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Hand planes…how to choose one, how to use one

This topic contains 219 replies, has 25 voices, and was last updated by  58Chev 2 years, 2 months ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 220 total)
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  • #477792

    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    Here is one that I’d like to restore and get to a usable state.

    let me know what it is I need. I will have to watch JimDaddyO‘s video again but I think I’m missing some parts.

    The only thing I see that you seem to be missing is the fence rod. It can be had for a healthy sum of $3 here:

    http://www.stjamesbaytoolco.com/stanley.html

    Scroll down to the #78 section. Looks like it’s already in great shape! Even cleaner than mine!

    EDIT: I see Jim has told you what you need. Looks like you know where to find it now too!

    That site does not show up for me. Not even from my phone.
    I’ll tomorrow from work.

    This webpage is not available

    ERR_CONNECTION_RESET

    Hmm that is strange. That one page is working for me, but the other pages on the site appear to be down. If it won’t work for you tomorrow, you can give them a call at 480-835-1477. It’s a pretty low-tech website, but they’ve got a ton of goodies on there. I hope they’re still around. Haven’t ordered from them it a little while. If not, you can find the rod on ebay I’m sure.

    #477910

    I think that a block plane is the first plane new users should acquire – partly because it is so versatile and you will use one regardless of if you work with power tools or hand tools predominately. Lie-Nielsen’s site has a good write-up on choosing your hand tools and why:

    https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4086/core-tools

    Orange County, CA

    #478330

    yellaD
    Pro

    I think I’m going to look at some used planes…the Lee Valley and Lie-Nielson planes are beautiful, but way overpriced for my current skill level. Yard sales, Craigslist and eBay I guess.

    IMO a better quality one will help you out, maybe even not get you into a tuff situation which is important for newbies. I find I get myself into trouble with poor quality planes/irons and then it’s troubleshooting instead of enjoying the work.

    Also agree with @Mr.ToolJunkie’s “block plane first” sentiment. I did NOT get a block plane as my first (I was given a Record #4) but found myself always needing it while I could find alternatives for (not using) my #4 smoother.

    #478352

    I say you are spot-on there @yellad. Working with a poor plane does not give you the feedback you need to know you are working it properly.

    #478389

    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I think I’m going to look at some used planes…the Lee Valley and Lie-Nielson planes are beautiful, but way overpriced for my current skill level. Yard sales, Craigslist and eBay I guess.

    IMO a better quality one will help you out, maybe even not get you into a tuff situation which is important for newbies. I find I get myself into trouble with poor quality planes/irons and then it’s troubleshooting instead of enjoying the work.

    Also agree with @Mr.ToolJunkie’s “block plane first” sentiment. I did NOT get a block plane as my first (I was given a Record #4) but found myself always needing it while I could find alternatives for (not using) my #4 smoother.

    My intention is to find a nice quality plane that needs to be polished up…hopefully cheaper than new prices. I don’t want a junker!

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #478424

    I think I’m going to look at some used planes…the Lee Valley and Lie-Nielson planes are beautiful, but way overpriced for my current skill level. Yard sales, Craigslist and eBay I guess.

    IMO a better quality one will help you out, maybe even not get you into a tuff situation which is important for newbies. I find I get myself into trouble with poor quality planes/irons and then it’s troubleshooting instead of enjoying the work.

    Also agree with @Mr.ToolJunkie’s “block plane first” sentiment. I did NOT get a block plane as my first (I was given a Record #4) but found myself always needing it while I could find alternatives for (not using) my #4 smoother.

    My intention is to find a nice quality plane that needs to be polished up…hopefully cheaper than new prices. I don’t want a junker!

    That should not be too hard. There are a lot on the market, so no need to settle for junk.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #478730

    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    Hmm that is strange. That one page is working for me, but the other pages on the site appear to be down. If it won’t work for you tomorrow, you can give them a call at 480-835-1477. It’s a pretty low-tech website, but they’ve got a ton of goodies on there. I hope they’re still around. Haven’t ordered from them it a little while. If not, you can find the rod on ebay I’m sure.

    From work the link works perfectly. He is AZ time and not open till 10:30AM which is 12:30PM EST.

    Called yesterday buy I guess his wife has nothing to do with his business and asked me to try today.
    I will give him a shout later today and hope to catch him at home.
    The prices on the site sure are great.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #478753

    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    Hmm that is strange. That one page is working for me, but the other pages on the site appear to be down. If it won’t work for you tomorrow, you can give them a call at 480-835-1477. It’s a pretty low-tech website, but they’ve got a ton of goodies on there. I hope they’re still around. Haven’t ordered from them it a little while. If not, you can find the rod on ebay I’m sure.

