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pvc adhesive and column wraps

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  • #368384
    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I need to wrap a doug fir 4×4 column its non treated I was a little concerned about the thing being able to breathe.

    Any thoughts?

    I also of course need to glue it my pieces and am looking for a good adhesive. I have never like or trusted the bond of pvc glue like AZEK I usually rely on SS nails/pins. My supplier has acrylic adhesive that appears to be fantastically strong on the display but I tried it on a small piece on the job and I was able to pull it apart with ease.

    Whats have you guys found to work well?

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #368393
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    Honestly, trim head screws. PVC moves too much for anything less,IMO.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #368420
    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Moderator
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    I did some PVC column wraps a couple years ago. All PVC cement and 18 GA pin and trim screws. They have held up very well. I will post photo’s if I can find them.

    #368455
    redwood
    Pro

    I’ve also done the same as Kurt, it’s worked well. There are also PVC column sets that use a lock joint on the corners.

    http://versatex.com/versawrap

    I hope your columns are stabilized, from a moisture standpoint.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #368490
    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    These were the Kleer version with lock miters and the acrylic glue I tested a scrap on held nothing.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #368539
    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Moderator
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    Here is a before and after of the wraps I did.

    #368595

    The post kits are the way to go . The move a bit less than building your own . Plus it’s a labor savor . No matter what glue you use , nail or screw it moves . At the base I keep a gap for air movement .

    Always willing to learn .

    #368687
    woodman_412
    Moderator

    I have to trim out the exterior of the new windows on the reno I’m doing with PVC trim. I’m going to give this stuff a try on the mitres and see how it works. My plan is to mitre 4 pieces and glue them together and install them around the window as one unit. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

    http://www.trimtight.com/

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #368690
    jaydee
    Pro
    Spencer, Ma., happy 2015

    Pin and screw it… I don’t like to glue

    #368741
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I have to trim out the exterior of the new windows on the reno I’m doing with PVC trim. I’m going to give this stuff a try on the mitres and see how it works. My plan is to mitre 4 pieces and glue them together and install them around the window as one unit. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

    http://www.trimtight.com/

    That’s risky IMO Dan. PVC moves more than regular lumber with changes in weather. I’d hide screws in the miters if you are able to. I haven’t tried it with PVC trim, but pocket holes and screws are great on the back side of mitered trim work.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #368772
    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    Yeah window frames I pocket screw rails to styles, plus glue.

    I tried Christy’s Red Hot on some railing kits that worked okay but this and the azek or acrylic stuff Im not liking.

    The plan is not to just wrap the column but to double up the bottom and pack it out for trim like a newel maybe 42″ high the a ledge and simple wrap above.

    I am still thinking this through but I think I may be better off with furring the post out with wood then applying a single layer of PVC. Im concerned about the layers moving and this way I can get some air inside. Dont have a lot history with these materials.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #368844
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I’ve also done the same as Kurt, it’s worked well. There are also PVC column sets that use a lock joint on the corners.

    I have used the pypon brand wraps with locking corners.

    #368992

    <P>I’ve also done the same as Kurt, it’s worked well. There are also PVC column sets that use a lock joint on the corners.</P>

    <P>I have used the pypon brand wraps with locking corners.</P>

    man thats some nice work , and great looking columns Dirty . (nice circ saw ) 🙂 off topic , what is the spacing between the cement and grass in the first picture ??

    #369005
    woodman_412
    Moderator

    I have to trim out the exterior of the new windows on the reno I’m doing with PVC trim. I’m going to give this stuff a try on the mitres and see how it works. My plan is to mitre 4 pieces and glue them together and install them around the window as one unit. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

    http://www.trimtight.com/

    That’s risky IMO Dan. PVC moves more than regular lumber with changes in weather. I’d hide screws in the miters if you are able to. I haven’t tried it with PVC trim, but pocket holes and screws are great on the back side of mitered trim work.

    Thanks for the tip Jon. Pocket hole screws are a good idea. I wonder if glue in conjunction with pocket hole screws would work well. Or are you saying not to glue at all? The only other time I used PVC trim was on my shop windows and I did butt joints with no glue or screws.

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #369008
    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Moderator
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    I have to trim out the exterior of the new windows on the reno I’m doing with PVC trim. I’m going to give this stuff a try on the mitres and see how it works. My plan is to mitre 4 pieces and glue them together and install them around the window as one unit. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

    http://www.trimtight.com/

    That’s risky IMO Dan. PVC moves more than regular lumber with changes in weather. I’d hide screws in the miters if you are able to. I haven’t tried it with PVC trim, but pocket holes and screws are great on the back side of mitered trim work.

    Thanks for the tip Jon. Pocket hole screws are a good idea. I wonder if glue in conjunction with pocket hole screws would work well. Or are you saying not to glue at all? The only other time I used PVC trim was on my shop windows and I did butt joints with no glue or screws.

    @woodman412 I would fasten with the cortex screws and plugs. They are virtually invisible and hold well.

    #369019
    redwood
    Pro

    I’ll use pocket screws with window and door trim, but not with column wraps. Once again, like kurt, the cortex screws and plugs are the bomb.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #369089
    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Moderator
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    Here are some photo’s of the construction of the columns we did

    #369143
    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    we either use trim tight or white flex 9000 siding caulking as a glue. for small pieces and mitres i use mitro pro 2 part adhesive.. its basically the same as 2p-10 only a different brand name

    heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

    #369272
    woodman_412
    Moderator

    @woodman412 I would fasten with the cortex screws and plugs. They are virtually invisible and hold well.

    Those look really slick Kurt. Thanks for the video. I’ve never seen those before but I’d like to give them a try.

    we either use trim tight or white flex 9000 siding caulking as a glue. for small pieces and mitres i use mitro pro 2 part adhesive.. its basically the same as 2p-10 only a different brand name

    I think I’ll do a test joint and give the trim tight a try along with a pocket hole screw in the back to reinforce it and see how that goes. Do you find the caulking or the trim tight works better for glue Jeff?

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #369464
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    what is the spacing between the cement and grass in the first picture ??

    Good eye, that got graded in so it was good.

    we either use trim tight or white flex 9000 siding caulking as a glue.

    Once that stuff sets up not even you can pull it apart!

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