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Using a lock miter bit

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  • #454106
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I don’t yet own one, but I’ve been interested in the method for a while now. Once the setup is compete, it seems straight forward. Here’s an article that just came to my email from JLC that is quite helpful.

    http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/making-tapered-columns-with-lock-miters_o?utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=Article&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=JLC_011016%20(1)&he=b175531cd363adcd0e90d15a4b8e8bea089e4309

    I recall that Mark bought a lock miter bit recently…anyone else use this method? Thoughts?

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #454127
    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    ive seen them in a few articles in different magazines.. i have yet to do it though. it definitely looks like a strong joint. i dont do enough drawer assembly to bother with it

    heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

    #454139
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    ive seen them in a few articles in different magazines.. i have yet to do it though. it definitely looks like a strong joint. i dont do enough drawer assembly to bother with it

    I haven’t considered using one for assembling drawers, but it’s probably a viable option.

    I thought it would be a great joint for long miters or for times when movement was likely.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #454147
    RonW
    Moderator
    Holladay, Tn

    I have looked at the bit on the list a few times. And wondered if I might want to try it out. Just haven’t pulled the trigger.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #454163
    asevereid
    Pro
    Kamloops, BC

    There was a discussion about these bits a while back on a different forum, and the consensus was that while the bits provided a great joining option, all the variables had to be perfect (ie: tapered column field pieces being exact, feeding the piece through the table had to be done consistently and repeatably…etc).
    I’ll see if I can dig up a link to it…

    Lurking Hit and Run poster.

    #454164
    asevereid
    Pro
    Kamloops, BC
    #454178

    Here is another alternative to the lock miter bit for drawer or box joinery, especially when using plywood:

    http://www.infinitytools.com/1_2-Shank-Lapped-Miter-Router-Bit-Set-w_-3_4-Setup-Block/productinfo/55-505/

    Attachments:
    #454183
    woodman_412
    Moderator

    I’ve given some thought to trying out one of those bits too but haven’t yet. They would be great for pull out trays in kitchens where the front of the box is exposed with no additional front on it. Most of my drawer boxes are melamine so I haven’t tried the bit yet, it would really be best suited for solid wood I think.

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #454342
    Doobie
    Moderator

    You have to be really well set up to get his to work well by the looks of it.

    But it is an interesting option. I want to wrap an exterior 3in metal post we have as part of our 60’s outdoor front porch/entrance area. I was looking at using PVC for it and assembly with Dominos, but this may be a better alternative.

    Question though in regards to PVC. WHat do you use to glue it? Not the PVC stuff for PVC drain pipes I assume? I asked at HD if they have PVC glue/adhesive, and they showed me PL Premium, which I think is probably because they didn’t know and PL tends to be the go-to outdoor applications adhesive.

    EDIT: Just found that Lee Valley carries them. Holy crap they’re not cheap. $85 for the 3/4 in thick one.

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30119&cat=1,46168,69435,46174

    They even have them available with 8mm shanks also.

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69422&cat=1,46168,69399,69419

    This actually may be the solution I’m looking for though for my post wrapping project.

    Attachments:
    #454446
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    You have to be really well set up to get his to work well by the looks of it.

    But it is an interesting option. I want to wrap an exterior 3in metal post we have as part of our 60’s outdoor front porch/entrance area. I was looking at using PVC for it and assembly with Dominos, but this may be a better alternative.

    Question though in regards to PVC. WHat do you use to glue it? Not the PVC stuff for PVC drain pipes I assume? I asked at HD if they have PVC glue/adhesive, and they showed me PL Premium, which I think is probably because they didn’t know and PL tends to be the go-to outdoor applications adhesive.

    EDIT: Just found that Lee Valley carries them. Holy crap they’re not cheap. $85 for the 3/4 in thick one.

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30119&cat=1,46168,69435,46174

    They even have them available with 8mm shanks also.

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69422&cat=1,46168,69399,69419

    This actually may be the solution I’m looking for though for my post wrapping project.

