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JS260 shaft orientation

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  • #554604
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    I bought a JS260 jig saw, reconditioned, in December of 2014. I noticed that when I was trying to cut with it, the blade tracked just off from parallel to the foot…I’m wondering if there is a way to adjust it. I’ve used it since, just manually correcting for that error, but I would like to be able to use it against a straight edge and have it follow the line I have set, instead of wandering off. Thanks!

    Charlie
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    #554606
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    go slow? i find mine wanders if i am rushing and just trying to go plow through the board.

    #554642
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    go slow? i find mine wanders if i am rushing and just trying to go plow through the board.

    I have tried being as slow and careful as I can – I checked the orientation of the blade when it’s fully attached, and it’s skewed slightly out of alignment, so even going slowly it pulls away (or digs into) any straight edge I try to run it against.

    When I first got it, I thought I just didn’t know how to use it, so I tried every orbital setting, different blades, different shank attachment styles (I think it accepts U and T shank) and nothing helped.

    I’ll try and get a picture when I get home tonight and post it tomorrow.

    Charlie
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    #554646
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I thought a jigsaw was for curved cuts?? Why not use a circular saw with a straight edge.

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #554650
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    I thought a jigsaw was for curved cuts?? Why not use a circular saw with a straight edge.

    I do most of the time, but I have an old craftsmen circ saw that’s really heavy and the foot is pretty rough, so pushing that thing is more than it’s worth some times. I use my jig saw to cut small straight lines on a pattern that also has curves or turns, but mostly, I used a straight edge to diagnose the problem because the blade felt like it was wondering away from everywhere I wanted it to go, unless I held the body at an odd angle from the cut path. So I put it up against a straight edge, and, sure enough, it wouldn’t cut against it, but would kick out from it.

    What I’m really wondering is if taking the body apart would allow me to adjust the shaft, or if I would just mess everything up without special tools to work on it. Or if there is an external adjustment I don’t know about that could line up the foot and the blade.

    Charlie
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    #554656
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    I’ve never taken apart Bosch jigsaws but have done a few others. The shaft is pressed into an alignment block and unless you can press it out and back in again, you are out of luck. If you are mechanically inclined feel free to take it apart and have a look, they are pretty simple inside.

    #554663

    @cmeyer25

    The JS260 is an entry level jigsaw but you could look at the parts diagram and see if there’s any areas apparent adjustment:
    http://cms.toolpartspro.com/image/JS260/JS260-bosch-PB.png

    Worst case, you could just make a sub base out of wood or something that’s angled to compensate for the rotation of the bladeholder so you can use that against a straightedge.

    #554683
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    I’ve never taken apart Bosch jigsaws but have done a few others. The shaft is pressed into an alignment block and unless you can press it out and back in again, you are out of luck. If you are mechanically inclined feel free to take it apart and have a look, they are pretty simple inside.

    I will definitely take a look at that. I’m fairly mechanically inclined (or at least, adventurous 😁 ) o hopefully that will work out. I was hesitant because I had heard that when some tools are manufactured, they have to use proprietary tools to assemble them, and, in that case, I wouldn’t be able to put it back together if I took it apart. And the last thing I’d want is a completely useless tool that used to work moderately well.

    @cmeyer25

    The JS260 is an entry level jigsaw but you could look at the parts diagram and see if there’s any areas apparent adjustment:
    http://cms.toolpartspro.com/image/JS260/JS260-bosch-PB.png

    Worst case, you could just make a sub base out of wood or something that’s angled to compensate for the rotation of the bladeholder so you can use that against a straightedge.

    A sub base might not be a bad idea, apart from the way the handle has to be held at an angle (fairly awkward)…if I can’t fix it, I may go that route – thanks!

    Charlie
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    #554686

    @cmeyer25

    The only thing I can think of on Bosch tools that’s even vaguely close to “obstructive” is that you’ll encounter torx head screws. The only other thing is the batteries have an anti disassembly/warranty screw. I don’t think Bosch wants to get into our way for some basic field service like replacing the cord or brushes. You can order parts direct from Bosch as well.

    If you’re feeling “excessively adventurous” then there’s the option of using a file to remove material on one side of the footplate to make it parallel to your blade. I think that’d be going a little too far compared to mounting a sub base or adding a shim to correct for the twist relative to the blade. I’d do everything to work from the outside to the inside and start with the least intrusive methods before thinking about adjusting the shaft (Seeing if the baseplate can be slightly rotated, sticking a side shimming piece on, making a sub plate, etc…).

    I’m assuming (As I don’t have a JS260, but I have a JS120) that there’s some mount of twist that you can adjust the footplate for. It is also a sheet metal plate, that might also be throwing your cut off a little compared to the nicer solid plates on the higher end Bosch jigsaws.

    #554782
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    So, I went and checked out my saw and it seems that it’s actually dead on when it’s not cutting, but there is a lot of side to side play in the shaft, so that must be what the problem has actually been. Good thing I checked – I have just been assuming it was off this whole time and it was a completely different problem 😅

    Now, how do I tighten it up?? I guess I will be taking it apart after all 🙂

    Attachments:

    Charlie
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    #554791
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    The blade is probable getting too hot and deflecting. Try a new and better blade.

