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V-35 What did you do in the shop / site today?

Viewing 20 posts - 101 through 120 (of 1,011 total)
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  • #696741
    Miamicuse
    Pro
    Fort Lauderdale, Florida

    Jim, that AAV vent should be positioned higher than the branch connection to the vertical drain. In addition, that connection fitting should be a sanitary tee

    Thanks! I will take action on that. I am confused by the horizontal term though as I don’t have anything horizontal, so I thought the wye would be OK. It worked like that before. Do you mean it needs a short horizontal run to it?

    Yes, a horizontal piece is needed prior to the connection. The connection should be a sanitary tee. The S-trap will drain fine, in fact S-traps drains better than P-traps but there is a tendency for S-trap to lose the trap water due to the quick down turn, and your wye didn’t help either.

    The following is the proper configuration. Note the AAV needs to be at least 4″ higher than the branch connection. The 4″ is not really that important, but just a guideline. Also, most jurisdictions also has a minimum length for the horizontal piece, generally to be 2X the diameter of pipe. So if you are using 2″ pipe, then that horizontal segment needs to be at least 4″ long.

    If this is a washing machine drain, then in addition you have a stand pipe. The stand pipe provides additional detention since the machine is empty a lot of water quickly with a pump, and the presence of suds (depending on your detergent of choice) will also slow the draining.

    Yes, you can swivel the parts of the P-trap in any direction you want. You can have the horizontal piece point to the right, then “roll” the U bend to the left to avoid going further to the left where you have constraints.

    Another thing worth considering is to install a clean out (sanitary tee with a plug) on the vertical section, so if you need to snake the drain in the future you have a convenient place to do it from. However this is not that critical because you can always unscrew the AAV and use that port to do it, unless of course this is all going to be inside a cabinet then the AAV port has no head room for a snake.

    #696767

    Called in for my hot work permit,
    More glass work today,

    #696769
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    Finishing up some drywall and making a little more progress on the vanity today.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #696786
    cranbrook2
    Pro
    Belgrave, Ontario , Canada

    Here are a few pictures from yesterday .One up one to go !

    #696791

    Yes, a horizontal piece is needed prior to the connection.

    Alright, I think I’ve got it now. Thanks. I will be removing it and fixing it up like the diagrams show. The P trap is less expensive than an S trap so I will see if that is a better way to go in the space I have.

    I will get the vent 4″ above the T. Yes, that will be the access for a snake if needed. It will all just live behind the wash centre, no closet.
    The space I have to work in is from the left most pipe to where the cable comes up through the floor. The cable is on the floor joist and the cavity behind the machine ends where the left pipe is. The depth is about 4 1/2″ from the wall. I could let the machine come a bit farther out from the wall though, so that will give me more room, which I may have to do. It’s going to be a bit crowded. I really don’t like the idea of having plumbing right over electrical.

    Thanks again…time to go buy some parts. Maybe this time I will post a photo before I glue it all together…lol.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #696798

    The lower retaining rail on the door of the fridge broke, and I can’t have the beverages falling out so I had to epoxy the crap out of it – hoping it will hold.

    Will

    #696800
    Doobie
    Moderator

    The lower retaining rail on the door of the fridge broke, and I can’t have the beverages falling out so I had to epoxy the crap out of it – hoping it will hold.

    I would have maybe slid a long piece of metal of some kind inside the cavity as well and epoxied that in also for additional rigidity.

    I did a similar fix on a bar fridge’s cracking plastic shelf a few years back gluing with hot melt a steel rod along the bottom front edge of the shelf.

    You get sick of lookin at the fix you can always buy a new shelf at an appliance parts store also. Probably cost you 20 or 30 bucks.

    #696801
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    You get sick of lookin at the fix you can always buy a new shelf at an appliance parts store also. Probably cost you 20 or 30 bucks.

    I did a similar fix a while back cause the replacement part would have cost me something like 60 bucks plus shipping. Obscene pricing on some of that stuff.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #696812
    Doobie
    Moderator

    You get sick of lookin at the fix you can always buy a new shelf at an appliance parts store also. Probably cost you 20 or 30 bucks.

    I did a similar fix a while back cause the replacement part would have cost me something like 60 bucks plus shipping. Obscene pricing on some of that stuff.

    I was lucky, there’s a little independent place not far from me and the prices aren’t bad on their parts. Online places for this kind of stuff can be outrageously overpriced.