    I have looked at them, too, but hesitated. I agree that setup is critical and, for longer length stock, feeding would also be touchy. Featherboards, guides and a lot of care would be a must.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #454604
    redwood
    Pro

    I saw the article and if Gary says the lock miter is a good solution, I’ll believe him. I haven’t tried mine yet, but I hope to soon. I could have used it on my POS mobile clamp stand. The 3/4″ one I purchased was about $50 at Rockler.

    I have purchased PVC corners and column wraps that use the lock miter joint, and they are very strong. You can use regular PVC glue, except that it sets up too fast. There are similar glues available that set up much slower. No way would I use PL Premium. That would be a mess and harder to get a tight joint, if you could.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #454759
    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    I’ve given some thought to trying out one of those bits too but haven’t yet. They would be great for pull out trays in kitchens where the front of the box is exposed with no additional front on it. Most of my drawer boxes are melamine so I haven’t tried the bit yet, it would really be best suited for solid wood I think.

    why more so with solid wood. do you figure with plywood because of the veneers the joint would be weaker?

    heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

    #454782

    why more so with solid wood. do you figure with plywood because of the veneers the joint would be weaker?

    I think that plywood may not machine as well as solid wood because of the thinness of the plies or the occasional voids. Also after machining, the thin portion that would make the lock part of the miter may not have the strength to hold.

    #454891
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    That looks like a great system to get a very strong corner. With some glue it looks bullet proof.

    #454906
    Doobie
    Moderator

    why more so with solid wood. do you figure with plywood because of the veneers the joint would be weaker?

    I think that plywood may not machine as well as solid wood because of the thinness of the plies or the occasional voids. Also after machining, the thin portion that would make the lock part of the miter may not have the strength to hold.

    I agree. At the very least, you’d want to use non-Chinese Baltic birch.

    #454915
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    why more so with solid wood. do you figure with plywood because of the veneers the joint would be weaker?

    I think that plywood may not machine as well as solid wood because of the thinness of the plies or the occasional voids. Also after machining, the thin portion that would make the lock part of the miter may not have the strength to hold.

    I agree. At the very least, you’d want to use non-Chinese Baltic birch.

    you can also use marine grade ply as that has no voids and is of a much higher quality.

    #454950
    Doobie
    Moderator

    You can use regular PVC glue, except that it sets up too fast. There are similar glues available that set up much slower.

    That’s just it. I’ve yet to find any ‘regular PVC glues/adhesives for this.

    #455194
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I have purchased PVC corners and column wraps that use the lock miter joint, and they are very strong.

    It is the prefabed columns is where I’ve seen this type of corner too.

    #455237
    redwood
    Pro

    You can use regular PVC glue, except that it sets up too fast. There are similar glues available that set up much slower.

    That’s just it. I’ve yet to find any ‘regular PVC glues/adhesives for this.

    Here is one, but there are many out there.

    http://stage.azek.com/azek-trim/azek-adhesive.aspx

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #455331
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    You have to be really well set up to get his to work well by the looks of it.

    But it is an interesting option. I want to wrap an exterior 3in metal post we have as part of our 60’s outdoor front porch/entrance area. I was looking at using PVC for it and assembly with Dominos, but this may be a better alternative.

    Question though in regards to PVC. WHat do you use to glue it? Not the PVC stuff for PVC drain pipes I assume? I asked at HD if they have PVC glue/adhesive, and they showed me PL Premium, which I think is probably because they didn’t know and PL tends to be the go-to outdoor applications adhesive.

    EDIT: Just found that Lee Valley carries them. Holy crap they’re not cheap. $85 for the 3/4 in thick one.

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30119&cat=1,46168,69435,46174

    They even have them available with 8mm shanks also.

    http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=69422&cat=1,46168,69399,69419

    This actually may be the solution I’m looking for though for my post wrapping project.

    Yep, they aren’t cheap…Bosch does offer one that you can get through BTP though.

    As for the domino…wouldn’t “end grain” be showing in that scenario? I realize it’s PVC, but hiding the ends is still a concern, IMO. The lock miter joints would accomplish this while remaining strong at the same time.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

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