 isn’t nearly enough given to floor joists will be much larger than 2×4. They are likely 2×10 or so…you can insulate much more extensively. There is no reason not to go to R-30.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramOctober 2, 2015 at 10:13 pm #403571yellaD
ProI cannot find R30 Roxul anywhere. Not Lowe’s nor Home Depot.
October 2, 2015 at 10:27 pm #403577I cannot find R30 Roxul anywhere. Not Lowe’s nor Home Depot.
@yellaD,
If the ceiling joists are 10″, all you gots to do is double up on the batts.ROXUL 2×4 Batts = R14 then add
ROXUL 2×6 Batts = R24This will give you R38
“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingOctober 2, 2015 at 10:35 pm #403580yellaD
ProOk so if I use the cheap 6mil barrier and double up batts to R38 everywhere, that should be better? Let’s see what the cost to do that.
October 2, 2015 at 10:39 pm #403581yellaD
Pro@jponto0, I’m not sure what you mean by not enough? Do you mean that since I have to double up to make R30, I actually need 2200+ sqft? Or do you mean that my area calculations are off? 🙂
October 2, 2015 at 10:53 pm #403586You aren’t going to find Roxul in R-30…use regular fiberglass or go with spray foam. Roxul is great for getting a bit more R value in a studded wall than traditional fiberglass. It’s also more sound resistant, but it’s not something that is made in every size like the fiberglass is.
Nothing wrong with fiberglass either. Roxul was suggested because it’s a user friendly product that won’t make you itch and its more efficient for its physical size. If I were you, I’d buy the highest R value that will fit into the joist bays in fiberglass… Whatever size they are. The room above will be much more comfortable. Doubling in the Roxul is an option, but it would cost a lot more to do it that way.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramOctober 2, 2015 at 11:06 pm #403590yellaD
ProOk thanks fellas. I will look into that cheaper option @jponto0, also look into spray foam and see if it’s worth it.
October 3, 2015 at 4:03 am #403653Ok thanks fellas. I will look into that cheaper option @jponto0, also look into spray foam and see if it’s worth it.
also look into getting the roxul with some sound proofing capability.
side note, those bessey clamps, were they from the lowes clearance? i missed that deal
October 3, 2015 at 5:16 am #403672You aren’t going to find Roxul in R-30…use regular fiberglass or go with spray foam. Roxul is great for getting a bit more R value in a studded wall than traditional fiberglass. It’s also more sound resistant, but it’s not something that is made in every size like the fiberglass is.
Nothing wrong with fiberglass either. Roxul was suggested because it’s a user friendly product that won’t make you itch and its more efficient for its physical size. If I were you, I’d buy the highest R value that will fit into the joist bays in fiberglass… Whatever size they are. The room above will be much more comfortable. Doubling in the Roxul is an option, but it would cost a lot more to do it that way.
@jponto07 Jon,
My reasoning for ROXUL is, 1) better R value than fiberglass. 2) Being a semi attached garage, ROXUL is fireproof.Ok thanks fellas. I will look into that cheaper option @jponto0, also look into spray foam and see if it’s worth it.
also look into getting the roxul with some sound proofing capability.
side note, those bessey clamps, were they from the lowes clearance? i missed that deal
@yellaD Andy,
I mentioned to double up, but that would only be for the ceiling. To fill the 10″ cavity. Your walls would still only call for 2×4 batts.
@r-ice,
I’d have to disagree with you on the sound proofing or (ComfortBatt) ROXUL in this situation. It does not have the same R value and is best for interior use.“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingOctober 3, 2015 at 8:58 am #403763yellaD
ProWow @58chev, you have all that and you still need a 220 heater? This make me feel like I’ve got so far to go!! haha. I can’t even get the 220 heater cuz I don’t have an outlet in garage yet.
October 3, 2015 at 9:46 am #403789jponto07 wrote:
You aren’t going to find Roxul in R-30…use regular fiberglass or go with spray foam. Roxul is great for getting a bit more R value in a studded wall than traditional fiberglass. It’s also more sound resistant, but it’s not something that is made in every size like the fiberglass is.
