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End grain cutting board through a thickness planer?

Viewing 16 posts - 41 through 56 (of 56 total)
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  • #552167
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    The board looks great, I have no idea how you got all those shapes to get tight.

    I’m sure that took a lot of work but the result is fantastic.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #552309
    gomoto69
    Pro
    salmon arm, bc

    The local hardware store had both finishes, the salad bowl oil i’m assuming is just mineral oil, poured it on and let it absorb all it could, then the beeswax, just smeared it on and let it dry a bit, then buffed it off. There is no glueing small pieces together, just strips maybe 1 1/2″ wide, it’s rearranging the strips and cutting on a slight angle that gives the broken up pattern, simple glue ups really

    #552317
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    Some salad bowl oil a final buff with some beeswax really brought out the colors, and a grapefruit and tequila shot is fitting i think!

    Excellent job on the board. Looks amazing.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #552321
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    The local hardware store had both finishes, the salad bowl oil i’m assuming is just mineral oil, poured it on and let it absorb all it could, then the beeswax, just smeared it on and let it dry a bit, then buffed it off. There is no glueing small pieces together, just strips maybe 1 1/2″ wide, it’s rearranging the strips and cutting on a slight angle that gives the broken up pattern, simple glue ups really

    so like this one?

    I may have to revisit the salad bowl finish, i’ve gone the mineral oil route and beeswax.

    #552350
    gomoto69
    Pro
    salmon arm, bc

    Just like that, it’s amazing how much finish the board absorbs. I’m not sure what all is in salad bowl finish, the label said a blend but didn’t say of what. I couldn’t find straight mineral oil, but i imagine it’s pretty much identical to what i used

    #552358
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    Just like that, it’s amazing how much finish the board absorbs. I’m not sure what all is in salad bowl finish, the label said a blend but didn’t say of what. I couldn’t find straight mineral oil, but i imagine it’s pretty much identical to what i used

    nah two different things. mineral oil is an oil. where salad bowl finish is a food safe when cured lacquer. Thats why when using it on cutting boards you don’t do what you normally do for lacquer and build layers. For mineral oil, go to your local drug store and they should sell big bottles for cheap.

    #552364

    Just like that, it’s amazing how much finish the board absorbs. I’m not sure what all is in salad bowl finish, the label said a blend but didn’t say of what. I couldn’t find straight mineral oil, but i imagine it’s pretty much identical to what i used

    nah two different things. mineral oil is an oil. where salad bowl finish is a food safe when cured lacquer. Thats why when using it on cutting boards you don’t do what you normally do for lacquer and build layers. For mineral oil, go to your local drug store and they should sell big bottles for cheap.

    Yup, its where they keep the laxatives

    Warm it slightly to thin it, and if you can warm the board a bit, the pores will be more open. Sitting it outside in strong sunlight is helpful, a warm (not hot) oven is good too. I preheat to 170F and turn off, then put the board in the oven a few minutes later

    #552365
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    Just like that, it’s amazing how much finish the board absorbs. I’m not sure what all is in salad bowl finish, the label said a blend but didn’t say of what. I couldn’t find straight mineral oil, but i imagine it’s pretty much identical to what i used

    nah two different things. mineral oil is an oil. where salad bowl finish is a food safe when cured lacquer. Thats why when using it on cutting boards you don’t do what you normally do for lacquer and build layers. For mineral oil, go to your local drug store and they should sell big bottles for cheap.

    Yup, its where they keep the laxatives

    Warm it slightly to thin it, and if you can warm the board a bit, the pores will be more open. Sitting it outside in strong sunlight is helpful, a warm (not hot) oven is good too. I preheat to 170F and turn off, then put the board in the oven a few minutes later

    so warming the mineral oil helps thin it out to soak in to the wood and warming the wood helps as well . I’ll have to give that a go for the next batch of cutting boards. I normally just pour the mineral oil on and do a few coats, then on towards mineral oil and beeswax mixture.

    #556581

    I’ll have to try warming it up, I’ve always used a home made version of a finish by combining local beeswax and mineral oil, it is a recipe I found on line and it works well and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the same thing sold by others.

    Will

    #556735
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    I’ll have to try warming it up, I’ve always used a home made version of a finish by combining local beeswax and mineral oil, it is a recipe I found on line and it works well and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the same thing sold by others.

    Could you possible post a link to the recipe ? I have been looking for beeswax so i can do the same, i usually shell out 20 bucks a bottle of mineral oil plus beeswax.

    #556904
    JimDaddyO
    Pro
    Wawa, ON

    I’ll have to try warming it up, I’ve always used a home made version of a finish by combining local beeswax and mineral oil, it is a recipe I found on line and it works well and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the same thing sold by others.

    Could you possible post a link to the recipe ? I have been looking for beeswax so i can do the same, i usually shell out 20 bucks a bottle of mineral oil plus beeswax.

    About 3 parts bees wax to 1 part mineral oil.

    YMMV, You may want it thinner (more oil) or thicker depending on the application. You can’t really go wrong as you can always add one or the other to suit your needs. I melt the wax on a warmer made for a coffee carafe. Shredding it first (you can use a grater from the kitchen as it is food safe) helps the process go a bit faster.

