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Shop work table update

This topic contains 32 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by  wbembrid 2 months ago.

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  • #679272

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    Hi everyone, I am going to be working on reworking the configuration of my shop work table over the next little while, and I thought I’d share the process with you. (thanks for the suggestion @boschmanbrian)

    About eight years ago I started getting into woodworking and had nothing. Just an old NiCad Ryobi drill my dad had given me when my wife and I and our one year old moved into our first rental house. But it had a small detached garage, and so I started buying some tools. But I needed a work table, so I tried my hand designing the biggest surface I could that would work in the space. I bought a miter saw, and wanted it to be a part of the table, so I made a primitive flip top type set up so I could utilize the whole surface when I didn’t need the saw.

    That was about six years ago and over the years I’ve set it up as the out feed table for my gts1031, added electrical circuits for outlets and the switch that controls my shop vac, and various clamping capabilities. I’ve tried lots of different things, and the surface is a little battle scarred, but it still has a lot of use left in it.

    I’ve been thinking about changing things up again though, as my current shop orientation leaves a little to be desired, and I have no space for adding any new tools (I’d love to add a real lathe, a drill press, a jointer, maybe an actual dust extractor…probably other things too, lol) so the other day I decided that, since I no longer use the miter saw in that flip top area anyway (traded up when I got the 10″ Bosch Glide and put it on it’s own stand) I might be able to cut out that area, and house my gts1031 there instead. An added bonus would be that I’ll be able to use the table saw fence, along with some sort of auxiliary fence and attachment jig, for the router which would be a HUGE improvement over my current set up – a piece of hardwood 2×2 with a screw through one end that pivots around the insert/ bit area and clamps to the edge of the table wherever I need it.

    All this is going to take some time and effort, so I’ll be going slow and steady as I have the time. I know for sure I’ll be rerouting all the wiring that was previously under the table, as well as building some shelving for better storage underneath too.

    For now here’s a couple pictures of what it was like when I first built it eight years ago. I hope you all enjoy the process…I know I will!

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679275

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    Here are a few more pictures of how it has been set up over the years. I’ve had it length wise for most of the last four years, but recently I reoriented it across the width of my shop, and that’s how it will have to be for the table saw and router table to function how I want them to from here on. It’s not 100% ideal – I don’t like that I’ll be pushing stock through the table saw from the back of the shop to the front, but until I scrap this table completely and start over, I think this is the best set up for what I have. And I still have close to 8′ of space in front of the blade, which should be completely adequate for my needs. Anything that big or bigger I will likely be cutting down with my glide or my cordless saw and track first anyway.

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679279

    Boschmanbrian
    Pro
    Montreal , QC, Canada

    @cmeyer25 great thread, thanks Charlie.
    I have been looking at tons of YouTube videos on the both Bosch table saws,
    Trying to figure something out, I don’t have a huge workshop /garage either, so I wanted something like what you are thinking about.
    And the fact I can pull it off and carry it to a work site if needed.

    #679280

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @cmeyer25 great thread, thanks Charlie.
    I have been looking at tons of YouTube videos on the both Bosch table saws,
    Trying to figure something out, I don’t have a huge workshop /garage either, so I wanted something like what you are thinking about.
    And the fact I can pull it off and carry it to a work site if needed.

    Yeah, I’ve loved the portability of it – I’ve taken it down to Seattle a few times to help with projects with my in-laws. It packs up so nicely with everything you need stored right there on it.

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679299

    smallerstick
    Pro
    Listowel, ON

    #cmeyer25 Looks like a very practical setup, Charlie. you should have plenty of space for working around the table that way.

    https://www.instagram.com/woodiworkshop/

    #679301

    Boschmanbrian
    Pro
    Montreal , QC, Canada

    @cmeyer25 great thread, thanks Charlie.
    I have been looking at tons of YouTube videos on the both Bosch table saws,
    Trying to figure something out, I don’t have a huge workshop /garage either, so I wanted something like what you are thinking about.
    And the fact I can pull it off and carry it to a work site if needed.

