Hitachi C10RJ Table Saw

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
  • #655557

    Just got one as a supplemental tablesaw to my Bosch 4100. Interesting design, but it is definitely less refined than the 4100. The 4100 I definitely feel like I didn’t overpay too much for $600 when I bought it, given the Hitachi was on sale for $300.

    Just some initial impressions after assembling it:
    The Hitachi has a lot more uncoated steel parts, coated with some kind of nasty stinking oil. I assume that’s for anti corrosion purposes when they ship it but the Bosch has chromed steel components that don’t have oil on them when I assembled it.

    Gravity Rise Stand rules in everything but weight. It feels more stable than the four legs on the Hitachi. The Hitachi’s four legs are pretty lightweight and you can make them wiggle a little if you put force on them. I think the stand on the 4100 weighs almost as much as the Hitachi. The 4100 is a light saw in comparison but the stand really makes up for the rise. The Hitachi will make it through narrow spaces where the Bosch won’t.

    The base of the Hitachi is tubular like the Bosch GTS1041, Dewalts and Skilsaws.

    When loosening the tilt lock on the Hitachi the motor doesn’t flop over like the 4100. Seems like they put something in to give some friction to the saw.

    Push stick is located in the front like the Bosch REAXX. A good change, I never liked getting the push stick from the rear of the 4100 and I end up using my thin push sticks I have lying around somewhere instead.

    Haven’t fired the Hitachi up yet but it is supposed to have a brake to stop the blade faster. I’ll find out if it stops a stack of dados any faster. Something I wished the 4100 had. I compensate for that by killing power just before the end of the cut so the blade doesn’t coast for such a long time. Still sucks when you forget since good table saw safety procedure is to let the blade stop before reaching over/around it or if you have a piece hanging off unsupported and you’re holding onto it.

    The 4100 runs at lower RPMs. Whether that means it has more torque I don’t know, but I’ll be finding out and reporting in on that. I know I can definitely trip the breaker with the 4100 if I let it with a deep rip cut using a coated 24T thin kerf blade with aggressive feed rates.

    Power switch on the Hitachi is the type where the on button is recessed and there’s a paddle over the off button. I kind of like this more than the lift up mechanism to power on the 4100.

    There’s an outfeed extension and a sort of left side support on the Hitachi. The 4100 I like the left side in that you can pull it out but I don’t like how it deflects so much at beyond half extension. The Hitachi has it built into the stand so there’s more rigidity to it but no real adjustment for height or anything.

    The throat plate has a metal lock with a spring on it instead of using four screws to lock into position or a small bent piece of metal. The throat plate looks easier to make than the Bosch’s plate since the throat plate on the 4100 has the curves which means you’ll have to round those over to match versus make straight cuts and call it a day.

    There’s definitely better dust containment in the shroud than the 4100 but I’m confident with my own modifications to the 4100 to reduce the amount of dust generated below the table.

    I don’t like the rack and pinion fence system. It feels like the Dewalts that I’ve played with, but they all lock up decently rigidly. A shame since the 4100 has somewhat of a limited rip width at 25″. Another thing that sucks about the rack and pinion fences is you have to lift the fence out of the little nubs by unlocking the fence at both ends then rotating it out to then move the fence to the different nubs to get the full cutting width. The Bosch is pretty natural with the T style fence and the extension unlock. The rack and pinion type fences need you to unlock the bottom to do the main movement and then if you need to go by steps you have to unlock the fence piece and move it across the nubs on the sliding rails.

    Speaking of the fence it is a L shaped thing. I’ll have to figure out a way to mount my Jessem table saw guides on it since there’s no T slot and it seems I’ll have to drill into the fence or clamp a T track on at least. Definitely a big minus, even with the rotation of the fence which lets you have more clearance with push sticks when making narrow rips.

    Honolulu,, Hi.

    Hitachi makes some solid tools.. Do you have any pics of the saw?

    Fayetteville, NC

    Just got one as a supplemental tablesaw to my Bosch 4100 I definitely feel like I didn’t overpay too much for $600 when I bought it, given the Hitachi was on sale for $300.

    You got it for a great price so it will come in handy on jobs where you need 2 saws. You can coat the bare metal with a clear metal coating spray. It is not a paint but a wax like stuff that eventually dries out. I use it all the time for bare metal left out in the weather and it lasts 2 years no rust. Look for MPC.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC


    Few more impressions and photos:
    Plastic trunnions. Don’t know what kind of plastic was used, but it appears to be untinted/natural in color so it probably has no UV blockers. Kinda don’t like that, but for the price and features I kind of see why they skimped on the trunions like that.

    The tilt adjustment is controlled by the wheel, so it isn’t a friction mechanism like I thought when I was first unpacking it.

    Brake rules, haven’t run dados on it yet but being able to stop the blade in under 3 seconds is something I like a lot. I just do something similar as I did on the Bosch 4100 by killing the motor right before the end of the cut, except the blade helps slow the blade down faster. The blade pretty much stops within a second after I finish the cut when I do that.

    Dust collection stock is okay, it’ll spray dust out the front at an angle but in no way is it comparable to how bad the 4100 is. I sealed up the gaps and did my modifications and there’s only a major hole in the rear between the tabletop and shroud in the rear now. I only see a little bit of dust on the floor after making a bunch of rips and I suspect a lot of that is above table.

    Fence mechanism is kinda weird and I don’t exactly trust it for squareness in tilt against the table since it can wobble even if you lock it down. It is nice that it’ll rip super wide but it isn’t the most robust of fences. The Dewalt fences I’ve played with seem a little better.

