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AndyG.
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January 13, 2016 at 7:07 pm #455867
overanalyze
Pro@AndyG had a great idea to start a topic on tile showers and tubs. There are so many methods, styles, waterproofing systems, grout types, etc. This is the spot to ask questions and show off your work.
Here is a couple showers I have done.
Andrew
A Working Pro since 1995!
Member since March 26, 2014.
January 13, 2016 at 7:31 pm #455891Nice work OA. What is everyones favored waterproofing system? Cement board/Hardi with a paint on membrane or complete system like Schluter Kerdi or TruGuard?
Chad
A Working Pro since 1993
Member since 12/07/2013January 13, 2016 at 7:53 pm #455902@overanalyze , some great shower tile work you have done Andrew,
January 13, 2016 at 9:10 pm #455923overanalyze
ProThanks @ChadM & @Boschmanbrian.
Chad I have used quite a few systems and like each one for different reasons or situations.
I like a liquid like Mapei AquaDefense if it is a tub surround or a fiberglass shower pan.
I have done a few complete Kerdi installs and like it but it does take a little bit of time and the recommendation of non-modified thinset still bugs me a bit. I prefer a white modified thinset but can’t use it with Kerdi.
I am going to use a new product to me on my current shower. Johns Manville has a product called GoBoard. I did some testing on it myself and was very pleased with the results.
I made a pyramid and sealed the joints with a urethane caulk. After I let it setup I filled it with water and let it sit overnight. It didn’t leak anywhere.
So then I stood on the pyramid to test the strength of the product and the adhesive. It held my weight, my partnered stood on it and he has 50 lbs on me, and it with stood me jumping on it.
I will keep everyone posted on how I like using it.
Andrew
A Working Pro since 1995!
Member since March 26, 2014.
January 13, 2016 at 9:14 pm #455928Doobie
ModeratorGood timing Andrew. I’m about to get restarted on a gutted shower/bathroom that has been sitting idle for too long and was thinking of starting a similar thread myself.
Just today in fact. I received an information kit from Shluter/Kerdi with all sorts of booklets/brochures, design estimator sheets, product guides and such. I also got some swag too, including stickers no less, which was an added bonus.
Although I didn’t ask for it, the rep sent me info on their Keri-Line product. Linear shower drains. I had seen those a while back, but had dismissed implementing it as the shower space already had the new outlet in place which is in cement in the center of what would be the pan of the shower area. Figured I would have had to dig it back up and have it placed along a wall. But no, you can have them centrally set up with a center drain. Now I’m excited as this offers a more modern look and also one of the options is the tiled covered option. I can also use larger tiles for the shower floor. Never been crazy about mosaic or small tiles.
Another system I had looked at yesterday was WEDI. Anybody use their system? looks easier than Schluter, but I’m not so sure. You’re basically relying on a joint compound/caulk for the waterproof seal whereas Schluter uses overlapping bonded membranes. I think I’ve almost dismissed this option already.
I have to admit I am kinda not looking at any other systems as for man made systems, the only decent tile supply store carries those two. I have looked at the old fashioned method of making your own mortar beds and also cement board walls, but frankly, these systems seem a lot easier, quicker, and I don’t mind the cost factor difference.
Another related area is tile leveling systems. I looked around for Raimondi having seen @AndyG IIRC using that system, but unfortunately, there is nobody close by who carries it. The tile store I mentioned earlier said they used to carry it, and now carry a similar Canadian made product here.
http://ptxgroup-store.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=148
This system, seems really easy-peasy, is more economical up here than the Raimondi system, and I can get supplies/refills nearby. A quick video of this system.
http://ptxgroup-store.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=74&product_id=148
My area I will doing is 32″ X 5′. I am still considering having the entrance at the far end and making it curbless. There’s already a higher transition level from the hallway leading to this bathroom that is about 1 1/4 high.
I’m also looking at heating the floor outside the shower area. I had already bought a system at HD a long time ago in anticipation, which they still carry that I could return, as now I’ve looked at the Schluter Ditra Heat as a heated floor solution. Again, a lot less work and more flexibility in layout.
http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Floor-Warming/c/FW
(Pics below are of the Kerdi-Line drain styles of a grated option or a hidden tile covered option. Other pic is of the goodies/info samples I received from Schluter today.)
January 13, 2016 at 9:28 pm #455935Nice work! I’ve tiled quite a few floors and walls, but not in a shower, so I’m following along and hoping to learn a bit. Great thread!
