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I saved the link , great information . I believe I can come up with some graphite rods . My wife is a jeweler
Platinum is a great metal if you can afford it .
ThanksMy name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
I saved the link , great information . I believe I can come up with some graphite rods . My wife is a jeweler
Platinum is a great metal if you can afford it .
Thanks
@gtaylor,
No problem..Do you have a specific formula? Washing Soda to water ratio?
I need to start de-rusting some auto parts and will be using a 125L Rubbermaid bin.
I also have a few jugs of Molasses to try that method of rust removal.“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it dies with you”
— Glenn BottingNo I don’t , just gleaning info off you tube . should start building one next week .
The tank im using is just a 25 gallon car wash detergent drum . When finished will try to post some pictures of parts before an after .My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
I liked the video on rust treatment will be doing that to my old craftsman joiner .
As mentioned there’s plenty of info on the web all I did was tweak it some .
I posted some info on the topic of removing rust by electrolysis. Made a 5 gallon Electrolisis tank but I wanted to do larger items . I made this larger tank in 30 min an it worked better than the 5 gal .
I’m working on my 1977 ford bronco an it needed a trailer hitch . In my yard I found an old rusty Draw tight hitch that had been in dirt for 18 years . Heavily rusted an pitted . Tried to sand blast after 5 min it was going no where .
So I looked around in my yard an found a 25 gal plastic drum an light gauge expanded metal .
So all I did was cut the top off the drum an rolled the expanded metal to fit inside just below top of drum .The bare steel is the anode . DO NOT use galvanized or stainless in any of this process this will produce poison gas .
Next used washing soda added to water . 1 heaping tablespoon per gallon . I degreaser my hitch with super clean then placed in tank . Using an old 10 amp charger . I connected the positive to my expanded metal an negative to hitch . Ran the charger on 12 volt but kept kicking off . So I set it to 6 volt an it worked great . 12 hours later took it out of tank
An rinsed it an lightly hit pitted areas with a steel brush . Here’s a few pictures of process will add completed job later .My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
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Gerald makes a good point in his entry above, that being one can adapt the apparatus of the electrolysis process to meet one’s needs. I have made tanks in 1qt rectangular Tupperware storage boxes, huge plastic utility tubs and containers of every size in between.
It seems to be more and more difficult to find standard car battery chargers anymore, all of the new models being the “automatic” charge-sensing units. Has anyone tried the process using the automatic chargers, and if so, what were the results?
The cause of the standard charger shutting off due to a resistance overload can be remedied in one of two ways: add greater distance between the anode and the cathode, and/or reduce the amount of washing soda in the cleaning solution. The washing soda provides only a fractional amount of “cleaning” function, the addition of the stuff having the primary role of adding electrolytes to the solution (in fact the Electrolysis process can be performed with satisfactory results using nothing but H2O). If you can properly adjust the two variables you can use a higher voltage, providing a faster result.
I have looked into the danger of creating noxious gasses in the Electrolysis process through the means of using galvanized or stainless steel as a cathode. My research (based upon professional metal plating firms) shows that such gasses are produced in such minimal amounts in our common at-home setups that they are not hazardous. This is similar to the non-dangerous amount of Hydrogen which our tanks emit. Ventilation in the area where the Electrolysis is being performed should already be the common practice by users.
As regards the above, users of the Electrolysis process (myself included) achieve excellent results when cleaning flat objects using a standard stainless steel mixing bowl. Electrolysis is a line-of-sight process, so if the flat anode is laid on the bottom of a tank and a semi-submerged stainless steel bowl anode is placed floating on top of the solution surface, the electrons flow out in a 180-degree radius. The stainless metal in any form doesn’t corrode like common steel will, and removal of surface sludge is a breeze.
I can find galvanized sheet/corrugated panel metal for a very low price at the local scrapyard. I cut a sheet of the size needed for my tank, cutting out the corners so that the metal will fold into a 5-sided (open top) box. I place the “box” as a liner for my container and hang the work down into the solution from a rod. This process allows an almost complete 360-degree exposure between anode and cathode. The galvanized metal is easily cleaned of sludge after each use, and if I dry the material promptly I will get four or five uses out of the sheet before it is corroded to an unusable degree.
