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Nailing T&G siding

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  • #505732
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    How do you approach blind nailing T&G siding?

    I have a prospective job that will include removing about 40 feet of siding, 9′ high. It is a historical home that belongs to an architect, so the replacement has to be spot on. The existing siding is 1×6 V groove Douglas Fir, all blind nailed. I’d love to use fir, but pine is probably the most likely replacement as it is what I can source here.

    The sheeting is 2x4s…not plywood or OSB, but apparently full 2x4s. This lady knows here stuff (architect) so I’m trusting that she’s accurate. From what I can currently see through some damaged areas in the siding, it’s definitely dimensional lumber of an undetermined width and depth.

    What kind of nail gun should I use? I have several and I’m not against buying more. Will a 15ga hold properly? Can I even get the gun placed appropriately to fire the nail? I know my 18ga Grex will fit, but the nail is tiny in comparison. Is an 18ga staple an option? My Hitachi shoots a max length of 1 1/2″. Lots of options, but what is the best way to go.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #505760
    Clev08
    Pro

    I would go with a 15 gauge and fire the nails in at an angle to hold the siding to the house. I just finished repairing skirt boards on a deck that were installed with a 15 gauge trim gun. The nails were fired straight into the framing and gave little resistance to the board pulling away.

    #505761
    Seven-Delta-FortyOne
    Pro
    The Emerald Triangle, Northern California

    I’m a little confused.

    You say the sheeting is 2×4. You do mean sheeting, and not studs, right? And someone actually did that? 😮

    When you talk about blind-nailing, are you talking about shooting through the groove, like you do on hardwood flooring? Because I can’t imagine that working, without blowing out the groove, especially in pine.

    The most common way I’ve seen and done T&G siding with no nails visible, is to just face nail with 8D HDG, and then go through with a nail set, and set them all. 😮 Charge accordingly.

    Delta

    Goin' Down In Flames........

    #505814
    Warren6810
    Moderator
    Akron, OH

    We have used screws occasionally on t&g to have more control and less splits.

    #505825
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I’m a little confused.

    You say the sheeting is 2×4. You do mean sheeting, and not studs, right? And someone actually did that? 😮

    When you talk about blind-nailing, are you talking about shooting through the groove, like you do on hardwood flooring? Because I can’t imagine that working, without blowing out the groove, especially in pine.

    The most common way I’ve seen and done T&G siding with no nails visible, is to just face nail with 8D HDG, and then go through with a nail set, and set them all. 😮 Charge accordingly.

    Delta

    Sheeting is clearly not the right word, but the 2x4s are being used as sheeting would be…on the exterior side of the studs!

    The existing siding is nailed on the tongue of each board, not face nailed. In the interest of keeping the aesthetic the same, I want to nail the tongue if possible.

    IF I face nail, I’d have to fill each of the holes and sand the filler flat to make everything look like the rest of the home.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #505837
    Clev08
    Pro

    I would try to stick with nailing or screwing the tongues, not sure how filling the holes will last on the outside of a house. If they move or fall out it defeats the purpose.

    #505839
    redwood
    Pro

    We did some T&G siding, that was vertical over horiz. 2×4.s. We used a combination of trim head screws and 15 gu. finish nails.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #505843
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    I think I would favour the 15 ga with a modified nose to ensure you hit the right spot at the base of the tongue. It should be able to set a fastener with enough accuracy to prevent splitting and to ensure no nail heads are standing proud at the same time. Adhesive coated galv nails would be my preference.

    BE the change you want to see.
    Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.

    #505847
    asevereid
    Pro
    Kamloops, BC

    15 ga will be sufficient, just take care to orient your nails perpendicular to the grain to avoid splits.
    It sounds like you’ve got plenty of solid backing to fasten to, so feel free to drive them at 12″ o.c if you wish.
    I finished an interior pine t&g project not too long ago, and nailed all of it with 15 ga.

    Lurking Hit and Run poster.

    #505848
    BeardedCarpenter
    Pro
    Winsted, CT

    I recently did two porch ceilings with T&G v grove 1×6 fir blind fastened. We shot 15g finish nails at an angle through the tung. You have to be spot on. Too low it shows, too high it splits the tung, too steep it’ll come out the other side of the tung and the groove of the next piece will hit it and not fall flush.

    For what it’s worth, the gun I used was a Bostitch, a newer model. It’s light, quiet, and has some nice features. Really the only area it struggles with is consistently firing nails without jamming.

    #505850
    Warren6810
    Moderator
    Akron, OH

    I recently did two porch ceilings with T&G v grove 1×6 fir blind fastened. We shot 15g finish nails at an angle through the tung. You have to be spot on. Too low it shows, too high it splits the tung, too steep it’ll come out the other side of the tung and the groove of the next piece will hit it and not fall flush.

    For what it’s worth, the gun I used was a Bostitch, a newer model. It’s light, quiet, and has some nice features. Really the only area it struggles with is consistently firing nails without jamming.

    Oh, is that the only area where it struggle? Lol.
    I find guns that don’t jam often to be highly desireable.

    #505862
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    The nose on my Senco 15ga is kind of big but I could probably make it work if I’m careful. I suppose I could install a few a rows of trim screws (top, middle, bottom) for some extra insurance and nail the tongues with the 15ga.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #505864
    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    I recently did two porch ceilings with T&G v grove 1×6 fir blind fastened. We shot 15g finish nails at an angle through the tung. You have to be spot on. Too low it shows, too high it splits the tung, too steep it’ll come out the other side of the tung and the groove of the next piece will hit it and not fall flush.

    For what it’s worth, the gun I used was a Bostitch, a newer model. It’s light, quiet, and has some nice features. Really the only area it struggles with is consistently firing nails without jamming.

    I have seen this as well in cedar. Looked nice, and as an added bonus, whoever scavenges it someday (the cedar I saw it in was worth scavenging), it gives clear boards once the tongue and groove are ripped off.

    #505902
    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Moderator
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    I think the 15 ga would be fine, it is easiest to find galvanized nails for a 15 GA also.

    #505925
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I think the 15 ga would be fine, it is easiest to find galvanized nails for a 15 GA also.

    I probably have some actually. I think I’ll be buying a couple pieces of pine T&G and testing the nailer on them…mostly to see if it can reliably hit the tongue and not miss high or low. I was able to source Douglas fir…all the way across the country! They can have it shipped here for a little more than double what I’d pay for yellow pine. It’s up to the customer now!

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #506003
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    If the outside is sheathed with 2×4 than the T&G is just for looks and not sheer so some glue and 15ga. or 18ga. is what we just used on theses cabanas we just finished. We shot them into the top tongue of the boards.

    #508185

    I just recently finish a porch ceiling with T&G cedar. I used a good construction adhesive and stainless 15ga nails into the tongue worked great. As others said you have to be real careful with where you place the nails.

    #508213
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I just recently finish a porch ceiling with T&G cedar. I used a good construction adhesive and stainless 15ga nails into the tongue worked great. As others said you have to be real careful with where you place the nails.

    I agree, we just shot all this T&G hemlock on with 18ga. nails.

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