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Using Water Base clear poly over Oil base Poly

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  • #612556
    GTokley
    Pro
    Madoc, ON

    Ok I have been given the opportunity to teach a group a kids how refinish a bench that is used in a gym. My concern is the finish on it water base or oil base. My plan would be put a water base finish on the bench after we give it a good sanding. Would this be ok. I have put water base clear finish over oil base stains for myself. They seem good. I just have some concern as this not for me.

    Appreciate the feedback

    Greg
    Do More of What Makes You Happy

    #613166

    Everyone will do it so go ahead. It will peal. You are creating a maintenance issue. But nobody else cares and those of us who know will keep wipping the nasty off your booty

    Pro since 1990

    A mind is like a parachute. It doesn't work if it is not open

    Frank Zappa

    #613167

    Honestly, it’s not a user friendly product, but I’d suggest helmsmen by minwax. I wouldn’t bother

    Pro since 1990

    A mind is like a parachute. It doesn't work if it is not open

    Frank Zappa

    #613168

    With waterborne. I’m rereading your post. Yes the waterborne is easier. I never use it

    Pro since 1990

    A mind is like a parachute. It doesn't work if it is not open

    Frank Zappa

    #613201
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    Ok I have been given the opportunity to teach a group a kids how refinish a bench that is used in a gym. My concern is the finish on it water base or oil base. My plan would be put a water base finish on the bench after we give it a good sanding. Would this be ok. I have put water base clear finish over oil base stains for myself. They seem good. I just have some concern as this not for me.

    Appreciate the feedback

    Realistically, we are not going to have a choice but to use water base for everything we do very soon. Seems to me that our job now is to determine the best method for putting water based finish over oil base.

    I would say you are on the right track giving the bench a good sanding first, giving the new finish some tooth to bond to. I would be interested in knowing if there is some sort of prep coat to apply before the water base finish goes on.

    BE the change you want to see.
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    #613205

    Once dry, poly is pretty much poly, the base really does not matter and one can go over the other with some sanding to give it tooth.

    Getting pretty hard to find oil based poly in Canada any more. Oil based gives a bit of colour to the wood while water based is known for its clarity. Which is why I put a coat of BLO under water based poly. Some (like me) feel that the clarity of the water based poly looks a little stark and cold.

    But, you can get 3 coats of water based put on in a day. It only takes a few hours or less to dry depending on conditions.

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    #613212

    Once dry, poly is pretty much poly, the base really does not matter and one can go over the other with some sanding to give it tooth.

    Getting pretty hard to find oil based poly in Canada any more. Oil based gives a bit of colour to the wood while water based is known for its clarity. Which is why I put a coat of BLO under water based poly. Some (like me) feel that the clarity of the water based poly looks a little stark and cold.

    But, you can get 3 coats of water based put on in a day. It only takes a few hours or less to dry depending on conditions.

    One place I prefer water based poly is in oak. I really dislike the cathedral grain pattern, but oak looks (IMO) real nice under a water poly

    #613226
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    Once dry, poly is pretty much poly, the base really does not matter and one can go over the other with some sanding to give it tooth.

    Getting pretty hard to find oil based poly in Canada any more. Oil based gives a bit of colour to the wood while water based is known for its clarity. Which is why I put a coat of BLO under water based poly. Some (like me) feel that the clarity of the water based poly looks a little stark and cold.

    But, you can get 3 coats of water based put on in a day. It only takes a few hours or less to dry depending on conditions.

    One place I prefer water based poly is in oak. I really dislike the cathedral grain pattern, but oak looks (IMO) real nice under a water poly

    I have zero experience with water based finishes so it’s good to know that there are advantages. Thanks for that, Eric.

    I’m going to be doing an oak floor this summer; good to know how quickly water based finishes dry. Thanks, Jim. Since there isn’t much in the way of oil based floor finish available any more so I guess I’m going to have to adapt.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #613265

    Once dry, poly is pretty much poly, the base really does not matter and one can go over the other with some sanding to give it tooth.

    Getting pretty hard to find oil based poly in Canada any more. Oil based gives a bit of colour to the wood while water based is known for its clarity. Which is why I put a coat of BLO under water based poly. Some (like me) feel that the clarity of the water based poly looks a little stark and cold.

    But, you can get 3 coats of water based put on in a day. It only takes a few hours or less to dry depending on conditions.

    One place I prefer water based poly is in oak. I really dislike the cathedral grain pattern, but oak looks (IMO) real nice under a water poly

    I have zero experience with water based finishes so it’s good to know that there are advantages. Thanks for that, Eric.

    I’m going to be doing an oak floor this summer; good to know how quickly water based finishes dry. Thanks, Jim. Since there isn’t much in the way of oil based floor finish available any more so I guess I’m going to have to adapt.

