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Garage & Shop Lighting

Viewing 20 posts - 181 through 200 (of 280 total)
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  • #456383
    RonW
    Moderator
    Holladay, Tn

    Back on topic. I did notice my LED lights in the shop don’t like the extreme cold. The morning we got down to 13°F. I had two or three lights that wanted to flash for a bit(5-20 seconds) till they warmed up. I haven’t had the problem any other time.

    I haven’t noticed that with mine. I did notice there is a 1 sec delay from when the switch is thrown until they come on, but no flickering.

    It has only happened the one time Bill. And was very cold in the shop.
    Mine do have a delay when the switch is first turned on. They also glow for a few seconds after they are turned off.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #456628
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Not all CFL’s and such are rated for cold weather. I found out that the hard way some years ago in the dead cold of winter. No fun changing some outdoor fixtures that are long to do so in any weather, never mind the cold of winter.

    #456723
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    They also glow for a few seconds after they are turned off.

    Yeah that’s weird for sure mine do the same thing.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #457345
    yellaD
    Pro

    I am starting to sway towards the built in LEDs lights. For around $70 CAD it’s a complete unit and will last through the seasons. Also the set up is basic, no need for real skill.

    #457490
    woodman_412
    Moderator

    I’ve been extremely happy with my LED shop lights from Costco now that I’ve been using them for a few weeks. I’m tempted to replace the one fluorescent plug in fixture that I put above my work bench because the LED’s are so much nicer and don’t hum. LED is definitely the way to go for lighting now. It’s cool to see new LED fixtures and bulbs become available for more and more things now.

    Dan

    danpattison.com

    #457681
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    I am starting to sway towards the built in LEDs lights. For around $70 CAD it’s a complete unit and will last through the seasons. Also the set up is basic, no need for real skill.

    thats what i have from costco, but what happens if you have one led blow. Do you have to replace the whole thing?

    #457696
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    thats what i have from costco, but what happens if you have one led blow. Do you have to replace the whole thing?

    The lights I bought from Sam’s are like that. No way to change the bulbs when they burn out.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #457703
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    I’ve been extremely happy with my LED shop lights from Costco now that I’ve been using them for a few weeks. I’m tempted to replace the one fluorescent plug in fixture that I put above my work bench because the LED’s are so much nicer and don’t hum. LED is definitely the way to go for lighting now. It’s cool to see new LED fixtures and bulbs become available for more and more things now.

    I have changed out 90% of the lights in my home to LED’s, a while ago RONA had a decent sale on them. I would like to see the price of the LED pot lights drop, then I can replace a bunch in my basement.

    If the shop lights come down in price, I’ll replace them also.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #457833
    yellaD
    Pro

    Yeah that’s the only draw back for sure, you have to replace the entire unit. The LED bulb is 66% of the price anyways, so it’s not too much more expensive to replace. hehe.

    #458155
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    If the shop lights come down in price, I’ll replace them also.

    Well at around $39 each I figured they had come down when I started replacing mine. Maybe the price will drop a bit more. I have not really seen the LED shop lights on sale like i used to see the fluorescent ones on sale for $10 each but no bulbs.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #458157
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    Yeah that’s the only draw back for sure, you have to replace the entire unit. The LED bulb is 66% of the price anyways, so it’s not too much more expensive to replace. hehe.

    when it does, i’ll see if i can open one up to desolder the led and see if I can just replace the one. However by that time it happens i bet you they will have newer and more efficient lighting.

    #458328
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I wonder if it was the type of ballast you have. Class A are typically in households and don’t hum. Class B hum you crazy unless they are used in noisy places anyways where their hum gets drowned out.

    How much were they Frank? And what’s the wattage on them?

    I’m noticing on some of the pics and what’s been written that they are at 32W replacing the old style 40W fluorescent. That’s not a big difference for that price diff. Hardly seems worth it. Or am I missing something or got something wrong?

    @Doobie,
    Ballast are no more than 6 months old, electronic for T8’s, no hum. They replaced the old magnetic T12 style that did hum.
    I believe they were 32W.
    I just didn’t understand why they did not work in two different T8 fixtures. One on a single circuit the other has 6 light fixtures. the LED’s didn’t even flicker a twitch.
    I’ll stick with my T8’s for now till the cost drastically drops.

    I went to HD today and looked at these LED lights to replace my old Fluorescents. I just don’t see the warrant to do so based on the price of them and how little energy they save so I decided things are gonna stay as they are.

    I would say, keep what you got until it stops working. There is no savings in replacing things well before the life expectancy is done. If you have florescent tubes, just stick with it, change the tubes as they go unless you have a place to use the old ones. I never throw out functional items. I can’t afford that..lol.

    I’m having lighting issues now in my shop, One 8′ tube doesn’t work on a dual tube fixture. and 2 four footers won’t work on another one, These are both old fluorescent with ballast. I assumed it was the bulbs so I bought new ones and they still don’t work, So it must be the ballasts.

    My question is;

    Can I get LED bulbs for them that don’t need a working ballast and I’ll just bypass it??

    #458376
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    Can I get LED bulbs for them that don’t need a working ballast and I’ll just bypass it??

    @Dabbs,
    Most LED tubes have the electronics built in on one end.
    All you have to do is cut the wires from your ballast and wire directly to the “tombstones”

    Some tubes require you to wire positive to one end and neutral to the other end, others need only wiring at one end.

