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JLC offers some advise on how to properly flash windows and doors

Viewing 14 posts - 21 through 34 (of 34 total)
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  • #444698
    Seven-Delta-FortyOne
    Pro
    The Emerald Triangle, Northern California

    I haven’t used a PVC or copper pan but we did try an aluminum pan a few times and I didn’t care for it. We will put down some large flashing tape to the subfloor and then caulk the door to that. No issue doing it that way.

    I always pull in the housewrape on the jambs as well and then tuck the window under the top.

    Also caulk behind the sides and top but not the bottom.

    That’s exactly how I do mine, Andrew. Except I’ll use a PVC pan for doors, but not windows.

    Delta

    Goin' Down In Flames........

    #444730

    I haven’t used a PVC or copper pan but we did try an aluminum pan a few times and I didn’t care for it. We will put down some large flashing tape to the subfloor and then caulk the door to that. No issue doing it that way.

    I always pull in the housewrape on the jambs as well and then tuck the window under the top.

    Also caulk behind the sides and top but not the bottom.

    That’s exactly how I do mine, Andrew. Except I’ll use a PVC pan for doors, but not windows.

    Delta

    Well then I guess great minds think alike…lol!! It has been our method for around 7 years or so. We changed when we noticed Andersen updated their instructions. I will say Andersen has the most comprehensive instructions out of all the brands I have installed.



    @Seven-Delta-FortyOne

    Andrew

    A Working Pro since 1995!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #444746
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    @overanalyze That system looks like no water will get around it and inside.

    #444749
    woodman_412
    Moderator

    I tried some plastic sill corners on some windows I installed last summer. Can’t remember what brand they were but they basically give you a waterproof corner at each end of your window or door sill. I don’t know that they are really necessary though when using a good adhesive flashing tape but they are extra insurance against water damage I guess.

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #444761

    I have seen those pans but never used one. On some windows it can affect how you install the finish trim/extension jambs.

    You could also just frame the sill with a 5 degree slant to and that would take care of diverting any water that may get in towards the exterior…I just don’t see the need. Of all the window framing failures I have fixed they have been due to improper flashing at the head. Flash it right up top and your usually are god to go.

    Andrew

    A Working Pro since 1995!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #444781
    woodman_412
    Moderator

    You could also just frame the sill with a 5 degree slant to and that would take care of diverting any water that may get in towards the exterior…I just don’t see the need. Of all the window framing failures I have fixed they have been due to improper flashing at the head. Flash it right up top and your usually are god to go.

    I agree Andrew. If you are having to direct large amounts of water at the sill level something was done terribly wrong at the head. I always say think like a rain drop when you’re installing windows and doors.

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #580778
    Stilla
    Pro

    I have seen it done many different ways. I feel the house wrap needs to be pulled into the window R/O as it is the 1st step required to seal the thermal envelope. this allows the spray foam to make contact with the exterior of the house wrap, the flashing, and the window itself.

    I have seen paint blister on exterior siding with pockets of water, as the humidity inside a home was higher then atmosphere outside the home. The moisture inside the home was being sucked right through the exterior walls and captured behind latex paint. It also saturated the insulation in the walls and mildew started to grow on the exterior framing.

    #580793
    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    ive used several methods.. some are total overkill some are standard proven.

    my typicaly method is to have the housewrap on first.. slashing the paper all the way around the opening not worrying about tucking it in as it can cause issues with spray fully filling the gap around the window. first i use peel and stick on the window sil wrapping down over the paper and about 3″ up the sides.. from there the window gets set in. the sides get peel and stick over top of the wrap and then the up under the paper over the top. from there a metal cap flashing is installed which is back caulked in case water backs up under it.. and finally another layer of peel and stick which helps protect the nail holes

    one of the biggest mistakes i see is both having the flashing tape over top the wrap at hte top of a window or door and guys who do vinyl siding back caulkin j channel over top of a window as it stops water that gets behind the siding a spot to come back out.

    6 years ago we framed a massive house, we bid on doing the siding but were underbid.. the guy who did end up doing it improperly flashed every window and they all leaked causing a ton of water damage.. the homeowner tried taking us to court saying we messed up. when the judge saw that we weretn the ones who did the windows or the siding along with photos that i provided of the flashing techniques we use the judge threw it out of court

    heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

    #580814
    JimDaddyO
    Pro
    Wawa, ON

    The few times I did it (the shop) I put the drip cap on and then the house wrap. I generally think in terms of water going down the wall will drip off the seam where any 2 things overlap and not run into the seam.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #580855
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I feel the house wrap needs to be pulled into the window R/O as it is the 1st step required to seal the thermal envelope.

    Wrapping the inside of the RO does nothing to waterproof the house. That just pisses off the trim guys that need to cut it out of the way. The best way to waterproof the window is to read the window manufactures instructions on the window or website and go with that. Lot of the window companies will not stand behind their warranty if you don’t install to their specs.

    #580929

    I feel the house wrap needs to be pulled into the window R/O as it is the 1st step required to seal the thermal envelope.

    Wrapping the inside of the RO does nothing to waterproof the house. That just pisses off the trim guys that need to cut it out of the way. The best way to waterproof the window is to read the window manufactures instructions on the window or website and go with that. Lot of the window companies will not stand behind their warranty if you don’t install to their specs.

    100% agree!! READ AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS! Then put them in the job file. They change them over the years and you want proof that you followed them for the year you installed them.

    Andrew

    A Working Pro since 1995!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #580935

    I feel the house wrap needs to be pulled into the window R/O as it is the 1st step required to seal the thermal envelope.

    Wrapping the inside of the RO does nothing to waterproof the house. That just pisses off the trim guys that need to cut it out of the way. The best way to waterproof the window is to read the window manufactures instructions on the window or website and go with that. Lot of the window companies will not stand behind their warranty if you don’t install to their specs.

    100% agree!! READ AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS! Then put them in the job file. They change them over the years and you want proof that you followed them for the year you installed them.

    Excellent advice on filing them for future reference. Hopefully it will never be needed, but far to ofton….

    #581178
    Warren6810
    Moderator
    Akron, OH

    Our method is pretty much exactly what jkirk does. In 20 plus years, I have had just one call back for window/door flashing issues. Then again, way back when I first started framing in the early 80’s, there was no Tyvek, no window tape, nothing. Never any call backs on any of those that I recall either.

    #581214
    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    in the 7 almost 8 years ive been with teh current company we have only had 1 issue with window leaks via our install.. the leak was caused by a faulty seal on a window unit itself, water was getting in through the seal on the glazed unit when rain was wind driven.. we opened up the siding,, checked the flashing details everything intact.. wasnt til the window company came out and found the seal issue for which they took care of via warrenty

    weve get calls by plenty of people who have window leaks installed by other people.. people who dont cap flash, they lap peel and stick incorrect, or they dont prime it so it doesnt stay stuck. some peel and sticks work awesome by their self no primer required.. blueskin absolutely needs primer as it has very little tack on its own

    heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

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