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Protecting cast iron from rust

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  • #336800
    Dustincoc
    Pro
    Madrid, NY

    I’ve recently come into quite a few tools with cast iron tables. They all had/have quite a bit of rust on them. Now that I’ve spent a bit of time cleaning up a few of them I’m looking for ways to prevent new rust. I haven’t been able to find any past wax and I’m hesitant to use paraffin since I’ve never had luck with it anytime I’ve used it on anything(too flakey.) For the time being I’m giving them a coat of 30weight oil but that will soak into any wood I run through them.

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    #336804

    Not sure if this helps. We cook on cast iron pans. Wife swears that coconut oil is better than any thing she has used in the past to keep pans seasoned and prohibit rust.

    #336809
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    If paste wax isn’t available, just use a carnauba wax paste sold for cars. It’s basically the same thing.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
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    #336824
    ChadM
    Moderator
    Rogers, Ohio

    I use Johnson Paste Wax – Walmart, HD, and a few local grocery stores sell it. Silicone free and it helps wood slide on the tables easier.

    Chad

    A Working Pro since 1993

    Member since 12/07/2013

    #336853
    EthanB
    Pro
    South Kingstown, RI

    Why can’t you find paste wax? I can think of at least 3-4 places that have it in my little area. It’s also called Butcher’s Wax and is found near the Pledge in most stores. You can just order it online too. I have mostly Triwax brand but not for any particular reason.

    #336917
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    I use Johnson Paste Wax – Walmart, HD, and a few local grocery stores sell it. Silicone free and it helps wood slide on the tables easier.

    Out of curiosity why sillcone free? I think the spray I am using has silicon in it. Ive used it for my ts,mitre saw, lathe, basiclly everything.

    #336926
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Dustin lots of options.

    Look into CRC Corrosion Inhibitor Spray. Also look at a product called RPM Rust Preventative Magic. These both work.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #336943
    Toolshead
    Pro
    In the Rice Fields, South TX

    Out of curiosity why sillcone free?

    Even a very small amount of silicone on the wood will cause fisheyes in the finish. When that happens, the only option is to take it back down to wood with a lot of mineral spirits washes in between. Been there.
    The wax, as mentioned, can be a $10 can of car wax from a local discount store. Just read the ingredients. Wipe the oil off with a cloth before applying. There are a couple other threads on this going on. Try searching the forum for ‘rust’ over the last couple of weeks.
    I’ve spent an hour trying to find some pix I have with no luck. Google fisheyes in finish silicone to see what happens.

    #337080
    jstare
    Pro
    Langley, BC

    I have done something similar to what you are talking about with a few of my tools and this is what I do:

    1. Remove all rust, you can use steel wool for this or fine sandpaper. Use WD-40 or something like that to lubricate the paper/steel wool. It reduces scratching and helps release the rust.

    2. After rust is gone, you can use a power sander and to go up in grits if you need to smooth out the surface after the rust is gone.

    3. Use Mineral spirits to remove the residue from the WD-40 and it will also remove any remaing rust.

    4. Coat with something that will seal the metal to prevent rusting, I use T-9 Boeshield. Wax isn’t the best choice because it doesn’t completely seal everything.

    5. After the Boeshield you can use wax on the surface to make things more slippery for working on if you want to. There are also other commercial products like Bostich Glide-coat that work really well. You can go straight to Glide-coat after removing all the rust if humidity isn’t a major issue in your shop. It does have a certain degree of sealing the metal in itself.

    Hope this helps you out, good luck!

    #337084

    Some of my friends swear by the T-9, but it is kind of expensive. I just use wax, but it isn’t the best, I have spots on some of my tables where a patina is developing, so I am going to switch to the T-9 soon.

    #337485

    There are also other commercial products like Bostich Glide-coat that work really well. You can go straight to Glide-coat after removing all the rust if humidity isn’t a major issue in your shop. It does have a certain degree of sealing the metal in itself

    I was going to mention that product myself. It does seal the cast iron up. Here’s a link to the product on the Rockler website: http://www.rockler.com/bostik-glidecote-table-tool-surface-sealant. No expensive at all.

    #337573
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    I was going to mention that product myself. It does seal the cast iron up. Here’s a link to the product on the Rockler website: http://www.rockler.com/bostik-glidecote-table-tool-surface-sealant. No expensive at all.

    Thank you for posting that link. That product looks great. May get a can and try it out.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #337817
    staker
    Pro

    I just use turtle car wax, not the liquid.

    #337913
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    I use topcoat spray from bostik and cover them with a moving blanket when not in use. As long as the blanket doesnt get wet it will keep the humidity moisture off the table

    #337934
    Doobie
    Moderator

    I posted this in another thread recently although I’ve never used it myself, I’ve heard of many who swear by it in the woodworking community over the years.

    http://www.amazon.ca/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B00F0IDDBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432085079&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax

    http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

    #339049
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    I might have to give it a try, would be cheaper than my topkote spray

    #339050

    I posted this in another thread recently although I’ve never used it myself, I’ve heard of many who swear by it in the woodworking community over the years.
    http://www.amazon.ca/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B00F0IDDBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432085079&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax
    http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

    This stuff is not cheap by the way. I use it as a final coat on pens that I make. Never thought to use it on cast iron surfaces. It is almost silky feeling after being applied so I would expect the iron surface will be very slick after application. You cannot build up multiple coats per the instructions. I will have to give it a try.

    #339128
    Doobie
    Moderator

    I posted this in another thread recently although I’ve never used it myself, I’ve heard of many who swear by it in the woodworking community over the years.

    http://www.amazon.ca/Picreator-Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B00F0IDDBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432085079&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax

    http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

    This stuff is not cheap by the way. I use it as a final coat on pens that I make. Never thought to use it on cast iron surfaces. It is almost silky feeling after being applied so I would expect the iron surface will be very slick after application. You cannot build up multiple coats per the instructions. I will have to give it a try.

    Please report back what you experience. I’m still on Topcote.

    #339165
    whitehill
    Pro
    Ottawa, ON

    Better deal on the version Lee Valley sells, catalog # 53Z31.01

    #339167
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Better deal on the version Lee Valley sells, catalog # 53Z31.01

    Interesting! Never noticed it at LV before. Sounds like the same as the Renaissance wax but way cheaper.

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