Nothing wrong with fiberglass either. Roxul was suggested because it’s a user friendly product that won’t make you itch and its more efficient for its physical size. If I were you, I’d buy the highest R value that will fit into the joist bays in fiberglass… Whatever size they are. The room above will be much more comfortable. Doubling in the Roxul is an option, but it would cost a lot more to do it that way.
@jponto07 Jon,
My reasoning for ROXUL is, 1) better R value than fiberglass. 2) Being a semi attached garage, ROXUL is fireproof.I understand. It’s a superior product to fiberglass, but it can be costly. Didn’t the OP say something about keeping costs down? I was trying to suggest a more economical solution.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramOctober 3, 2015 at 11:09 am #403819yellaD
ProYes, I have to stay reasonable. It’s so easy to want to upgrade or maximize at every level but reality hurts. 🙁 Plus I’ll need to pay for labor a little at some point, esp the ceilings.
October 4, 2015 at 5:30 am #404069Yes, I have to stay reasonable. It’s so easy to want to upgrade or maximize at every level but reality hurts.
Plus I’ll need to pay for labor a little at some point, esp the ceilings.
if it is rouxel just put it up yourself, its not hard. just make sure you wear a mask, and if you don’t have a ladder, come borrow mine.
October 4, 2015 at 7:24 am #404103Yes, I have to stay reasonable. It’s so easy to want to upgrade or maximize at every level but reality hurts.
Plus I’ll need to pay for labor a little at some point, esp the ceilings.
I know it’s very easy to go way above budget but what would you need to have a trade come in to do? Ask @r-ice how easy it actually is to do a ceiling? I assisted with one room in his basement, showed him the do’s and don’ts. He managed to complete another room with little assistance from me. It really isn’t that hard.
I would tackle the ceiling first, if that’s what I could only afford to do.
1) Tear down what you have.
2) Put up vapour barrier
3) Put up insulation
4) Put up fire rated drywall (rent a drywall lifter) makes the ceiling job go so much easier and it literally can be a one person job.
5) Mud/sand all joints, I can see this as the only time you would need to have a trade come in. As most DIY’ers hate to mud/sand.“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingOctober 4, 2015 at 8:34 am #404120yellaD
ProHey thanks guys! Doing it in stages and starting with the roof first is a great idea, that might be the only way I can do this winterizing project. Time and money are my biggest hurdles, but you guys have really put the wind back in my sails!! 🙂 Now I gotta run it by the woman, it’s her house….wish me luck.
October 4, 2015 at 10:19 am #404147Hey thanks guys! Doing it in stages and starting with the roof first is a great idea, that might be the only way I can do this winterizing project. Time and money are my biggest hurdles, but you guys have really put the wind back in my sails!!
Now I gotta run it by the woman, it’s her house….wish me luck.
Good Luck hehehe
Isn’t always the case, “Gotta run it past SWMBO” “Se Who Must Be Obeyed” LOL“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingOctober 4, 2015 at 11:37 am #404171here check out this video
@58chev one thing i don’t understand, why did they use osb instead of drywall?October 4, 2015 at 1:48 pm #404205here check out this video
<figure class=”oe-video-container”><iframe width=”770″ height=”433″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/XMziwBDduVs?feature=oembed&wmode=opaque” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe></figure>
@58chev one thing i don’t understand, why did they use osb instead of drywall?Have you ever tried hanging something on jip rock. If you don’t hit a stud, not to strong. I’m guessing it gives them more sufficient hanging area, that’s what I have done in my work space in my garage, makes hanging tools and stuff easier.
October 4, 2015 at 2:53 pm #404215@r-ice,
People hang OSB or ply so they have a sturdy Surface to mount stuff.I have a couple areas in my shop that I put ply up over the drywall.
Dave did straight OSB or Ply and regrets it as wood actually has a lower R value than drywall and his garage can get quite cold in winter.
“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn Botting -
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