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Replacement blades for oscillating tools cost a ton of money and I hate to shell out the cash but also hate to open my multi-tool case and find dull blades.
One of the guys that works for me has been usng a ton of multi-tool blades so I decided to “descreetl;y” watch him use the tool. After watching him put all of his weight into cutting poplar baseboard and smoking the blade I knew the reasoon he was blowing thru blades.
Here’s the tips I gave him – I’d like to hear your tips:
Multi-tools vibrate and have a micro stroke which by design do not remove waste from the blade kerf. If you rock the tool back and forth, pull the blade out of the kerf or cut along a longer line while appling tool pressure the cut waste will find a way out of the kerf. Keeping the kerf clean means a blade cooler and lessens the chance of the blade overheating
Soap, wax or bees wax helps lubricate the blade and reduces friction which causes that nasty blade dulling heat.
What’s your tips?
~ Rob at http://www.ConcordCarpenter.com
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with fresh blades be light with the tool and save the new blade for cuts that have to be clean and no burn marks this is especially important on hardwood flooring and stain grade trim. for rough cuts just use the older blades it might take a little longer but it still cuts.. for really bad blades i use them for drywall patches and making holes in existing walls. using a really dull blade doesnt matter in drywall its not a dense material especially now more than ever whene lightweight board is the only thing available in building supplies unless its type x ..
heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit
Just like sanding with a random orbit or pad sander, let the sandpaper, or in this case, the blade do the work! It is easier on the blade and just as important, it is easier on the tool. The tool is even more expensive to repair/replace than the blade(s). I unfortunately know!
I’ve had good success with sharpening the blades for my multi tool. If you use a basic wood cutting blade that is made of high carbon steel they can be easily sharpened with a hand saw file. I’ve been getting 4-5 times the life out of a blade by keeping them sharp with a file. The key is making sure the blade is HCS and not HSS because the HSS and bimetal blades are too hard to sharpen with a normal file.
Dan
danpattison.com
I also agree with all of these methods of prolonging the life of my blades.Not being aggessive is key to their life.
Good tips guys. I guess when the blade gets to the point where it won’t even cut drywall, you could run the edge of the blade over your grinder and make it into a scraper.
yes I did Dan
took me awhile to get it right. This was my first time sharping my blades. I saw the difference it made.
Again ThanksGlad it worked out for you, it certainly increases the life of the blades when you are able to sharpen them.
Dan
danpattison.com
I tried sharpening the blades and it seemed as though they don’t last a long time and do that for sharpening. Many had been doing it wrong, but then I had another show called professional sharpen for me and they still didn’t last very long so I’ve done that to buy a new. But thanks for the tips.
Aren’t the majority of OMT blades stamped fron HSS? I can’t see sharpening those tiny teeth…especially after I wear them down to 30% of their original size.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramGreat hints Rob, using a multi tool does take a little getting used . It is not a tool where brute force comes into play. In a lot of cases, a soft touch is much better.
a soft touch is much better.
I’ve found that as well. More of a finesse tool.
Automotive Pro
Fayetteville, NC
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