    For my kitchen floor, I did rift sawn red oak (no cathedral pattern) and decided to do it with Waterlox – I am very happy with it, and I can touch it up when it gets dinged because it isn’t a thick film, its more of a penetrating oil/varnish. So it becomes a DIY project to re-do it. No need for sanding either.

    #613328
    Sprokitz
    Pro
    Eastern shore of, Pa

    water based is known for its clarity

    I could be wrong, but I think Minwax has a water based poly with an amber tint to it

    #613374
    GTokley
    Pro
    Madoc, ON

    Ok I have been given the opportunity to teach a group a kids how refinish a bench that is used in a gym. My concern is the finish on it water base or oil base. My plan would be put a water base finish on the bench after we give it a good sanding. Would this be ok. I have put water base clear finish over oil base stains for myself. They seem good. I just have some concern as this not for me.

    Appreciate the feedback

    Realistically, we are not going to have a choice but to use water base for everything we do very soon. Seems to me that our job now is to determine the best method for putting water based finish over oil base.

    I would say you are on the right track giving the bench a good sanding first, giving the new finish some tooth to bond to. I would be interested in knowing if there is some sort of prep coat to apply before the water base finish goes on.

    Yes I know it will be hard to find oil finish in the future. I will make sure we give the bench a good sanding. Thanks

    Once dry, poly is pretty much poly, the base really does not matter and one can go over the other with some sanding to give it tooth.

    Getting pretty hard to find oil based poly in Canada any more. Oil based gives a bit of colour to the wood while water based is known for its clarity. Which is why I put a coat of BLO under water based poly. Some (like me) feel that the clarity of the water based poly looks a little stark and cold.

    But, you can get 3 coats of water based put on in a day. It only takes a few hours or less to dry depending on conditions.

    I pretty much always use water base finish on my projects. I do like you can put 3 coats on in day. The clean up is easy too.

    I have used water base poly over oil stains before. But I concern there might be something different about putting water base poly over oil base poly.

    Thanks for your feedback guys.

    Greg
    Do More of What Makes You Happy

    #613467

    Ok I have been given the opportunity to teach a group a kids how refinish a bench that is used in a gym. My concern is the finish on it water base or oil base. My plan would be put a water base finish on the bench after we give it a good sanding. Would this be ok. I have put water base clear finish over oil base stains for myself. They seem good. I just have some concern as this not for me.

    Appreciate the feedback

    Realistically, we are not going to have a choice but to use water base for everything we do very soon. Seems to me that our job now is to determine the best method for putting water based finish over oil base.

    I would say you are on the right track giving the bench a good sanding first, giving the new finish some tooth to bond to. I would be interested in knowing if there is some sort of prep coat to apply before the water base finish goes on.

    Yes I know it will be hard to find oil finish in the future. I will make sure we give the bench a good sanding. Thanks

    Once dry, poly is pretty much poly, the base really does not matter and one can go over the other with some sanding to give it tooth.

    Getting pretty hard to find oil based poly in Canada any more. Oil based gives a bit of colour to the wood while water based is known for its clarity. Which is why I put a coat of BLO under water based poly. Some (like me) feel that the clarity of the water based poly looks a little stark and cold.

    But, you can get 3 coats of water based put on in a day. It only takes a few hours or less to dry depending on conditions.

    I pretty much always use water base finish on my projects. I do like you can put 3 coats on in day. The clean up is easy too.

    I have used water base poly over oil stains before. But I concern there might be something different about putting water base poly over oil base poly.

    Thanks for your feedback guys.

    I have a feeling oil based will always be around, just takes a bit more effort to find. I can still get the old oil based stuff over at a store dedicated to painting (the art version, not the trades version) with lots of high quality materials for canvas painting

    #613587

    Sorry for my aggressive sounding initial post, I have been dealing with this issue with a couple of recent jobs. Even if the can says safe over oil based and it’s waterborne, I don’t trust it. I agree that oil based stuff isn’t going anywhere. 15 years ago the sales reps were telling us to find something different…. That’s true to a degree depending on where you live. Benjamin Moore no longer sells dulamel but the still make impervo.. Sherwin Williams still makes lead based paint in us for export.

    I’m not a fan of waterborne over oak. There’s a depth that can only come from oil, I’m biased, lol. Waterborne is shallow and blue.

    It’s all about the weak link in the chain with finishing. Latex over oil will be the weak link.

    New stuff, there is amazing waterborne, the modified oils..im embracing the new paints. On the old houses I work on however, I still prefer slow drying penetrating primers, shellac based stain killers, and an appropriate poly on clear

    What’s driving me crazy now is I can’t sand if there’s lead based paint. It ain’t Kryptonite. I do get it, but my job is to make my project last as long as possible.

    Pro since 1990

    A mind is like a parachute. It doesn't work if it is not open

    Frank Zappa

    #742348
    mnak
    Pro

    i think both are useful it’s up to you what do you need. water base color and oil base both are perfect

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