    Yeah, I’ve loved the portability of it – I’ve taken it down to Seattle a few times to help with projects with my in-laws. It packs up so nicely with everything you need stored right there on it.

    Nice, did you have the stand for it, or just use any sort of table to support it on.
    Did you make a zero clearance plate for the blade?

    #679302

    Sorpa
    Pro
    Pierrefonds, Qc

    Nice set up for the miter saw.
    When you bring it up, can you level it with the rest of the table?

    #679303

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @smallerstick that was my plan, and it’s worked pretty well so far. The table is cut down from a full 4×8 sheet to something closer to 32×80

    @boschmanbrian nope, I’ve never had a stand for it – that’d be nice but only for those rare occasions I take it out of the shop. But when I need to, I just put it on the ground and make it work. It’s not he best, but it works ok.

    @sorpa if you look at the second picture, when it’s set up that way, the cutting surface was level with the surrounding surface. I made a second level of supports so that I could flip and lower the piece the saw was mounted on and it all lined up.

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679347

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @boschmanbrian – sorry i didn’t see your other question about the zero clearance plate. In case you’re still wondering I did make a kind of one when I first wanted to use a zero clearance plate, but it needed something to hold it down and I didn’t have the rift material. I used some sort of cardboard/ pressboard stuff and t was really sketchy. I would only use it if I could have the fence over it to be sure it wouldn’t fly out at me. Eventually I just bought the factory made one off Amazon or maybe CPO… and it’s been ok. It slopes toward the blade and has a bit of spring to it, so I’m not exactly thrilled with it, but I didn’t realize that was happening until just recently when I got my woodpecker squared and started trying to true up the blade. And the plate that comes with the saw isn’t all that great either. It’s really easy to bend or distort. But maybe that’s just after seven years of wear and tear. I have put it through a lot 🙂

    I should probably try making another zero clearance plate out of better material now that I have the screws it would take…I might get a better result with something wood instead of plastic. But that’ll have to wait till after this project – one thing at a time, right?

    I’m really looking forward to getting back to it tomorrow morning. I’ll be moving wires around and then starting to build the supports for the table saw…wish me luck!

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679385

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Hi everyone, I am going to be working on reworking the configuration of my shop work table

    Looking forward to following along. Looks like a nice project.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #679426

    Boschmanbrian
    Pro
    Montreal , QC, Canada

    @cmeyer25 thanks for the info Charlie, I wonder if they both use the same plate, the GTS 1031 and the 4100-09 table saws,
    I’ll have to check that out.
    Looking forward to seeing more on your work bench

    #679427

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @boschmanbrian I almost bought the wrong one because of that – they don’t use the same size throat plate.

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679430

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    More progress this morning – I got my table saw in place and at just the right height so that I have about 1/64-1/32” drop off the saw to the surrounding table. I’ll call that good enough.

    I was going to start on the wiring, but I realized I would likely use the table to stand on to be putting that in place, so I decided to get the middle supporting legs in before I went climbing.

    Good productive morning, but there’s still a ways to go.

    I think eventually I’ll need to carve away a bit of the front on either side of the table so that my fence can slide all the way left and right…that or pull it forward an inch or two. But I’m not sure if I want to have that big of a gap behind the saw for things to fall into.

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679537

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    Spent some time tonight moving the wiring around – it’ll be much more direct now, and I’ll be working to make sure all the outlets and switch(es) on the table are placed as best as I can manage. I need the switch to be accessible from a few different areas since it’ll control the DC and router so that’s what I’ll be working on next.

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679557

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Spent some time tonight moving the wiring around

    It always goes like that once you build something you wish you would of changed this or that. Nice you are making those changes for the improvement.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #679567

    Doobie
    Pro
    Ajax, ON

    I think eventually I’ll need to carve away a bit of the front on either side of the table so that my fence can slide all the way left and right…that or pull it forward an inch or two. But I’m not sure if I want to have that big of a gap behind the saw for things to fall into.

