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This cannot be cheaper then the pre drilled 8′ sections that you can buy and drop the balusters into, no drilling required.
Well I have never seen the option of pre drilled 2×4’s. Times are changing.
Mark E.
Pioneer, CA
Working Pro 1972 - 2015
Member since Jan 22, 2013
www.creative-redwood-designs.comI’m ripping out the first few feet of drywall in my basement to prepare for a french drain system to be installed, and wow the finish job on the basement was not done well.
Notice the PVC being cut right through the 2×4 studs. Nearly nothing left after the hacking away to create a groove for the pipe. This pipe, by the way, goes from a sink downhill into the SUMP. Unreal. Good thing I never used the sink, and I don’t think the previous owners did either (wasn’t even close to being hooked up to water. No running water anywhere near the sink thank god). So I’ll have to sister the bottom third of each stud where it was cut into.
Finally, I noticed that whoever did the drywall was not exactly careful with their screw location. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t know that PVC drain pipe is supposed to be a mounting location for drywall (see last pic!!) HAH!Attachments:
I’m ripping out the first few feet of drywall in my basement to prepare for a french drain system to be installed, and wow the finish job on the basement was not done well.
Notice the PVC being cut right through the 2×4 studs. Nearly nothing left after the hacking away to create a groove for the pipe. This pipe, by the way, goes from a sink downhill into the SUMP. Unreal. Good thing I never used the sink, and I don’t think the previous owners did either (wasn’t even close to being hooked up to water. No running water anywhere near the sink thank god). So I’ll have to sister the bottom third of each stud where it was cut into.
Finally, I noticed that whoever did the drywall was not exactly careful with their screw location. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t know that PVC drain pipe is supposed to be a mounting location for drywall (see last pic!!) HAH!Besides the pierced pipe, it may not be that bad if the stud wall exists only to hold up the drywall and insulation and create a gap between the foundation wall.
I personally dont like fiberglass batting against concrete walls. Will you redo it with foam board or spray?
You should post thst in the HHOF thread @MrFid. Its certainly deserving of it. What a job! 😟
I got to spend some time building a small clamp rack for my pipe clamps this morning. A quick, 10 minute project, but it made a big difference to me to get more of my stuff off the ground and in a place of its own.
Charlie
__________________Attachments:
Besides the pierced pipe, it may not be that bad if the stud wall exists only to hold up the drywall and insulation and create a gap between the foundation wall.
I personally dont like fiberglass batting against concrete walls. Will you redo it with foam board or spray?
@Montreal_Medic Okay fair enough. That is the only purpose of the wall. What is the reasoning for not liking the fiberglass? Whoever originally did it used cementboard (wisely, it turns out) for the first 3 or so feet off the floor. I was planning on taking that first three feet out so as to dig a french drain but leaving the rest of the blueboard. If there’s a good reason I should take it all down to the studs I’d do so. We haven’t had any issues with the concrete leaking. All the water we’ve gotten has been coming in from the bulkhead, which is another problem I’m addressing.
I’ll end up reinsulating the first few feet regardless. Would you recommend foam board or spray in that case?You should post thst in the HHOF thread @mrfid. Its certainly deserving of it. What a job!
HAHA I know. I’ll do that. It might show the sad state that my house was in that I didn’t even consider it. Just one more in a long line.
I got to spend some time building a small clamp rack for my pipe clamps this morning. A quick, 10 minute project, but it made a big difference to me to get more of my stuff off the ground and in a place of its own.
looks good, sometimes simplicity is best.
Besides the pierced pipe, it may not be that bad if the stud wall exists only to hold up the drywall and insulation and create a gap between the foundation wall.
I personally dont like fiberglass batting against concrete walls. Will you redo it with foam board or spray?
@montreal_medic Okay fair enough. That is the only purpose of the wall. What is the reasoning for not liking the fiberglass? Whoever originally did it used cementboard (wisely, it turns out) for the first 3 or so feet off the floor. I was planning on taking that first three feet out so as to dig a french drain but leaving the rest of the blueboard. If there’s a good reason I should take it all down to the studs I’d do so. We haven’t had any issues with the concrete leaking. All the water we’ve gotten has been coming in from the bulkhead, which is another problem I’m addressing.