I read recently that steel manufacturers will apply a Lye solution to their products if the materials will be stored for a period of theme. This Lye “dip” greatly slows development of corrosion to the steel, even if exposed to the outdoor elements. I tried the dipping method using a solution of H2O and Lye at a ratio of one gallon to one Tablespoon, respectively, with minimal protective results. I then used the same solution in the Electrolysis process with far better results. I found that the surface of my steel was completely stabilized, with any corrosion left in pits or inaccessible places being converted to a black substance, much like metal to which a rust-stabilizer has been applied. No flash-rust appeared, and rust has been held at bay for over the past three months.
Finally (about time), there are a good number of chemicals available to us in hardware and grocery stores via the contents in products. A common example being tree-root killer (for waste water pipes) containing pure copper sulfate as its only ingredient. A good way to hunt for like products at a price far less than online sources and without the waiting period is to use Google and then research of a manufacturers “MSDS” sheets. For instance, I was recently looking to see if there was a cheap and readily available source of a zinc-containing product needed for a plating recipe. I did an online search for “products containing (ingredient name)”. Up popped information on a commercial powdered roof-moss killer. I then searched “(Product brand/name) MSDS”. The MSDS is an information form required to be published for almost all commercial chemical-containing products, and lists what do do if the product should spill, be involved in a fire or be ingested. The form provides a list of ingredients of the product as well, including the percentage of the ingredient in the total formula. Sure enough, there was the chemical I needed, in a 99% ratio to inert ingredients.
I hope that some of this boring and possibly redundant information is useful to at least one of you,
Sincerely,
Eamon
I liked the video on rust treatment will be doing that to my old craftsman joiner .
As mentioned there’s plenty of info on the web all I did was tweak it some .
I posted some info on the topic of removing rust by electrolysis. Made a 5 gallon Electrolisis tank but I wanted to do larger items . I made this larger tank in 30 min an it worked better than the 5 gal .
I’m working on my 1977 ford bronco an it needed a trailer hitch . In my yard I found an old rusty Draw tight hitch that had been in dirt for 18 years . Heavily rusted an pitted . Tried to sand blast after 5 min it was going no where .
So I looked around in my yard an found a 25 gal plastic drum an light gauge expanded metal .
So all I did was cut the top off the drum an rolled the expanded metal to fit inside just below top of drum .The bare steel is the anode . DO NOT use galvanized or stainless in any of this process this will produce poison gas .
Next used washing soda added to water . 1 heaping tablespoon per gallon . I degreaser my hitch with super clean then placed in tank . Using an old 10 amp charger . I connected the positive to my expanded metal an negative to hitch . Ran the charger on 12 volt but kept kicking off . So I set it to 6 volt an it worked great . 12 hours later took it out of tank
An rinsed it an lightly hit pitted areas with a steel brush . Here’s a few pictures of process will add completed job later .
Gerald,
Thanks for the update, I have a drum similar to yours that I will be using for rust removal.
I know the more surface area for the sacrificial anode is good but I always thought that it should be thicker than just sheet metal?“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it dies with you”
— Glenn BottingThanks Eamon you explained much of my trial an error Approach . I was wondering why my larger tank was working better than the 5 gallon . I thought the more wash soda the better . But used less on the large tank an worked great . Also the best anode I used in the large tank was galvanized metal lath .
Wraped easily in tank also easily replaced as needed . I performed this work outside so just take all precautions regarding fumes . Also do your own research concerning safety . I watch you tube a lot an many people post things that are not safe . It was kinda funny I saw a guy on YouTube showing how easy it is to pop your neck . He was cross eyed could have done nerve damage ! Lol
Also I have an old dedicated 6 volt 12 amp Charger I’m going to try .
Also what’s cool you can take a rusty crescent that ha sent moved in years . Put it in a bath an restore the functionality.