    They all come with wiring schematic.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #458381
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Can I get LED bulbs for them that don’t need a working ballast and I’ll just bypass it??

    @Dabbs,
    Most LED tubes have the electronics built in on one end.
    All you have to do is cut the wires from your ballast and wire directly to the “tombstones”

    Some tubes require you to wire positive to one end and neutral to the other end, others need only wiring at one end.

    They all come with wiring schematic.

    Well very good Thanks, I might have missed it on this thread but what is the brightest bulb to get? And any idea about how much they cost?

    #458384
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    They typically go for 20 – 25 each Canadian, most likely cheaper states side.

    As for brightness. I like 6500K which is usually the brightest, 4500K – 5000K is considered sun light bright.

    power on only one side…

    power to both ends.

    Depending on the type purchased, they will say which way to wire them up.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #458662
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    but what is the brightest bulb to get?

    Lumens determines brightness, so get a bulb with the most lumens you can find.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #458698
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    but what is the brightest bulb to get?

    Lumens determines brightness, so get a bulb with the most lumens you can find.

    that it does but a good reflector also helps, a good reflector can make a bad led shine further or wider. you get one or the other.

    #458782
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    that it does but a good reflector also helps, a good reflector can make a bad led shine further or wider. you get one or the other.

    In most cases with the LET T8/T5 replacement bulbs, there is no reflector at all. the LED’s are mounted on a white background.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #458787
    jim_hunt17
    Pro
    Milwaukee, WI

    I wonder if it was the type of ballast you have. Class A are typically in households and don’t hum. Class B hum you crazy unless they are used in noisy places anyways where their hum gets drowned out.

    How much were they Frank? And what’s the wattage on them?

    I’m noticing on some of the pics and what’s been written that they are at 32W replacing the old style 40W fluorescent. That’s not a big difference for that price diff. Hardly seems worth it. Or am I missing something or got something wrong?

    @Doobie,
    Ballast are no more than 6 months old, electronic for T8’s, no hum. They replaced the old magnetic T12 style that did hum.
    I believe they were 32W.
    I just didn’t understand why they did not work in two different T8 fixtures. One on a single circuit the other has 6 light fixtures. the LED’s didn’t even flicker a twitch.
    I’ll stick with my T8’s for now till the cost drastically drops.

    I went to HD today and looked at these LED lights to replace my old Fluorescents. I just don’t see the warrant to do so based on the price of them and how little energy they save so I decided things are gonna stay as they are.

    I would say, keep what you got until it stops working. There is no savings in replacing things well before the life expectancy is done. If you have florescent tubes, just stick with it, change the tubes as they go unless you have a place to use the old ones. I never throw out functional items. I can’t afford that..lol.

    I’m having lighting issues now in my shop, One 8′ tube doesn’t work on a dual tube fixture. and 2 four footers won’t work on another one, These are both old fluorescent with ballast. I assumed it was the bulbs so I bought new ones and they still don’t work, So it must be the ballasts.

    My question is;

    Can I get LED bulbs for them that don’t need a working ballast and I’ll just bypass it??

    I did this in a couple lights at one of my old properties. Just cut out the ballast and re-wire and install the LED bubls and it worked for me. It has been awhile since I bought the 4ft LED bulbs but I know at the time they were a little pricey.

    Jim H.
    Milwaukee, WI

    #458788
    jim_hunt17
    Pro
    Milwaukee, WI

    I wonder if it was the type of ballast you have. Class A are typically in households and don’t hum. Class B hum you crazy unless they are used in noisy places anyways where their hum gets drowned out.

    How much were they Frank? And what’s the wattage on them?

    I’m noticing on some of the pics and what’s been written that they are at 32W replacing the old style 40W fluorescent. That’s not a big difference for that price diff. Hardly seems worth it. Or am I missing something or got something wrong?

    @Doobie,
    Ballast are no more than 6 months old, electronic for T8’s, no hum. They replaced the old magnetic T12 style that did hum.
    I believe they were 32W.
    I just didn’t understand why they did not work in two different T8 fixtures. One on a single circuit the other has 6 light fixtures. the LED’s didn’t even flicker a twitch.
    I’ll stick with my T8’s for now till the cost drastically drops.

    I went to HD today and looked at these LED lights to replace my old Fluorescents. I just don’t see the warrant to do so based on the price of them and how little energy they save so I decided things are gonna stay as they are.

    I would say, keep what you got until it stops working. There is no savings in replacing things well before the life expectancy is done. If you have florescent tubes, just stick with it, change the tubes as they go unless you have a place to use the old ones. I never throw out functional items. I can’t afford that..lol.

    I’m having lighting issues now in my shop, One 8′ tube doesn’t work on a dual tube fixture. and 2 four footers won’t work on another one, These are both old fluorescent with ballast. I assumed it was the bulbs so I bought new ones and they still don’t work, So it must be the ballasts.

    My question is;

    Can I get LED bulbs for them that don’t need a working ballast and I’ll just bypass it??

    I did this in a couple lights at one of my old properties. Just cut out the ballast and re-wire and install the LED bubls and it worked for me. It has been awhile since I bought the 4ft LED bulbs but I know at the time they were a little pricey.

    Jim H.
    Milwaukee, WI

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