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Using a lock miter bit

Viewing 20 posts - 21 through 40 (of 71 total)
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  • #455353
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Bosch does offer one that you can get through BTP though.

    Didn’t think of that and redeeming for one instead. I just found it. They only offer one size. That is a HUGE bit.

    http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail.aspx?pid=84508M#specs

    It’s too big for this purpose. My PVC boards are 3/4 inch thick. This handles 45 degree mitered edges that are over an inch thick.

    As for the domino…wouldn’t “end grain” be showing in that scenario?

    You’re thinking of thru temons. They would be buried from view.

    You can use regular PVC glue, except that it sets up too fast. There are similar glues available that set up much slower.

    That’s just it. I’ve yet to find any ‘regular PVC glues/adhesives for this.

    Here is one, but there are many out there.

    http://stage.azek.com/azek-trim/azek-adhesive.aspx

    Thanks Mark. Stupid me, I should have thought of Azek. Lowes carries it not far from me, although I would think that everything Azek thru them including the glue is special order.

    Have you glued with that kind of glue before Mark? How would you describe the consistency? The PVC pipe stuff is pretty shloppy jello which can end up anywhere and marrs surfaces where it comes into contact with fairly immediately. Does the Azek PVC glue wipe off without leaving scars/blemish off of surfaces it accidentally falls on that you try to wipe off?

    #455373
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    jponto07 wrote:
    Bosch does offer one that you can get through BTP though.
    Didn’t think of that and redeeming for one instead. I just found it. They only offer one size. That is a HUGE bit.

    http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Accessories/Pages/BoschAccessoryDetail.aspx?pid=84508M#specs

    It’s too big for this purpose. My PVC boards are 3/4 inch thick. This handles 45 degree mitered edges that are over an inch thick.

    jponto07 wrote:
    As for the domino…wouldn’t “end grain” be showing in that scenario?
    You’re thinking of thru temons. They would be buried from view.

    I think this bit is meant for 3/4 stock. Most are good for a range of sizes though.

    As for the domino…I meant the end grain of the PVC would be visible not the Domino itself. Wouldn’t you join the two boards face to edge, leaving the end grain of the face board exposed?

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #455374
    Doobie
    Moderator

    As for the domino…I meant the end grain of the PVC would be visible not the Domino itself. Wouldn’t you join the two boards face to edge, leaving the end grain of the face board exposed?

    That makes more sense. Good thought. As long as I was to use the nicely smooth factory edge, I’d be fine.

    I think this bit is meant for 3/4 stock. Most are good for a range of sizes though.

    I don’t think so. I think you are somewhat dictated by the height of the bit from the tip of the ‘cone’ to its height otherwise the miter does not end up in the right location for a proper fitting joint. While you could maybe get away with running a smaller thickness along the edge by centering where the miter cut will be, you’d have to also make sure that in doing this you are perfectly centered so the mating joints fit properly and that there is enough stock that is left on both sides of the joint so that strength is not compromised.

    They really need either a better diagram on the Bosch site or simply state what material thickness this bit can be used at. The measurement in question I’m speaking of in regards to the height is the “B” number in this illustration below. Fortunately, I have the Bosch catalogue, and it does show that B measurement to be 1 3/16ths. I’m not sure that I’d go as low as 3/4 inch thick stock with this bit. The remaining stock would likely be pretty thin.

    #455431
    redwood
    Pro

    Have you glued with that kind of glue before Mark? How would you describe the consistency? The PVC pipe stuff is pretty shloppy jello which can end up anywhere and marrs surfaces where it comes into contact with fairly immediately. Does the Azek PVC glue wipe off without leaving scars/blemish off of surfaces it accidentally falls on that you try to wipe off?

    I’ve used the azek glue plenty of times. It’s very similar in consistency to regular PVC glue. I’m usually doing the glue ups on a table or saw horses, so I’m not getting it on other surfaces. Most of the excess wipes up with a rag and the rest is easily sandable.

    Regarding the lock miter bit, they are really made for specific thickness’s.

    You don’t have to miter most PVC trim, though you can. With a little sanding, the edges will look fine. There is no grain per se with PVC.