    #696813

    OK, waiting approval on the new set up. Nothing is glued yet and the long vertical pipes still have to be trimmed down yet. I didn’t want to trim them until I got the OK on it. The short one where the washer pipe will go into will get about 3″ cut off it and the vent one will get “some” cut off, pending advice.

    Note the AAV needs to be at least 4″ higher than the branch connection.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #696817
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    Here are a few pictures from yesterday .One up one to go !

    Wow, they look even more impressive floating up in the air like that!

    Charlie
    __________________

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    #696826
    Miamicuse
    Pro
    Fort Lauderdale, Florida

    OK, waiting approval on the new set up. Nothing is glued yet and the long vertical pipes still have to be trimmed down yet. I didn’t want to trim them until I got the OK on it. The short one where the washer pipe will go into will get about 3″ cut off it and the vent one will get “some” cut off, pending advice.

    Note the AAV needs to be at least 4″ higher than the branch connection.

    This looks much better.

    I would have preferred a slightly longer horizontal piece than you have, but you are trying to minimize the gap behind the machine so there is a tradeoff.

    One other option available is to glue a “trap adapter” at the inlet to the sanitary tee. The trap adapter is a slip joint fitting that allows you to slide a horizontal piece in/out to adjust the length, and the whole trap configuration can be changed at a later time unlike a permanent glued setup. However once you use a trap adapter the piping upstream of that has to be tubular (not as strong) so that’s another tradeoff.

    How come there is not a hot and cold water valve or a dryer vent connection shown in your picture?

    #696830

    How come there is not a hot and cold water valve or a dryer vent connection shown in your picture?

    Because it isn’t in yet. Working on that now. Is is OK to put a copper feed pipe up between the electrical outlet and the vent pipe, or is that too close?

    Oh, and how much can I cut off the vent side? Is just below the drain side OK, so the 2 sides look about equal height?

    Edit: I moved the electric to the right about 4″ or better. Still will be behind the machine.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #696836
    RonW
    Moderator
    Holladay, Tn

    Here are a few pictures from yesterday .One up one to go !

    Nice setting for the houses. Having two Bob Cats was almost like cheating. lol

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #696838
    cranbrook2
    Pro
    Belgrave, Ontario , Canada

    Here are a few pictures from yesterday .One up one to go !

    Wow, they look even more impressive floating up in the air like that!

    I was equally shocked to see the pictures when the owner sent them to me .He did a great job on the stand and mounting the house .

    #696844

    ….and we have running water again. The drain system is still not glued together yet but I think it’s in its final configuration. I moved the electrical outlet and it will still be behind the wash centre. I got the feed lines in too. I could not get the left tap to turn that last little bit, so it’s a bit off. Oh well, it will be behind the wash centre too. I had just enough poly pipe to reach to the hole in the floor and went copper from there, shark bite fittings connect them. They sell it in 12′ or 6′ lengths. I bought 6′ and worked with what I had. There were no leaks the first time I turned the water back on. That never happens to me…lol.

    Thanks for the tips @miamicuse.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

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    #696847
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    Here are a few pictures from yesterday .One up one to go !

    Wow, they look even more impressive floating up in the air like that!

    I was equally shocked to see the pictures when the owner sent them to me .He did a great job on the stand and mounting the house .

    They look so much bigger and so much more impressive on the steel. He really did do a great job.

    ….and we have running water again. The drain system is still not glued together yet but I think it’s in its final configuration. I moved the electrical outlet and it will still be behind the wash centre. I got the feed lines in too. I could not get the left tap to turn that last little bit, so it’s a bit off. Oh well, it will be behind the wash centre too. I had just enough poly pipe to reach to the hole in the floor and went copper from there, shark bite fittings connect them. They sell it in 12′ or 6′ lengths. I bought 6′ and worked with what I had. There were no leaks the first time I turned the water back on. That never happens to me…lol.

    Thanks for the tips @miamicuse.

    Nice when a plan comes together. Good looking installation, Jim.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #696852
    GTokley
    Pro
    Madoc, ON

    ….and we have running water again. The drain system is still not glued together yet but I think it’s in its final configuration. I moved the electrical outlet and it will still be behind the wash centre. I got the feed lines in too. I could not get the left tap to turn that last little bit, so it’s a bit off. Oh well, it will be behind the wash centre too. I had just enough poly pipe to reach to the hole in the floor and went copper from there, shark bite fittings connect them. They sell it in 12′ or 6′ lengths. I bought 6′ and worked with what I had. There were no leaks the first time I turned the water back on. That never happens to me…lol.