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramJanuary 14, 2016 at 7:40 am #456119AndyG
ProOn Showers, We preslope the floor, add more weep holes, and do a .040 mil pan clamped only to Sioux Chief drains, and use Prova on walls and curb , always careful to flash curb corners with nobleseal..Prova stiff, flat and water tight….and tile bonds well, is basically hang and seal. About $20 per 3×5. Not a huge fan of liquids . We use Schluter when its low profile and seal the overlap with Redgard. Bottom line is this: waterproof is like pregnant ..either you are, or you aren’t. The best type of system is one you know how to work with correctly. Mixing paint ons with a traditional pan has some serious drawbacks as well.
January 14, 2016 at 7:47 am #456124On Showers, We preslope the floor, add more weep holes, and do a .040 mil pan clamped only to Sioux Chief drains, and use Prova on walls and curb , always careful to flash curb corners with nobleseal..Prova stiff, flat and water tight….and tile bonds well, is basically hang and seal. About $20 per 3×5. Not a huge fan of liquids . We use Schluter when its low profile and seal the overlap with Redgard. Bottom line is this: waterproof is like pregnant ..either you are, or you aren’t. The best type of system is one you know how to work with correctly. Mixing paint ons with a traditional pan has some serious drawbacks as well.
What do you mean when you say more weep holes?
January 14, 2016 at 7:48 am #456125@ andyg what drawbacks have you seen with liquid membrane and traditional pans?
--Steve
January 14, 2016 at 7:54 am #456127AndyG
ProWeepholes are what lets the water out of the pan …what allow the subdrain to work. On using liquids….traditional pan systems are designed to stay open …to waterproof over them means the same weepholes that let water out will let it back in , when the drain gets slow …and then it can’t breathe . There is also the issue with water wicking behind them . When they fail, they fail badly .
January 14, 2016 at 7:57 am #456130Ahhh… I get it. Thanks!
I thought maybe you meant a fiberglass pan…
--Steve
January 14, 2016 at 8:00 am #456134Weepholes are what lets the water out of the pan …what allow the subdrain to work. On using liquids….traditional pan systems are designed to stay open …to waterproof over them means the same weepholes that let water out will let it back in , when the drain gets slow …and then it can’t breathe . There is also the issue with water wicking behind them . When they fail, they fail badly .
So it works like the overflow hole on a bathroom sink?
January 14, 2016 at 8:04 am #456136AndyG
ProKind of, more of an underflow. Handles the water that gets past the tile.
January 14, 2016 at 8:10 am #456141I’m really bad about taking pictures but here are a couple. One is recent and you guys have seen before and the others are from years back.
January 14, 2016 at 8:11 am #456154@overanalyze man Andrew, that’s good to know about that new products you will be using, pretty impressive that it held together,
@AndyG thanks for the great information, I have only helped a friend who is a plumber by trade, make a complete shower,
@CrpntrFeak wow, nice tile work,January 14, 2016 at 9:16 am #456174This is the spot to ask questions and show off your work.
Here is a couple showers I have done.
I like the look @overanalyze.
My first bathroom reno in my current home (16yrs ago) I used just green drywall.
Tore that bathroom apart last rear and not one sign of wet/mold anywhere. Guess my tile work was spot on. 🙂
The new reno, I used Hardy Backer Board. it was a toss up between that and Kerdi.
“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingJanuary 14, 2016 at 11:38 am #456236Doobie
ModeratorSo what’s the general rule with large and small tiles insofar as the size of a room or such?
BTW, an earlier long winded post I made last nite might have been missed as it was thought to be spam upon posting and Jim had to unpry it to get it up. Just came up this morning. I did have some questions and some discussion I wanted to hear from others on.
http://bethepro.com/forums/topic/tile-showers-and-tub-surrounds/#post-455928
January 14, 2016 at 11:41 am #456239Good thread, all. I will be following, lurking, if you will, and learning a lot.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.January 14, 2016 at 11:44 am #456241AndyG
ProIf you can’t get 3 tiles across a wall or floor, you need to consider scaling it down in my opinion . Small tiles require flat walls and very consistent dimensions of build, to avoid noticeable tapered cuts .
January 14, 2016 at 11:53 am #456246Doobie
ModeratorIf you can’t get 3 tiles across a wall or floor, you need to consider scaling it down in my opinion . Small tiles require flat walls and very consistent dimensions of build, to avoid noticeable tapered cuts .
Three full tile sizes? Or simply having such as a full and two part tiles abutting is good enough with the partils being close to 50% there width.
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