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Keeping holesaw from getting stuck on mandrel

Viewing 20 posts - 21 through 40 (of 57 total)
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  • #497883

    I use the spyder rapid core eject system. I like it a lot because it solves both problems. The mandrel has the pull back pin feature, plus there is a push button which allows you to slide the saw back and eject the core without any tools. It works with any hole saw that uses the standard mandrel. I have Bosch, Lennox, Irwin, and Spyder saws in different sizes. Bang for the buck I’d put spyder against any of them.

    http://www.spyderproducts.com/toolpages/spyder-hole-saw/

    Anything is possible if your wallet is thick enough ~ my father

    #497913
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    You can try a small dab of anti sieze lube on the threads but in reality you just need to go buy the better quick release arbor. It was invented to solve this exact issue.

    Anti seize, darn how could I forget that.

    I’ll try it and report back.

    #497921
    Austin
    Pro
    Covington, KY

    No I don’t have the collar and the two pins to hold hole saw in place, the mandrel screws onto the hole saw until it bottoms out.

    That type just gets tighter when you use them…nature of the beast. The quick connect type a better about this, but the plug can still get stuck.

    Yes, the fix to this problem is the new arbor with the two pins.
    I have the Milwaukee hole saws, they have a lifetime tooth warranty so if I break a tooth I get a new saw.
    @Doobie I just got some recently but have not had the chance to use them yet. The multi constructions saws I got have a 1/2 inch quick change arbor with no threads.

    I had no idea about that warranty. It’s good to know. Now I am even more glad that I bought that set.

    #498047
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    I tried it with antiseize on thread of mandrel and saw. It comes apart a lot easier now, didn’t need an impact driver, but it still ain’t coming off without an adjustable spanner.

    So this is probably as good as it gets until I can upgrade to a set with quick detach mandrel.

    #498050
    crotalusco
    Pro
    west bend, wi

    Holesaws are by far getting better with every year that goes by. It is about time as often as they are used. The only problem is the price is adjusting accordingly.

    If only they were more universal and exchangeable as it stands we need to have some of them all

    #498081

    This is one area where you truly get what you pay for.

    Does anybody have any Bosch hole saw sets?

    I have one, bought about 5 ish years ago, love it, it has the pins that pushes into the hole saw.
    Great set, it’s the one 58Chev posted.

    #498102
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I use the spyder rapid core eject system. I like it a lot because it solves both problems. The mandrel has the pull back pin feature, plus there is a push button which allows you to slide the saw back and eject the core without any tools. It works with any hole saw that uses the standard mandrel. I have Bosch, Lennox, Irwin, and Spyder saws in different sizes. Bang for the buck I’d put spyder against any of them.

    http://www.spyderproducts.com/toolpages/spyder-hole-saw/

    This is the first positive thing I’ve heard about Spyder. Everyone I know stays away because their stuff looks gimmicky.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #498350
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    The Spyder system looks interesting. Solves the “get the core out” problem.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #498397
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    If your drilling thin stuff, I kinda like the Bosch Thin Wall Hole saws.

    They have a spring in them to assist with the removal of material.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #498420
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    If your drilling thin stuff, I kinda like the Bosch Thin Wall Hole saws.

    They have a spring in them to assist with the removal of material.

    All wood here, so can’t use that. I think I’ll keep watching the price of a quick detach kit and get one when a good deal comes around.

    #500201
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Is it really that simple….

    #500203
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    Is it really that simple….

    <figure class=”oe-video-container”><iframe width=”770″ height=”433″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/uImGmNok4aA?feature=oembed&wmode=opaque&#8221; frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe></figure>

    Drywall, not gonna happen with wood I’d bet.

    #500215
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Drywall, not gonna happen with wood I’d bet.

    In the video he even says drywall like he knows it won’t work with wood

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #500217
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    Is it really that simple….

    <figure class=”oe-video-container”><iframe width=”770″ height=”433″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/uImGmNok4aA?feature=oembed&wmode=opaque” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe></figure>

    Drywall, not gonna happen with wood I’d bet.

    Definitely will not happen with a wood plug. Drill through a top plate (or any other 2x) and try this and you end up with a dented hole saw, missing paint and a sore wrist….and the plug will still be jammed in the saw.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #500240

    Is it really that simple….

    <figure class=”oe-video-container”><iframe width=”770″ height=”433″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/uImGmNok4aA?feature=oembed&wmode=opaque” frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe></figure>

    Drywall, not gonna happen with wood I’d bet.

    Definitely will not happen with a wood plug. Drill through a top plate (or any other 2x) and try this and you end up with a dented hole saw, missing paint and a sore wrist….and the plug will still be jammed in the saw.

    Ah yeah that’s not gonna work, I always have to pry it out in the slots on the side with a screw driver ,

    #500243
    Austin
    Pro
    Covington, KY

    I saw a tip in fine homebulding magazine once that said to run a screw through the plug. Then it will hit the back of the saw and wind itself up and out.

    #500253
    Doobie
    Moderator

    I saw a tip in fine homebulding magazine once that said to run a screw through the plug. Then it will hit the back of the saw and wind itself up and out.

    There’s all sorts of ways to get them out. Some easier than others.

    #500316

    I saw a tip in fine homebulding magazine once that said to run a screw through the plug. Then it will hit the back of the saw and wind itself up and out.

    There’s all sorts of ways to get them out. Some easier than others.

    For some reason I’m the hard knocks way . Hammer and slotted screw driver hit that baby out .

    Always willing to learn .

    #500548
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    There’s all sorts of ways to get them out. Some easier than others.

    Problem is most of them take time and require you to stop what your doing and then spend time cleaning out the plug and moving on to the next hole. Easier cleanout in a hole saw is nice.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #500883
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    Something just occurred to me, how tight the plug stucks probably depends on how much set the hole saw teeth has. If it has more set then the plug would be undersized and easy to remove, if it has less set the plug would be barely smaller than hole saw inside diameter and thus hard to remove.

    If you have a set that’s hard to get plugs out and also have a teeth setter for hand saw, perhaps bending the inset teeth a bit more would make the plug comes out easier. Of course this is just speculation, haven’t tested it yet.

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