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What do you use for final prep on metal surfaces before painting?

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This topic contains 23 replies, has 15 voices, and was last updated by  gtaylor 1 year, 6 months ago.

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  • #453620

    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    @thedude306 or @bethepro have either of you used this product? I remember seeing it in ads a lot when I used to subscribe to 4×4 magazines and I always wondered if it worked as well as advertised.

    Great tip Brad on washing with hot soapy water first!! Now that you mentioned it we have a local guy that has a specialty painting company and I always see him outside with his big industrial heated pressure washer prepping his stuff. He paints BIG stuff. Crane booms, full truck chassis, etc.

    http://www.por15.com/

    I painted my jeep frame with it. It’s not really a converter, more of a urethane based paint, dries to a hard thick film.

    I honestly cant say it worked any better than just regular rust paint, it’s now bubbling and peeling after 8 years. The problem I found with polyurethane/polyethylene based paint is they peel in large chunks and hard to touch up.

    So it looks like wire brush, soapy water, then methanol is the way to go.

    @jzmtl,
    If you use a wire brush, make sure it is stainless steel and not brass.

    Thanks, will do.

    #453639

    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    I’m not a big fan of conversion coatings, but it’s better then nothing. You are still painting over “stuff” that doesn’t offer the best substrate for your primer to stick to..

    degreaser Wash
    Mechanical abrasion
    wash
    rust inhibitor/fast dry with lots of hot air movement

    2 part epoxy primer
    topcoat

    That is my preferred method for any coating going over steel.

    If you try and use mechanical abrasion to get rid of the grease all you are doing is end up embedding it into the steal. You want to clean first, then give it a profile to grab on to (and get rid of any mil scale), then clean the dust off (air is OK, but water is WAY better), then stop the flash rusting.

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

    #454017

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    ave either of you used this product? I remember seeing it in ads a lot when I used to subscribe to 4×4 magazines

    I have used POR15 and it works like ti says it does in the ads. Just scrape off the loose stuff, degrease and paint over the rust. It stops the rust dead converts it to an inert substance. Never had a problem with it peeling or flaking off and the rust never came back. What I have not done is apply any filler over it to fill in the pits. That I haven’t done. I was happy to stop the rust paint with the POR15 and then top coat with the color of the whatever I was working on to blend it in.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #530041

    gtaylor
    Pro
    El Dorado, Ar

    Sometimes I use TSP for metal an Concrete Sealing other times I use Acetone . A friend of mine that’s a great restorer of cars , says he use a product called prep sol from Sherwin Williams prior to painting bare metal .

    My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .

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