    Thanks for the tips @miamicuse.

    That looks pretty good. I installed one of those cheater vents in my laundry hook too. I think I have mine high enough. But I have had no problems.

    Greg
    Do More of What Makes You Happy

    #696861
    Miamicuse
    Pro
    Fort Lauderdale, Florida

    ….and we have running water again. The drain system is still not glued together yet but I think it’s in its final configuration. I moved the electrical outlet and it will still be behind the wash centre. I got the feed lines in too. I could not get the left tap to turn that last little bit, so it’s a bit off. Oh well, it will be behind the wash centre too. I had just enough poly pipe to reach to the hole in the floor and went copper from there, shark bite fittings connect them. They sell it in 12′ or 6′ lengths. I bought 6′ and worked with what I had. There were no leaks the first time I turned the water back on. That never happens to me…lol.

    Thanks for the tips @miamicuse.

    JimDaddyO looks good. That AAV needs to be 4″ or more above the actual sanitary tee, so you are much more then 4″ now so that’s fine. The only thing is, since AAV is a mechanical vent, there will be a time when it fails, and when it does, you want to be able to easily unscrew it and replace it with a new one. Is that wood board going to hinder your hand from unthreading the AAV if you need to?

    The hot/cold lines are fine. Certain jurisdictions do not allow sharkbite fittings, and certain other ones do not allow it behind concealed walls. In your case it should work fine. I was going to say if you are soldering copper then being that close to the ABS drain might present a challenge but if you are using sharkbites then no issue.

    Usually the dryer vent duct being 3″ or 4″ prevents the dryer from being pushed all the way against the wall, and the washer would line up with the dryer so it doesn’t get that tight against the wall as well.

    You still have to rough out the washer 120V receptacle?

    Will there be a laundry/utility sink there?

    #696874

    ….and we have running water again. The drain system is still not glued together yet but I think it’s in its final configuration. I moved the electrical outlet and it will still be behind the wash centre. I got the feed lines in too. I could not get the left tap to turn that last little bit, so it’s a bit off. Oh well, it will be behind the wash centre too. I had just enough poly pipe to reach to the hole in the floor and went copper from there, shark bite fittings connect them. They sell it in 12′ or 6′ lengths. I bought 6′ and worked with what I had. There were no leaks the first time I turned the water back on. That never happens to me…lol.

    Thanks for the tips @miamicuse.

    JimDaddyO looks good. That AAV needs to be 4″ or more above the actual sanitary tee, so you are much more then 4″ now so that’s fine. The only thing is, since AAV is a mechanical vent, there will be a time when it fails, and when it does, you want to be able to easily unscrew it and replace it with a new one. Is that wood board going to hinder your hand from unthreading the AAV if you need to?

    The hot/cold lines are fine. Certain jurisdictions do not allow sharkbite fittings, and certain other ones do not allow it behind concealed walls. In your case it should work fine. I was going to say if you are soldering copper then being that close to the ABS drain might present a challenge but if you are using sharkbites then no issue.

    Usually the dryer vent duct being 3″ or 4″ prevents the dryer from being pushed all the way against the wall, and the washer would line up with the dryer so it doesn’t get that tight against the wall as well.

    You still have to rough out the washer 120V receptacle?

    Will there be a laundry/utility sink there?

    The AAV is easy to get to. You just grab it from the top and turn it. It that’s too hard 2 screws and the whole board in front of it will tilt out enough without hurting the poly pipes below.

    I soldered everything on the floor before installing it beside the pipes. Shark bite fittings are my only option. The existing pipes are polybutylene and nothing else is compatible with it. If we had the funds I would re do the whole house in PEX, but I would have to hire that out and that’s not in the budget.

    The Dryer vent outlet is recessed also. It is a stacked unit with the dryer on top. There is a panel in between them that can be removed which is where I will gain access to the plumbing hookups and the vent pipe. The back of the washing machine goes back about 4 1/2″ deeper on each side than in the middle. This recess is why I kept everything as narrow as possible so it will all be hidden behind the machine. I will eventually have video showing it all.

    Being an all in one unit it all runs on the same 240V outlet.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

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