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New Workshop Construction

Viewing 20 posts - 61 through 80 (of 85 total)
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  • #605392
    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    I think I would put some flashing over the concrete and up on the wall before siding it. I also haven’t seen it done here with concrete hanging out.

    #605403
    Doobie
    Moderator

    I’m also curious about the exterior? I see the extra 1 1/2″ or so of footing around the perimeter of the building?

    I wonder if it’s for styro insulative sheets between the sheathing and the cladding maybe?

    #605405
    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    That would also be a good cure @Doobie . Good thinking!

    #605407

    Maybe strapping or furring strips ? Then the siding? That will bring him over the edge a little or flush,
    Instead of going siding right on the osb? Dunno
    Everyone has their own way.

    #605418
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I’m also curious about the exterior? I see the extra 1 1/2″ or so of footing around the perimeter of the building?

    Looks like it was snapped for 2×6 and 2x4s came instead.

    I see what your mentioning @ronw,
    Once the siding is on, there is no ledge, so to speak. The siding over hangs the bit of slab that sticks out. In the 9 years that my garage has been standing, not one drop of water has found its way in.

    That frame needs to be flush with the slab and the paper and siding should hang over the slab.

    #605447
    WoodsConstruction
    Pro
    Sudbury, ON

    I agree the wall sheeting should be flush with the block.

    Only real reason for it to be back is if it’s for foam to come flush, or a brick ledge.

    #605480

    The initial idea was to brick the walls, to match the house, and so that is why the gap was left. Then, the inspector said that the pad was not sufficient to hold the weight of the brick, so have to change it now to either flashing around the bottom, or, as has been mentioned here, an insulative styrofoam between the sheathing and the siding.

    Beginner’s mistake and should have taken into account the extra weight of the brick………

    Luckily, there are workarounds.

    #605558
    WoodsConstruction
    Pro
    Sudbury, ON

    The initial idea was to brick the walls, to match the house, and so that is why the gap was left. Then, the inspector said that the pad was not sufficient to hold the weight of the brick, so have to change it now to either flashing around the bottom, or, as has been mentioned here, an insulative styrofoam between the sheathing and the siding.

    Beginner’s mistake and should have taken into account the extra weight of the brick………

    Luckily, there are workarounds.

    You must have just poured the garage pad and no footing before the pad?

    Either way what’s the actual measurement of the ledge?

    Could be some other alternatives.

    #605660
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Beginner’s mistake and should have taken into account the extra weight of the brick………

    Luckily, there are workarounds.

    Don’t fret. Happens to everybody. Especially to the Wile E Coyotes we all think we are.

    #605701

    Actually, footings were in place before the pour…….

    Haven’t measured the ledge overhang, but will probably just add flashing and then siding to bring it flush…Still mulling over what my best option is.

    As I mentioned, beginner’s mistake, and one I will learn from for any future projects. Appreciate all the feedback though – its a great help!!!

    The initial idea was to brick the walls, to match the house, and so that is why the gap was left. Then, the inspector said that the pad was not sufficient to hold the weight of the brick, so have to change it now to either flashing around the bottom, or, as has been mentioned here, an insulative styrofoam between the sheathing and the siding.

    Beginner’s mistake and should have taken into account the extra weight of the brick………

    Luckily, there are workarounds.

    You must have just poured the garage pad and no footing before the pad?

    Either way what’s the actual measurement of the ledge?

    Could be some other alternatives.

    #605723
    RonW
    Moderator
    Holladay, Tn

    Actually, footings were in place before the pour…….

    Haven’t measured the ledge overhang, but will probably just add flashing and then siding to bring it flush…Still mulling over what my best option is.

    Depending on the amount of hangover, flashing would be the least I would do. The extra insulation from 1″ foam board might be a good thing too.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #605746

    Cheers @RonW – Will be going with 1″ styrofoam and Tyvek house wrap on the sheathing. Flashing the bottom and concrete, and then add siding to bring it flush. That should give me a nice bit of extra insulation, before I insulate and drywall inside.

    Actually, footings were in place before the pour…….

    Haven’t measured the ledge overhang, but will probably just add flashing and then siding to bring it flush…Still mulling over what my best option is.

    Depending on the amount of hangover, flashing would be the least I would do. The extra insulation from 1″ foam board might be a good thing too.

    #605780
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Will be going with 1″ styrofoam and Tyvek house wrap on the sheathing. Flashing the bottom and concrete, and then add siding to bring it flush. That should give me a nice bit of extra insulation, before I insulate and drywall inside.

    You can’t have too much insulation in a work shop, keeps out the winter cold and the summer heat. The summer heat is what gets me. When it gets hot the shop feels like an oven.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #605786
    WoodsConstruction
    Pro
    Sudbury, ON

    Cheers ronw – Will be going with 1″ styrofoam and Tyvek house wrap on the sheathing. Flashing the bottom and concrete, and then add siding to bring it flush. That should give me a nice bit of extra insulation, before I insulate and drywall inside.

    Actually, footings were in place before the pour…….

    Haven’t measured the ledge overhang, but will probably just add flashing and then siding to bring it flush…Still mulling over what my best option is.

    Depending on the amount of hangover, flashing would be the least I would do. The extra insulation from 1″ foam board might be a good thing too.

    Good call going with the extra insulation on the exterior. It makes a much bigger difference then most people think.

    #605814
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Will be going with 1″ styrofoam and Tyvek house wrap on the sheathing.

    Not sure, but if you have the styro over the ply sheathing, I don’t think you need any housewrap also.

    I could be wrong, but I thought I read that somewhere.

    #605825
    JimDaddyO
    Pro
    Wawa, ON

    Cheers @ronw – Will be going with 1″ styrofoam and Tyvek house wrap on the sheathing. Flashing the bottom and concrete, and then add siding to bring it flush. That should give me a nice bit of extra insulation, before I insulate and drywall inside.

    Actually, footings were in place before the pour…….

    Haven’t measured the ledge overhang, but will probably just add flashing and then siding to bring it flush…Still mulling over what my best option is.

    Depending on the amount of hangover, flashing would be the least I would do. The extra insulation from 1″ foam board might be a good thing too.

    Good call on the extra insulation. You can get styro insulation that has a “house wrap” bonded right to it, usually foil faced. Just tape the seams with the same stuff you use on house wrap.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #605859
    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    Looking great! It will be nice to have that extra insulation as well.

    #606231
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    Will be going with 1″ styrofoam and Tyvek house wrap on the sheathing.

    Not sure, but if you have the styro over the ply sheathing, I don’t think you need any housewrap also.

    I could be wrong, but I thought I read that somewhere.

    We always use house wrap under the siding.

    #606247
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    Should be an easy shop to heat and cool. Assuming R20 in the walls plus the exterior styro will really tighten it up.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #606249
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    On the outside, is that EPS you use or extruded PS?

Viewing 20 posts - 61 through 80 (of 85 total)
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