    From work the link works perfectly. He is AZ time and not open till 10:30AM which is 12:30PM EST.

    Called yesterday buy I guess his wife has nothing to do with his business and asked me to try today.
    I will give him a shout later today and hope to catch him at home.
    The prices on the site sure are great.

    Glad it worked for you. You should be in good shape once you get that part.

    #478806

    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    Glad it worked for you. You should be in good shape once you get that part.

    Unfortunately I spoke to “Robert” and he does not have any parts for #78 planes.
    He kinda mentioned that he will have to update his website. Most of his parts have been sold in the past 4 years and he hasn’t made any in some time.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #478838

    Glad it worked for you. You should be in good shape once you get that part.

    Unfortunately I spoke to “Robert” and he does not have any parts for #78 planes.
    He kinda mentioned that he will have to update his website. Most of his parts have been sold in the past 4 years and he hasn’t made any in some time.

    That’s a shame. Will he give you the specs for them? Probably not to hard to find some steel rod and throw a thread die over it. Although, some of those British threads can be odd. But you could bring it to a small machine shop and see what it would cost. I am sure you could find one though.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #478841

    woodman_412
    Moderator

    I agree on getting a block plane first. I have a lot of different planes that do a lot of different things but the one I still reach for the most is my block plane. After a block I would say smoother would be next and then a jack or jointer. Then you can get into more specialized planes like shoulder planes, rabbet planes etc. I got hooked on buying planes years ago and ended up with a good collection so be careful, they can get addictive 😀

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #478863

    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I agree on getting a block plane first. I have a lot of different planes that do a lot of different things but the one I still reach for the most is my block plane. After a block I would say smoother would be next and then a jack or jointer. Then you can get into more specialized planes like shoulder planes, rabbet planes etc. I got hooked on buying planes years ago and ended up with a good collection so be careful, they can get addictive 😀

    My plan is to finds a nice block plans and smoother. As you suggested, the others will wait until I find the first two.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #478971

    I agree – they do accumulate. I am looking at buying a large router plane. I have a small one that I love and the larger one would be perfect for fine tuning traditional M&T joints.

    Orange County, CA

    #479012

    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    Yah the first two planes i bought was a lie nielsen block plane then came the reconditioned records block plane and a number 3 smoother plane. I then built a wooden one with @yellad but eventually i want to pick up a jointer plane.

    #480021

    I have 3 block planes. A Great Neck that I bought, and a couple of Stanley that were given to me. I still drool over the Veritas low angle block plane. Some of them are like usable art. Bridge City Tool Works make tools like that too….art. No way I can afford the price of admission to them though. I have chatted with Scott Meeks a few times on IRC, he makes some wonderful wood bodied planes.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #480288

    yellaD
    Pro

    I’ve been told that generally speaking, a good plane should be heavier than it looks with a thick iron for less chatter. The heavier the better, the thicker the better. The rest is preference.

    #480386

    I’ve been told that generally speaking, a good plane should be heavier than it looks with a thick iron for less chatter. The heavier the better, the thicker the better. The rest is preference.

    I am going to theorize that a single iron plane, from what I have gathered, will be thicker. The Hock replacement blades seem to be thicker too. Ones with chip breakers get some of their rigidity from the tension the chip breaker exerts. There are some makers and users of wood planes that will use the more modern (relatively speaking) double iron (with a chip breaker) as they perform a bit better.

    But yeah, thicker blades, heavier castings is a good indication. One of my previous posts on this thread mentions looking at the casting on the frog, indicating that the more contact area with the blade would signify an older plane.

    There are exceptions. Some modern plane builders make a very robust tool. Here is a couple of entries on “The Winter Smoother” by Brese. Told by Jameel Abrahms of Benchcrafted. Both builders of just stunning equipment. Both use some pretty old technology to get the best results.

    http://benchcrafted.blogspot.ca/2012/01/winter-smoother-monday.html

    http://benchcrafted.blogspot.ca/2012/03/winter-smoother-done_06.html

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #481477

    Here is a pretty decent link on bench planes I came across today.

    http://www.woodworkerz.com/choosing-hand-planes/

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #481481

    Austin
    Pro
    Covington, KY

    I have a decent Stanley block plane and saw that I can buy a veritas blade for it for like 40 bucks. I wonder if it would be worth it or should I just give my current blade some love on the stones.

    #481485

    Clev08
    Pro

    Thought this would be fun to own, but not for $41.50. The mini one that is.

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