    What about installing a strip of FastCaps Saw Stash along the back where the gap needs to be for the fence to slide Charlie?

    https://www.fastcap.com/product/saw-stache

    Kevin.

    Wannabee pro.

    #679587

    smallerstick
    Pro
    Listowel, ON

    I think eventually I’ll need to carve away a bit of the front on either side of the table so that my fence can slide all the way left and right…that or pull it forward an inch or two. But I’m not sure if I want to have that big of a gap behind the saw for things to fall into.

    I have a gap behind my saw about an inch or 2 and it’s a real PITA. One of the next things that’s going to be changed in my shop. If there is any way to avoid the gap; do it!

    https://www.instagram.com/woodiworkshop/

    #679608

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    I think eventually I’ll need to carve away a bit of the front on either side of the table so that my fence can slide all the way left and right…that or pull it forward an inch or two. But I’m not sure if I want to have that big of a gap behind the saw for things to fall into.

    I have a gap behind my saw about an inch or 2 and it’s a real PITA. One of the next things that’s going to be changed in my shop. If there is any way to avoid the gap; do it!

    That’s what I was thinking too.
    @doobie I’ve had a smallish gap so far and I just don’t want to have to fight with getting small pieces out of it if they fall. I’m packing as much as I can in, around, and under this table, so finding stuff will be a beast. Especially once it’s been used a bit and the sawdust accumulates everywhere.

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679778

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    Progress report for the morning!

    One of the things that had been a frustration to me with this table is that, when I built it, I framed the top by rabbiting 2×4 and wrapping it around the entire circumference. It was plenty strong and gave a nice finished edge to the press board, but it is not much surface to clamp to. I was always wishing I had another inch or two of purchase on the underside for clamping, so this morning I sistered another row of 2×4 along the inside of the entire circumference. Boom! Problem solved! I love easy fixes like that, should have thought of it ages ago – I always have scrap 2x lying around. But with all the stuff packed in under there it would have been such a hassle to get to.

    The other thing I got done his morning was to route and connect the wiring for the switched outlet. This will be to control my shop vac and router (the handles on my mr23 are easy enough, but it’s still so much less effort to flip a switch on the outside of my table than reaching under and fumble with the handles switch) This way I’ll just always leave the handle switch locked on and use the light switch to control operation. Double benefit is that if I want to, it will also turn on the DC with the tool for using my router table. But getting good DC for my router has been an issue for as long as I’ve had it, so that may not be solved that quickly this go around – but it’s progress!

    Charlie
    __________________

    Instagram

    #679786

    smallerstick
    Pro
    Listowel, ON

    Progress report for the morning!

    One of the things that had been a frustration to me with this table is that, when I built it, I framed the top by rabbiting 2×4 and wrapping it around the entire circumference. It was plenty strong and gave a nice finished edge to the press board, but it is not much surface to clamp to. I was always wishing I had another inch or two of purchase on the underside for clamping, so this morning I sistered another row of 2×4 along the inside of the entire circumference. Boom! Problem solved! I love easy fixes like that, should have thought of it ages ago – I always have scrap 2x lying around. But with all the stuff packed in under there it would have been such a hassle to get to.

    The other thing I got done his morning was to route and connect the wiring for the switched outlet. This will be to control my shop vac and router (the handles on my mr23 are easy enough, but it’s still so much less effort to flip a switch on the outside of my table than reaching under and fumble with the handles switch) This way I’ll just always leave the handle switch locked on and use the light switch to control operation. Double benefit is that if I want to, it will also turn on the DC with the tool for using my router table. But getting good DC for my router has been an issue for as long as I’ve had it, so that may not be solved that quickly this go around – but it’s progress!

    Good solution to the clamping issue.

    I used a switch that turned on both the router and the shop vac for a number of years and really liked the setup. Made life easy for a long time.

    https://www.instagram.com/woodiworkshop/

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