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shop built Jigs and templates

Viewing 20 posts - 101 through 120 (of 140 total)
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  • #402193
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Smart work there Andrew.

    #402208
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    @OA Nice jig for the toe vents. We not have those vents over here.

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #402277
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Andrew, very nice jig you made. Nice custom touch you can add to future work when needed.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #402295
    RonW
    Moderator
    Holladay, Tn

    Great Idea on the jig for the toe kick vent Andrew. It will save a bunch of time out on the job. And that’s never a bad thing.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #402307
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    We are doing our HVAC vents in toe kicks routing grooves instead of using a metal grate. I have posted pics of a few. After seeing @asevereid do his horizontal I knew that is how we would start doing ours. I have always done the layout on site and made a quick, rough jig to complete the task.

    I had some time today and decided it was time to make a permanent jig to do this. I wanted something simple, portable, and fool proof. All of our toe kicks are 1/4″ ply that get nailed/glued over the cabinet’s rough toe after installation.

    I had some 3/4 melamine scraps so that is what I used for the base. I made it 18″x30″. Next we had some 1/4 mdf that I used to build up the edges leaving a 4″ space for the toe kick material.

    I used my new Bosch router with plunge base as the reference size for sizing the guide. I use a 1/4″ bit when I do this and put the grooves on 1/2″ centers. I did some careful layout and made the guide to accomodate accordingly.

    Once the guide was complete I had to come up with a way to move it in 1/2″ increments simply. I ended up drilling 5mm holes in four spots through the guide into the base. Then I used 5mm shelf pins to hold it in place. After those were drilled I laid out the rest of the holes in 1/2″ increments. For our vent routing I split a 2×12 into two sections. I set up the guide to do one half of the vent, moving it each step, and then move it over to the next side and repeat the steps.

    It was taking me around 45-60 minutes to layout, fabricate the site jig, and route the toekick. It took me about an hour to make this permanent jig and 5 minutes to route the toe so this will definitely save serious time when doing these from now on.

    Definitely a time saver, Andrew, well worth the hour to fabricate, for sure. I like the shelf pins to move the top guide.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #538259
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    Well yesterday i put together a coping sled for the router. I am going to order the toggle clamps.(they want $12ea locally) I still want to knock off the corners and do some sanding. I cut some miter slot runners not sure If i want to go that route or just use it against the fence.

    #538275
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    Well yesterday i put together a coping sled for the router. I am going to order the toggle clamps.(they want $12ea locally) I still want to knock off the corners and do some sanding. I cut some miter slot runners not sure If i want to go that route or just use it against the fence.

    Looks nice Eric! What did you use for the base…3/4 ply?

    I tried to make something similar a while back and failed (1/2 ply base). When I clamped the work piece down with the toggles it made the base distort because of the pressure.

    What are you planning to cut with the jig? Will your router bits extend high enough to cut properly?

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #538298
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    base is 1/4 MDF base melamine. What i was reading is that some of the commercial jig have issues with them staying flat. Main hope is to use this for cabinet door rails. I figure its worth trying a home build unit before i drop $120 on a commercial model

    #538303

    base is 1/4 MDF base melamine. What i was reading is that some of the commercial jig have issues with them staying flat. Main hope is to use this for cabinet door rails. I figure its worth trying a home build unit before i drop $120 on a commercial model

    I would think the miter slot runners and a backer board would make the sled more versatile. I have seen some commercial sleds with a raised piece of acrylic (which you can see through) that would run along a fence. Otherwise would you not be cutting the profile on the sled at the same time?

    #538305
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Well yesterday i put together a coping sled for the router.

    Daniel, looks nice. Hopefully it will work for what you want to use it for

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #538321
    MTRoads
    Pro
    Near Glacier National Park, MT

    Well yesterday i put together a coping sled for the router. I am going to order the toggle clamps.(they want $12ea locally) I still want to knock off the corners and do some sanding. I cut some miter slot runners not sure If i want to go that route or just use it against the fence.

    Daniel,
    Great looking jig – should serve you well. I like the handles you put on it, should give you a lot of control over the piece being routed.
    I would personally just register off the fence.

    Stan
    From the Northwest corner of Montana.

    #538336
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    base is 1/4 MDF base melamine. What i was reading is that some of the commercial jig have issues with them staying flat. Main hope is to use this for cabinet door rails. I figure its worth trying a home build unit before i drop $120 on a commercial model

    I would think the miter slot runners and a backer board would make the sled more versatile. I have seen some commercial sleds with a raised piece of acrylic (which you can see through) that would run along a fence. Otherwise would you not be cutting the profile on the sled at the same time?

    Yes, as it is it will cut through the sled as well. I did cut some miter slot glide to add to it but i need to wait until my plate arrives so I cen set the distance. The vertical section of baltic birch is face screwed as a backer so it can be flipped and replaced as needed.

    So yes now to decide, do i let it cut through the slide “maybe not such an issue because i only have one set of door bits. Or hold the sled away from the bit and just extend the sacrificial backer.

    #538458
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    Well added another to the lineup. A thin rip jig. I want to add a rule of some kind yet so I dont have to measure each time. Maybe once my next tape breaks ill use a section. This along with some spark plus feeler gauges and I can check alignment of the blade and the fence

    Attachments:
    #538465
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    Well added another to the lineup. A thin rip jig. I want to add a rule of some kind yet so I dont have to measure each time. Maybe once my next tape breaks ill use a section. This along with some spark plus feeler gauges and I can check alignment of the blade and the fence

    Another good one Eric! Why the screw though?

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #538473
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    Well added another to the lineup. A thin rip jig. I want to add a rule of some kind yet so I dont have to measure each time. Maybe once my next tape breaks ill use a section. This along with some spark plus feeler gauges and I can check alignment of the blade and the fence

    Another good one Eric! Why the screw though?

    <—- Dan

    I went with the screw so I can re-zero it with blade changes

    #538486

    Well added another to the lineup. A thin rip jig

    I really like that design. Hope you don’t mind if I copy it. Thanks for sharing.

    #538501
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    Well yesterday i put together a coping sled for the router. I am going to order the toggle clamps.(they want $12ea locally) I still want to knock off the corners and do some sanding. I cut some miter slot runners not sure If i want to go that route or just use it against the fence.

    Looks like a very serviceable jig, Daniel. Good idea having a replaceable backer.

    Well added another to the lineup. A thin rip jig. I want to add a rule of some kind yet so I dont have to measure each time. Maybe once my next tape breaks ill use a section. This along with some spark plus feeler gauges and I can check alignment of the blade and the fence

    You have been busy. I like the screw at the end; that will give a positive stop for greater repeatability.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #538551
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    The thin rip jig is nice. It’s a lot better than having the thin part near the fence.

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #538608
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Well added another to the lineup. A thin rip jig. I want to add a rule of some kind yet so I dont have to measure each time. Maybe once my next tape breaks ill use a section. This along with some spark plus feeler gauges and I can check alignment of the blade and the fence

    That’s interesting. I may just use that. Thanks for posting Daniel! 🙂

    #538631
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Well added another to the lineup. A thin rip jig.

    Nice idea Daniel. They make stick on tapes for just such an application.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

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