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Fluorescent Light bay mystery

This topic contains 65 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by  gregmtrainer 9 months, 1 week ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 66 total)
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  • #596177

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    I was working on replacing some burnt out 4′ T8s today. I got to one that wouldn’t light, even when I put in a new bulb, but no problem, I moved another lamp that I know works to test it out – it worked. So I thought I just grabbed a lemon lamp and proceeded to fill the old space the testing lamp came from with a new lamp …now it didn’t work. I pulled all three lamps out of the fixture, move the two that I know work into the two weird locations. As I connect the outside lamp, everything is good, but as soon as I connected the middle one, the outside lamp shut off…what is going on?? The ballast is new, I checked all the connections from the ballast to each of the connectors that attach to the ends of the lamps…I’m stumped! The ballast is a four lamp ballast, rated for 32W T8s – so just right for this application…the only thing I found that was at all odd, was that there was a slight electrical hissing sound (like a very small short) when I pushed on part of the housing. Other than that, I had power everywhere, so I have no idea what’s going on. I’ve never had a ballast fail partially – when they go, everything goes. So it seems very odd.

    Charlie
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    #596182

    Is it possible that on the opposite end (yellow wires) you have one yellow feeding a red and blue instead of two blue from one yellow and one red? Without looking at the whole thing, this would be my guess.

    Anything is possible if your wallet is thick enough ~ my father

    #596184

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @gdhaywood hmm, it was set up with two reds on the same yellow and then a blue to the other yellow (and it’s a four lamp ballast, so the second blue was just capped) I re-wired it so that the outer red now goes to the previously capped blue but had to leave before I could see if that changed anything (it was the daycare’s nap time).

    Charlie
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    #596386

    Anonymous

    I’m having the same strange issues with a few fixtures in my shop, And it’s intermittent too. One dual 8’ftr has just one ballast but only one bulb will work, So think I’m having socket issues too…. I’m ready to get rid of all the florescent bulbs and go to LED kits, that way I can eliminate the ballasts completely and some of the LED kits I’ve seen come with new sockets too

    #596479

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @dabbs so weird.

    Yeah, I’ve seen a ton of different retrofit options for LEDs, but they’re all pretty expensive – but part of the problem is that this would be for work and I have something like 475 4′ tubes to replace if I started down that road…but I have been thinking about it on and off for the past two years, watching the prices come down little by little.

    Charlie
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    #596571

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    I’m ready to get rid of all the florescent bulbs and go to LED kits, that way I can eliminate the ballasts completely and some of the LED kits I’ve seen come with new sockets too

    That is the way to go and no humming either, plus they start right up in the cold. I would just get the lights myself rather than mess around with the kits.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #596605

    RonW
    Pro
    Holladay, Tn

    I’m ready to get rid of all the florescent bulbs and go to LED kits, that way I can eliminate the ballasts completely and some of the LED kits I’ve seen come with new sockets too

    That is the way to go and no humming either, plus they start right up in the cold. I would just get the lights myself rather than mess around with the kits.

    Me too Bill.
    I see Costco has a special on 4′ LED lights. 2 lights for $40.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #596658

    Boschmanbrian
    Pro
    Montreal , QC, Canada

    I’m ready to get rid of all the florescent bulbs and go to LED kits, that way I can eliminate the ballasts completely and some of the LED kits I’ve seen come with new sockets too

    That is the way to go and no humming either, plus they start right up in the cold. I would just get the lights myself rather than mess around with the kits.

    Me too Bill.
    I see Costco has a special on 4′ LED lights. 2 lights for $40.

    Thanks Ron, will have to take a trip out to the Costco around me to check that out,
    I tell you, at the shop / plant they started to change all the tube lighting for the new led, big difference.

    #596662

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    I’ve seen ones that are backwards compatible with the ballasts already in the fixture, and some of the prices seems pretty decent…I think the best I’ve seen was around $17 so it’s definitely come a long way from even a few years ago. And when a ballast cost just as much, I may as well swap them out and save on the long term maintenance too. Just hard to imagine replacing all those bulbs!

    Charlie
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    #596696

    RonW
    Pro
    Holladay, Tn

    Thanks Ron, will have to take a trip out to the Costco around me to check that out,
    I tell you, at the shop / plant they started to change all the tube lighting for the new led, big difference.

    Worth a shot. It might be an online only thing. I don’t remember for sure.

    I’ve seen ones that are backwards compatible with the ballasts already in the fixture, and some of the prices seems pretty decent…I think the best I’ve seen was around $17 so it’s definitely come a long way from even a few years ago. And when a ballast cost just as much, I may as well swap them out and save on the long term maintenance too. Just hard to imagine replacing all those bulbs!

    You have a bunch to swap out. I would do them as needed. Or a few a month.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #596777

    Anonymous

    I’m ready to get rid of all the florescent bulbs and go to LED kits, that way I can eliminate the ballasts completely and some of the LED kits I’ve seen come with new sockets too

    That is the way to go and no humming either, plus they start right up in the cold. I would just get the lights myself rather than mess around with the kits.