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #554863
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    I thought a jigsaw was for curved cuts?? Why not use a circular saw with a straight edge.

    The blade is probable getting too hot and deflecting. Try a new and better blade.

    Both good advice.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC
    (and also the World's Fastest Poster)

    #554875
    RonW
    Pro
    Holladay, Tn

    I think your expecting to much out of a jig saw.
    Blade wonder is something that is going to happen. A new and better blade will help, but still not going to cut like a circular saw will.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #554882

    @cmeyer25

    Yeah I don’t think you can necessarily tighten it up to have it cut against a straightedge with the JS260 if it deflects during the cut like that. It is after all, an entry level jigsaw. The only jigsaws that I know of that can pull that kind of cut off are the Mafell P1cc, the Festool Carvex 420 (“Only in thin stock” according to Festool) and possibly the JS572 if you could get the NAINA rail adapter for it. The respective price ranges of those are between $765, and $365, $270. I actually have the Mafell as well…

    Stick with a circular saw for long straight cuts, it’ll be economically less painful on your wallet.

    #554902

    You can try thicker blades like Bosch blades that end in “DP” or the Festool Carvex or Trion labeled blades. The shoe is likely skewed and not sure you can adjust it. But sometimes you have to turn it to follow the blade. As Reflector says, the top end jigsaws will help — I own them all and the Mafell is the only one of the bunch that can cut dead-nuts square and parallel in all types of wood, thick and thin. Carvex is a good second followed by Trion and Bosch JS572. I use jigsaws extensively and that has been my experience.

    Orange County, CA

    #554909
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    I own them all and the Mafell is the only one of the bunch that can cut dead-nuts square and parallel i

    Thanks for the info on the Mafell.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC
    (and also the World's Fastest Poster)

    #554911
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    The blade is probable getting too hot and deflecting. Try a new and better blade.

    I thought a jigsaw was for curved cuts?? Why not use a circular saw with a straight edge.

    The blade is probable getting too hot and deflecting. Try a new and better blade.

    Both good advice.

    I think your expecting to much out of a jig saw.
    Blade wonder is something that is going to happen. A new and better blade will help, but still not going to cut like a circular saw will.

    @cmeyer25

    Yeah I don’t think you can necessarily tighten it up to have it cut against a straightedge with the JS260 if it deflects during the cut like that. It is after all, an entry level jigsaw. The only jigsaws that I know of that can pull that kind of cut off are the Mafell P1cc, the Festool Carvex 420 (“Only in thin stock” according to Festool) and possibly the JS572 if you could get the NAINA rail adapter for it. The respective price ranges of those are between $765, and $365, $270. I actually have the Mafell as well…

    Stick with a circular saw for long straight cuts, it’ll be economically less painful on your wallet.

    You can try thicker blades like Bosch blades that end in “DP” or the Festool Carvex or Trion labeled blades. The shoe is likely skewed and not sure you can adjust it. But sometimes you have to turn it to follow the blade. As Reflector says, the top end jigsaws will help — I own them all and the Mafell is the only one of the bunch that can cut dead-nuts square and parallel in all types of wood, thick and thin. Carvex is a good second followed by Trion and Bosch JS572. I use jigsaws extensively and that has been my experience.

    I hear you guys – I’m not trying for anything longer than, say, 6-8 inches of a straight cut. A recent example would be I was cutting a square hole in a 1×6 frame of a mirror I made for our bathroom to fit an outlet through. And I know perfectly straight isn’t even super important since it gets covered up, but it bothered me that I couldn’t even go 4 inches without moving off my line even though I had a straight edge guide. For cuts like that, I would like to have things look really nice, but it sounds like I’m better off using my OMT next time, or something similar?

    I’m still a little concerned by the deflection of the shaft – not the blade. I expect blade deflection, but when I was looking at it last night, it was the actual shaft, inside the housing of the jig saw, that was moving left to right…is that how the orbital function works or is it just the tolerances of that saw, or is it an actual problem?

    Charlie
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    #554981
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    No the orbital doesn’t move the shaft left and right. But depends on how strict you define straight, it’s probably normal for a lower priced jigsaw.

    Have you tried different blades though?

    #554991
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    No the orbital doesn’t move the shaft left and right. But depends on how strict you define straight, it’s probably normal for a lower priced jigsaw.

    Have you tried different blades though?

    That’s what I thought. I have lots of different blades, for wood and metal, but they’re all Bosch brand and from the same, multi purpose pack. Same problem with all of them.

    Charlie
    __________________

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    #554992
    jzmtl
    Pro
    Montreal, QC

    No the orbital doesn’t move the shaft left and right. But depends on how strict you define straight, it’s probably normal for a lower priced jigsaw.

    Have you tried different blades though?

    That’s what I thought. I have lots of different blades, for wood and metal, but they’re all Bosch brand and from the same, multi purpose pack. Same problem with all of them.

    Hmm that’s going to be a tough one to fix. There isn’t much you can do inside if there is play between the track and block.

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