    PVC also comes in a lot of different thicknesses. If you need a lot, its usually cheaper to buy sheets and rip it yourself. I hate PVC saw dust, so you take that into consideration as well.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #455649
    Doobie
    Moderator

    I was reading comments on another forum with a fellows plight in dealing with using his lock miter bit and the difficulties he was having. That is until he got this lock miter bit centering jig from Infinity Tools. A bit pricey for what it is, but there are a lot of satisfied users.

    http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lock-Miter-Master-Jig-Set-For-3_8-1-3_16-Stock/productinfo/00-LMM/

    http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/FWW_LMM%20Article.jpg

    http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Lock%20Miter%20Master%20Manual.pdf

    Any Canadians ordering from them….watch out. Apparently it is brutal shipping costs for something so smallish.

    #455651
    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    That worked real nice. I can’t see the cost of it though. I wonder if one could be made ? I need to get mine out and try it some time.

    #455652
    Doobie
    Moderator

    That worked real nice. I can’t see the cost of it though. I wonder if one could be made ? I need to get mine out and try it some time.

    That’s what I was thinking. One could probably make one with enough effort.

    #455697
    redwood
    Pro

    If I thought I was going to do a lot of lock miters, I think I would just set up a router table to permanently cut them. I certainly have enough routers, just need another table.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #455715
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I think this bit is meant for 3/4 stock. Most are good for a range of sizes though.

    I read what doobie wrote but think that bit is for ¾” plus stock.

    #469646
    JerrySats
    Pro
    Garnet Valley, PENNSYLVANIA

    Its worth the money to buy the set up block that the better bit makers offer . As you change material thickness so does the bit need to change . It can drive you nuts if you work with different thickness materials a lot . It’s a great joint if a miter style joint is what you want , very strong with all the glue surface you can get .

    #469735
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Right now, I do plan on getting a lock miter bit for when I go to clad an outside support pole with 3/4 PVC. I have a decent router table setup and hope to be able to rout my miter slots without too many issues. Seems to me the lock miter joint is the one that if executed properly is the most esthetically appealing for a square column. I’ll post further when get I get around to this job which won’t be for at least some months from now.

    #469743
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    If I thought I was going to do a lot of lock miters, I think I would just set up a router table to permanently cut them.

    I think it’s a great bit and would love to have one. Does that jig in the video come with the bit or sold separately??

    #470025
    Doobie
    Moderator

    If I thought I was going to do a lot of lock miters, I think I would just set up a router table to permanently cut them.

    I think it’s a great bit and would love to have one. Does that jig in the video come with the bit or sold separately??

    Pretty sure it’s it’s just the centering jig. No actual router bit included.

    #470224

    I would think you need a station setup . Using those bits on hand unit would be hard in my opinion .

    Always willing to learn .

    #470231
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I would think you need a station setup . Using those bits on hand unit would be hard in my opinion .

    I don’t think you could cut a lock miter joint with a hand held router. The height and depth of cut have to be spot on exact…which is basically impossible with a hand held router.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #470239
    redwood
    Pro

    When I finish my chairs, I’ll see if I can play around with lock miter bit.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #470245
    JerrySats
    Pro
    Garnet Valley, PENNSYLVANIA

    Its not a good idea to use a handheld router with this bit . You need to run one part flat on the table and the mating piece you run standing against the fence .

    #470248

    I would think you need a station setup . Using those bits on hand unit would be hard in my opinion .

    I don’t think you could cut a lock miter joint with a hand held router. The height and depth of cut have to be spot on exact…which is basically impossible with a hand held router.

    Is there a requirement for router horse power to use those miter bits .

    Its not a good idea to use a handheld router with this bit . You need to run one part flat on the table and the mating piece you run standing against the fence .

    Seems totally right what you are talking about .

    Always willing to learn .

    #470288
    Doobie
    Moderator

    When I finish my chairs, I’ll see if I can play around with lock miter bit.

    What are you planning on building with that kind of joint Mark?

    #470291
    redwood
    Pro

    When I finish my chairs, I’ll see if I can play around with lock miter bit.

    What are you planning on building with that kind of joint Mark?

    Probably nothing at this point, but I will play around with it and let you know what I think.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

Viewing 20 posts - 21 through 40 (of 71 total)
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