    Me too Bill.
    I see Costco has a special on 4′ LED lights. 2 lights for $40.

    Ron

    But, but, I like my fixtures lol. I’ve had them for over 20 years and got them out of an old Railroad shop they were tearing down, Not sure how old they are but I’d guess from the 50’s-60’s maybe. The building was dated 1916, Besides that it sounds easier to replace just the bulbs and reroute the wires to bypass the ballasts.

    Any suggestions on what LED bulbs to get? I want as bright and white as I can get, The charts have these numbers like 3000-4000-5000-6000 etc and talk about brightness but also the color blue comes into play. it’s all so confusing

    #596790

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @Dabbs The higher the number the more bright white to blue it gets. I always try to get the 2700K or 3000K for bulbs because that’s as close to candle light/ warm glow as they come (that I know of) and then for the lamps I get 3000k or 3500K for big rooms because that’s close to natural light. Higher than 3500 starts getting blue-ish. The ice blue/ white light (like those annoying blue halogens on cars) really bothers my eyes, so I tend to avoid anything even close to that.

    Charlie
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    #596794

    Anonymous

    Ok Thanks, So no higher then 3500. Will that be as bright as the florescents I’m using now? I’d hate to spend a bunch of money converting to LED and it not be as bright, Gotta have a nice Bright White shop…

    Yeah those blue headlights are strange to see on the road, I’ve never been in a car with them but always wondered if they put out better light. IF so it might be worth it. Anyone out there have them??

    #596866

    As for LED tubes, the higher the lumen output the brighter the light. 2700k is a warm white color approximately the same as traditional incandescent bulbs. 3500k is similar to halogen white. 4100k is the same color as cool white fluorescent. 5000k is a brighter white with 6500k being the blue-white closest to daylight.

    There are online retailers that have 2000 lumens, 18 watts, ballast bypass bulbs for $8.99 each. If you pay more than $10 for a non dimmable led tube, you are paying too much.

    Anything is possible if your wallet is thick enough ~ my father

    #596907

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    As for LED tubes, the higher the lumen output the brighter the light. 2700k is a warm white color approximately the same as traditional incandescent bulbs. 3500k is similar to halogen white. 4100k is the same color as cool white fluorescent. 5000k is a brighter white with 6500k being the blue-white closest to daylight.

    Thank you for the explanation. I always wondered about that.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #596975

    Anonymous

    for the lamps I get 3000k or 3500K for big rooms because that’s close to natural light. Higher than 3500 starts getting blue-ish.

    As for LED tubes, the higher the lumen output the brighter the light. 2700k is a warm white color approximately the same as traditional incandescent bulbs. 3500k is similar to halogen white. 4100k is the same color as cool white fluorescent. 5000k is a brighter white with 6500k being the blue-white closest to daylight.

    There are online retailers that have 2000 lumens, 18 watts, ballast bypass bulbs for $8.99 each. If you pay more than $10 for a non dimmable led tube, you are paying too much.

    Hmmm, I see opinions very on this a bit. I know yer both trying to help and I appreciate it very much. Thank You….

    I think I’ll buy three different ones. 3500, 4100 and a 5000. That way I can see what yous are talking about and pick the one I like the best, Then return the other two and buy the rest I need….Again, Thanks for the input……

    I hope I can find them for that kind of a price too, That seems well worth it to me. I need fourteen 4’s and two 8’s

    #596989

    Anonymous

    Ok, During my search I came across ‘Non-shunted’ lamp holders. Do I need these too?? Are my existing ‘Tombstones’ shuntless?? What is a shunt anyway?? Also what is a Lumens? I see the bulbs all have two ratings, Lumens & ‘K’. The Lumen rating can be 2000-2200ish for the same 5000K bulbs?? Now I’m all confused again lol

    #596995

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @dabbs I don’t know about shunts, but lumens is how bright it is and the K (Kelvin I think – temperature related) is the color or warmth of the glow. I may have been off the exact scale (more used to flourescent than LED) but the idea is the same – lower is more yellow and warm higher is more white/ blue and cold.

    Charlie
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    #596998

    Anonymous

    @dabbs I don’t know about shunts, but lumens is how bright it is and the K (Kelvin I think – temperature related) is the color or warmth of the glow. I may have been off the exact scale (more used to flourescent than LED) but the idea is the same – lower is more yellow and warm higher is more white/ blue and cold.

    Ohhh ok, So I should pay close attention to the Lumens since I want as bright as I can get. Then go somewhere in the middle to upper of the scale of ‘K’s to keep the color white too?? Boy, Think this is why I haven’t converted yet. Tooooo complicated lol

    #597007

    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    @dabbs a lot of places that sell these lights commercially have good displays that will give you a good idea of what the lamps put out. You could give that a try too. And sometimes shopping at a commercial retailer you’ll find better prices than if you shop at a big box. Not always, but it’s never bad to get a second opinion on cost, right?

    Charlie
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