    The 4100 is taller by 2-3 inches on the stand.

    The legs are still kind of wobbly, even if you try to take slack out of them. It is somewhat visually noticeable when you are adjusting the blade height. The stand is sufficiently robust enough to trust but it just isn’t super rigid.

    No blade lock, two wrenches. When I first tried to remove the original blade they had the nut jammed on crazy tight from the factory. Set a block of scrap material on the table to cushion one wrench and lightly hammered the other one to get it to loosen up.

    So far I think the features like the brake and price point (that I got it at) makes it a really decent purchase. It does seem a bit unrefined in a lot of ways compared to the 4100 and some other portable saw designs.


    Yeah I’ll look into putting poly on those parts or something. The wrenches are a pretty bad offender since they come coated.


    Right here.

    Honolulu,, Hi.

    Do you have any experience with other common table saws like the dewalt 745 or bosch 4100? I think the Dewalt and Ridgid has the fence to a science,,,, how is the fence on that saw??

    Holladay, Tn

    A plastic trunnion doesn’t sound very solid.

    Do you have any experience with other common table saws like the dewalt 745 or bosch 4100? I think the Dewalt and Ridgid has the fence to a science,,,, how is the fence on that saw??

    DeWalt does have a very nice fence on their table saw.


    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    Bloomington, IN

    Thanks for the review! I’ve been eyeballing this table saw at the local Lowe’s, it’s got a lot of cool features, hitachi is definitely stepping up their game lately (impact drivers, cordless nail guns, this saw). And the price is almost unbelievable, which worries me about its quality, but $300 is kind of unheard of for a ts with this much rip capacity, a stand, brake, etc..

    I used to have a makita 2703 table saw that had a brake and I do miss that feature, it’s strange that blade brakes are so commonplace on miter saws and rarely found on table saws.

    I currently run a dewalt dw744, so personally a big fan of the rack and pinion fence. In playing with the store display model, the hitachi fence does feel “cheaper” slightly than the new dewalts, and I noticed it didn’t lock down securely, at least on this display, I would have to imagine the tension is adjustable though. I also hate that they reversed the action of the lock lever vs. the dewalts, that would take a while to get used to.

    Definitely don’t like the sound of plastic trunnions!
    My final concern is power, curious to know what you think as you use it more, ripping 2x, hardwood, 2x on a bevel etc.

    It got pretty decent reviews from concord carpenter…




    The 4100 has a pretty solid fence and I like T square fences over the rack and pinion type. I always push forward on it so it never locks out of square for me. IMO I hate the rack and pinion types of fences since you’re going to be messing around with moving it on the extension position vs the right up to blade position. That’s one thing I really feel annoyed by in regards to the rack and pinion types, next to the lack of easy quick adjustment.

    Trying to adjust the fence for rapid distances means you reach under the table and then spin the dial or try to push the entire fence/rack assembly out which isn’t always straightforward since they’re kind of sticky/catchy on the mechanism.

    The fence does definitely seem wimpy compared to how well the 4100’s fence locks up. I also like the T channel in the 4100’s fence since I use my Incra guides in them which suck the workpiece right up to the fence and prevent it from moving backwards. I still need to think of a way to mount a T track onto the Hitachi.


    I really don’t know what’s going on with the plastic trunnions either. It looks really weird that they’d use a plastic one, but I’ll see how well it holds up. Cuts do seem OK and I think the fence is the weaker point right now since it can lock out of square to the tabletop surface since the fence has to rotate back and forth for the extension support mode.


    Ripping 2x is just fine like the 4100. The 4100 doesn’t slow down as much but it doesn’t spin as quickly. With the Hitachi I also ran it off a 20 amp outlet and a vacuum on 15 amp outlet on a separate circuit. Didn’t seem to show signs of stalling out when it had a (thin kerf) 50T Irwin Marples combo that I used in the Bosch before I swapped to Tenryus for the noise reduction during cuts. It does sound like it slows down and I just let up on the feed a little to avoid overworking it. It doesn’t slow down a lot, it just sounds definitely slower but if you keep pushing I think it has enough power to keep going until the breaker trips. Most of these universal motors are really powerful the closer you get to stall, they’ll pull as hard as they can until they either cook or trip a breaker.

    The stand is pretty plain jane for a “built in” wheeled stand. It is a simple design that does attach and it is kind of wobbly. I’ve seen the 4100 go on sale for $400 something with the stand, so I guess that holiday special price plus some good couponing was worthwhile for me. I can see where the $100 difference goes in terms of build. The 4100 just has a nicer fit and finish under the table and feels like a better built saw. Flaws and features aside. If you factored in the features it really makes the Hitachi worthwhile, especially if you were to compare them at both their lowest prices. The significantly wider rip capacity and brake were the real reasons I got the Hitachi to use along with the 4100. I’ll have to make some blocks to make the table heights roughly match later so I can run them back to back.

    I’ll keep everyone updated as it gets used more. Reviewers do great first impressions but actual end users have a lot more things to say. Nobody mentioned plastic trunnions when I was looking into reviews about it.


    I just got the Hitachi C10RJ Table Saw yesterday and started to test it today. I discovered that the fence isn’t exactly vertical, but I can’t find instructions on adjusting it.

    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I just got the Hitachi C10RJ Table Saw yesterday and started to test it today. I discovered that the fence isn’t exactly vertical, but I can’t find instructions on adjusting it.

    The fence should be square to the table. Is it tight and on the rails the right way?

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
© Robert Bosch Tool Corporation 2014, all rights reserved.
queries. 0.267 seconds