Shown is my tank with the lath an finished hitch .
Thanks again for the clear information .My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
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I liked the video on rust treatment will be doing that to my old craftsman joiner .
As mentioned there’s plenty of info on the web all I did was tweak it some .
I posted some info on the topic of removing rust by electrolysis. Made a 5 gallon Electrolisis tank but I wanted to do larger items . I made this larger tank in 30 min an it worked better than the 5 gal .
I’m working on my 1977 ford bronco an it needed a trailer hitch . In my yard I found an old rusty Draw tight hitch that had been in dirt for 18 years . Heavily rusted an pitted . Tried to sand blast after 5 min it was going no where .
So I looked around in my yard an found a 25 gal plastic drum an light gauge expanded metal .
So all I did was cut the top off the drum an rolled the expanded metal to fit inside just below top of drum .The bare steel is the anode . DO NOT use galvanized or stainless in any of this process this will produce poison gas .
Next used washing soda added to water . 1 heaping tablespoon per gallon . I degreaser my hitch with super clean then placed in tank . Using an old 10 amp charger . I connected the positive to my expanded metal an negative to hitch . Ran the charger on 12 volt but kept kicking off . So I set it to 6 volt an it worked great . 12 hours later took it out of tank
An rinsed it an lightly hit pitted areas with a steel brush . Here’s a few pictures of process will add completed job later .
Gerald,
Thanks for the update, I have a drum similar to yours that I will be using for rust removal.
I know the more surface area for the sacrificial anode is good but I always thought that it should be thicker than just sheet metal?
Thanks frank you could be right on the thicker anode .
I used rebar around the inside my first 5 gallon tank .My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
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gtaylor that hitch came out nice. How long was it in the tank?
Bill thanks , I left it in probally longer than necessary about 12 hrs
My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
gtaylor that hitch came out nice. How long was it in the tank?
Bill thanks , I left it in probally longer than necessary about 12 hrs
Electrolysis is way faster than just using chemicals then. I would have had to leave that hitch in my feed molasses tank for 2 weeks or longer. The results are the same it is just electrolysis is way faster.
Automotive Pro
Fayetteville, NCgtaylor that hitch came out nice. How long was it in the tank?
Bill thanks , I left it in probally longer than necessary about 12 hrs
Electrolysis is way faster than just using chemicals then. I would have had to leave that hitch in my feed molasses tank for 2 weeks or longer. The results are the same it is just electrolysis is way faster.
Will be trying molasses in on something I can’t dip . Thanks
My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
Just another video of my electrolysis tank removing rust an restoring functionality of bolts .
This was a cast iron cart in the ground with all wood rotted off .My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
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Just another video of my electrolysis tank removing rust an restoring functionality of bolts .
This was a cast iron cart in the ground with all wood rotted off .My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
@gtaylor,
Nice video, ThanXhow long did you leave it in the electrolysis tank?
“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it dies with you”
— Glenn BottingThanks didn’t give to much info on the video .
There’s already plenty of details on YouTube .
I left it in 10 hrs . Since I couldn’t get the wheel an axle all at once I flipped it over after 10 !. Hrs .
The wheels an hard ware I just stacked them in the wheel in the bottom of tank.My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
Just another video of my electrolysis tank removing rust an restoring functionality of bolts .
This was a cast iron cart in the ground with all wood rotted off .Thank you for sharing the videos. Very nice results. Electrolysis is sure faster than just using chemicals.
Automotive Pro
Fayetteville, NCgreat video, That is an interesting approach. I guess @58chev, this is what you’d rather use than your conventional approach to cleaning up your parts.
great video, That is an interesting approach. I guess @58chev, this is what you’d rather use than your conventional approach to cleaning up your parts.
The approach just depends on how heavily the item is rusted . Light rust will glass bead .
When there’s heavy rust deep pits . It would have taken a serious sandblaster equipment to even get close to this electrolysis . Later will post finished cart with granite top and bottom that will go in my wife’s store .My name is Gerald Taylor of Taylor made granite furnishings LLC . .
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