I’ll end up reinsulating the first few feet regardless. Would you recommend foam board or spray in that case?Spray is good but expensive. What some do is foam board and use a canned spray foam or a small 2 part kit to seal all the gaps between boards, making a decent compromise between coverage and cost
Fiberglass batts can hold in moisture, which can become a breeding ground. May be paranoia on my part, but you can also get well past the R value of batting in the same space with foam board that you can do with batting, and it is a vapor barrier at the same time
Okay thanks for the info. I think that’s the route I’ll go. Foam board with can spray foam to seal gaps. I think I’ll leave the fiberglass in the top half of the wall for now. I appreciate you taking the time.
I got to spend some time building a small clamp rack for my pipe clamps this morning. A quick, 10 minute project, but it made a big difference to me to get more of my stuff off the ground and in a place of its own.
It is nice to get them up out of the way. I have to rebuild mine. I don’t like it.
I’m ripping out the first few feet of drywall in my basement to prepare for a french drain system to be installed, and wow the finish job on the basement was not done well.
Notice the PVC being cut right through the 2×4 studs. Nearly nothing left after the hacking away to create a groove for the pipe. This pipe, by the way, goes from a sink downhill into the SUMP. Unreal. Good thing I never used the sink, and I don’t think the previous owners did either (wasn’t even close to being hooked up to water. No running water anywhere near the sink thank god). So I’ll have to sister the bottom third of each stud where it was cut into.
Finally, I noticed that whoever did the drywall was not exactly careful with their screw location. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t know that PVC drain pipe is supposed to be a mounting location for drywall (see last pic!!) HAH!Oh, that’s bad.
I edited part 3 of the coffee table build. I went over my 20 minute restriction that I was trying for, but only by a little bit. I finish the machining on the top in this one. I will upload it later tonight and post it on my thread.
My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA
I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.
This cannot be cheaper then the pre drilled 8′ sections that you can buy and drop the balusters into, no drilling required.
Well I have never seen the option of pre drilled 2×4’s. Times are changing.
I’ve used them on tons of decks, and it goes very fast.
I was in at the supplier this deck package came from and a rep happened to be there. Apparently the chemicals in the treated lumber cause the aluminum balusters to corrode. Seems bizarre to me since the balusters would always have a plastic cap on each end that sits in the drilled holes, preventing any contact with the wood to begin with.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.2-x-4-x-6-treated-wood-drilled-rail.1000792880.html
Finished setting one cabinet and a little base that went up around it then finished one wall of the should sugi ban t&g
Spent the whole day in the garage re-arranging my shelving and making some room. Got my spare engine block wrapped, my power washer and generator now reside on my shelving.
“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it dies with you”
— Glenn BottingStarted framing the overhead for my shed entrance. Got afew rafters up, and then realized I have to fix a mistake before proceeding further but it started to rain and I was running out of daylight so I called it a day.
Notice the PVC being cut right through the 2×4 studs. Nearly nothing left after the hacking away to create a groove for the pipe
That’s why plumbing walls are required to be a min. of 2×6 in my area. Lot’s of specifics available on allowable notches.
Mark E.
Pioneer, CA
Working Pro 1972 - 2015
Member since Jan 22, 2013
www.creative-redwood-designs.comI got to spend some time building a small clamp rack for my pipe clamps this morning. A quick, 10 minute project, but it made a big difference to me to get more of my stuff off the ground and in a place of its own.
Time well spent! That’s something I need to do, too. Getting tired of a stack of clamps resting in a corner.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.More work on the cedar roof today. We only had two guys on site today, so we did a smaller section. It actually didn’t even take all day, so after we finished we met the other guys at a different job.
@Boschmanbrian I don’t know how old the barn is, but I don’t think the it’s too old. It’s framed with modern lumber (not rough sawn). As for the caps, I’m not sure exactly what we’ll do there. The existing roof has a pattern where the shakes are turned to run horizontal across the ridge, and they overlap at the top edge. I assume we’ll do the same or similar.I clean up all the studs to the bone which was pretty annoying with million staples and nails. I used hammer but was taking forever then pull out the mxh180 worked wonders. Now its ready to insulate and sheetrock.
plusoneconstructionllc@gmail.com
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