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Some of those did need permits.
We can build up 120sq.ft. with out a permit if it cost under 1,000$ really can’t hard to do. Then we have to keep the 5′ setback rules.
Five feet eh! Here, to prop line/fence, it’s 2 feet.
3 feet in our area , but it can change from town to town.
Well there is such thing as eaves.
I get the thought process though and I could see that happening I probably have it as well.
I was actually thinking of doing a bottom band of one by with drip edge to protect the siding.
A couple of pieces of boral 4 trim won’t break the budget.
Having seen the Boral trim at some building shows, I am impressed with it. I have not used it on a project yet, but would like to try it.
Yes, the eves will help deflect water away, but with any wind, it runs down the siding and ends up at the base of the wall.
What was the deal with the blocks?
Mortar down and epoxy dowels like a typical mudsill?
Working Pro since 1993
Tom M
So I started this, the contractor who did the slab didnt square the footprint or make an effort to level the form unless he straight edges were not straight and used a 2 ft level…….prick
So Now I shim and plane. Another value to a mortared block curb would be some surface correction ability.
Next time I get a shed inquiry I will note all of these scenarios.
Working Pro since 1993
Tom M
So I started this, the contractor who did the slab didnt square the footprint or make an effort to level the form unless he straight edges were not straight and used a 2 ft level…….prick
So Now I shim and plane. Another value to a mortared block curb would be some surface correction ability.
Next time I get a shed inquiry I will note all of these scenarios.
Oh joy. Really hate following behind incompetent people.
Ron
A Working Pro since 1994!
Member since March 26, 2014.
If it was in plain I would consider building square rather than leveling everything but it’s 3/4 of an inch out and all over the place. The only other way to do it is to level the corners and cut everything one by one with the string.
So I’m going to have to put some work into planning down the sill plate and I need to buy a new planner in the process -mine is shot.
Working Pro since 1993
Tom M
Anchor your PT sill plate. Frame all 4 walls on the ground. Set the walls on the plate and shim bottom plates of all the walls to level across the top ?????
Yeah not worth it. I thought about that.
I ultimately anchored and glued 4×4’s that I planed down. Shot a laser around then chaulked lines end to end on each side of the timbers.
Took half a day but I’m happy I did it. Things go smoother from there.
Working Pro since 1993
Tom M
So since I picked your brains I wanted to follow up with the outcome.
I did build it to the 12 x 12 for material efficiency and explained to the owner the possibility of water creep leaving the perimeter.
For now it seems to be working fine.
Given the price limitations on it He has to be happy
Working Pro since 1993
Tom M
Oh because we didnt special order 10ft sheets I needed the break using the locally available 8 footers
Working Pro since 1993
Tom M
Nice looking shed. Concrete floor is awesome.
But I’m just not sure about that footing detail.
Did you use sill seal, or Sidewinder-type caulk on your plate at least?
Goin' Down In Flames........
LP Corp has some really good products. Back in the day when I was building sheds we used Roseburg T111 that had several layers of plywood. But the LP products are of very high quality with amazing warranties to back them up.
I have been in construction since I was around 13 years of age. First, I installed shingles on storage sheds and garages for a family business I was involved with at the time. Then I was involved in building one, two and three car prefab garages.
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