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Refrig Cabinet support

This topic contains 7 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  kurt@welkerhomes.com 2 months, 3 weeks ago.

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • #711686

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    Looking for options supporting a refrigerator cabinet with face frames on a 3/4 in side panel.

    When the cabinet construction adds a rail to the side panels that trim the refrigerator its easy peasy but when you have face frames going attaching to a 3/4 ” panel yo have to be careful.

    I have used small brackets under and over but they are not going to pull a bowed panel or support much. A well built cabinet can hang on its own well shimmed but times you need more.

    With wood finish cabinets a solid trim nail from the 3/4 side will do the job and vanish with filler but with painted cabinets its not a great idea so Im looking for clever solutions

    Share a technique.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #711690

    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Pro
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    We mostly use custom cabinets and in that case, they fasten prior to painting or even build it in as the side panel of the cabinet.

    Since you are installing I would guess you are talking about a box cabinet. I would thing about a dowell set 5/8″ into the side panel and into the cabinet. It would be invisible in that application and give a good hold.

    #711744

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I bet the domino would be solid too.

    Unfortunately I dont have either a domino tool or a decent dowel jig and biscuits dont have the same grip.

    Thanks Kurt

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #711745

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I see horrible freight has a jig well reviewed, I will investigate

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #711762

    RonW
    Pro
    Holladay, Tn

    I always attach the face frame to a cabinet before finishing. Nail holes or even Kreg hols can be filled, sanded and then painted or stained.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #711962

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    So ultimately I went with Kurt’s suggestion to dowel.

    HB had a set up that cost under $20. Very comfy for edges of the rails but scary on flats.

    The brad point bit is a risk for punching through and you can’t use the jig on the flats so the stop collar is of no use.

    I made test pieces first the used the test piece as a guide clamped to the flat. I used scrap wood on the bit itself to fill the space on the bit between the ideal depth and the stop collar.

    I’m happy with the outcome.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #711980

    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I’m happy with the outcome.

    I’m glad it worked out well for you.

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #712021

    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Pro
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    So ultimately I went with Kurt’s suggestion to dowel.

    HB had a set up that cost under $20. Very comfy for edges of the rails but scary on flats.

    The brad point bit is a risk for punching through and you can’t use the jig on the flats so the stop collar is of no use.

    I made test pieces first the used the test piece as a guide clamped to the flat. I used scrap wood on the bit itself to fill the space on the bit between the ideal depth and the stop collar.

    I’m happy with the outcome.

    Glad that worked for you, I can imagine it is a little dicey as it is not the typical dowel setup for a dowel jig. I see my cabinet installers do it but they are able to have the holes drilled on the CNC in their shop when building the units.

    As long as the finished product turns out well, sometimes the path is not as important.

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