    If you melt the wax first, when you add the oil the wax will congeal into lumps in the solution, but it is easier the measure that way. As the oil warms it will melt in. You can always put the oil in first and judge how much the liquid rises as you add the shredded wax to the warm oil.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

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    #556906

    I’ll have to try warming it up, I’ve always used a home made version of a finish by combining local beeswax and mineral oil, it is a recipe I found on line and it works well and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the same thing sold by others.

    Could you possible post a link to the recipe ? I have been looking for beeswax so i can do the same, i usually shell out 20 bucks a bottle of mineral oil plus beeswax.

    About 3 parts bees wax to 1 part mineral oil.

    YMMV, You may want it thinner (more oil) or thicker depending on the application. You can’t really go wrong as you can always add one or the other to suit your needs. I melt the wax on a warmer made for a coffee carafe. Shredding it first (you can use a grater from the kitchen as it is food safe) helps the process go a bit faster.

    If you melt the wax first, when you add the oil the wax will congeal into lumps in the solution, but it is easier the measure that way. As the oil warms it will melt in. You can always put the oil in first and judge how much the liquid rises as you add the shredded wax to the warm oil.

    I do much the same, but using a metal mixing bowl over a bot of boiling water (double boiler)

    You can get the wax in small beads as well as blocks. The beads dissolve more quickly, and are about the same price. I often order mine through Amazon, and prefer white wax so as not to impart a tint in my work (I never got over my hatred/fear of the orange oak everything of my childhood)

    #556932
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    I’ll have to try warming it up, I’ve always used a home made version of a finish by combining local beeswax and mineral oil, it is a recipe I found on line and it works well and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the same thing sold by others.

    Could you possible post a link to the recipe ? I have been looking for beeswax so i can do the same, i usually shell out 20 bucks a bottle of mineral oil plus beeswax.

    About 3 parts bees wax to 1 part mineral oil.

    YMMV, You may want it thinner (more oil) or thicker depending on the application. You can’t really go wrong as you can always add one or the other to suit your needs. I melt the wax on a warmer made for a coffee carafe. Shredding it first (you can use a grater from the kitchen as it is food safe) helps the process go a bit faster.

    If you melt the wax first, when you add the oil the wax will congeal into lumps in the solution, but it is easier the measure that way. As the oil warms it will melt in. You can always put the oil in first and judge how much the liquid rises as you add the shredded wax to the warm oil.

    I do much the same, but using a metal mixing bowl over a bot of boiling water (double boiler)

    You can get the wax in small beads as well as blocks. The beads dissolve more quickly, and are about the same price. I often order mine through Amazon, and prefer white wax so as not to impart a tint in my work (I never got over my hatred/fear of the orange oak everything of my childhood)

    I never thought about ordering it inline as I’ve been meaning to go to a local farmers market to see what the honey salesman has. I also didn’t know about the white wax, didn’t realize there was a choice.

    #556951
    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    I’ll have to try warming it up, I’ve always used a home made version of a finish by combining local beeswax and mineral oil, it is a recipe I found on line and it works well and is a heck of a lot cheaper than the same thing sold by others.

    Could you possible post a link to the recipe ? I have been looking for beeswax so i can do the same, i usually shell out 20 bucks a bottle of mineral oil plus beeswax.

    About 3 parts bees wax to 1 part mineral oil.

    YMMV, You may want it thinner (more oil) or thicker depending on the application. You can’t really go wrong as you can always add one or the other to suit your needs. I melt the wax on a warmer made for a coffee carafe. Shredding it first (you can use a grater from the kitchen as it is food safe) helps the process go a bit faster.

    If you melt the wax first, when you add the oil the wax will congeal into lumps in the solution, but it is easier the measure that way. As the oil warms it will melt in. You can always put the oil in first and judge how much the liquid rises as you add the shredded wax to the warm oil.

    I do much the same, but using a metal mixing bowl over a bot of boiling water (double boiler)

    You can get the wax in small beads as well as blocks. The beads dissolve more quickly, and are about the same price. I often order mine through Amazon, and prefer white wax so as not to impart a tint in my work (I never got over my hatred/fear of the orange oak everything of my childhood)

    I never thought about ordering it inline as I’ve been meaning to go to a local farmers market to see what the honey salesman has. I also didn’t know about the white wax, didn’t realize there was a choice.

    One of our local honey suppliers in Millbank has beeswax in blocks as well; usually about $10 a pound. Let me know, I can have some for you when you come this way for your chain saw blades.

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    #565075
    cmeyer25
    Pro
    Bellingham, WA

    I’ve seen so many people make cutting boards – I really want to give it a try. I’m learning a bunch just following this thread, thanks guys! One question I have is that I’ve seen some people just dunk their boards to finish them. Is that any different than rubbing on the finish? It seems a whole lot faster than rubbing on the oil.

    Charlie
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    #565109
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    I’ve seen so many people make cutting boards – I really want to give it a try. I’m learning a bunch just following this thread, thanks guys! One question I have is that I’ve seen some people just dunk their boards to finish them. Is that any different than rubbing on the finish? It seems a whole lot faster than rubbing on the oil.

    Dunking the cutting board would work amazing. The only issue would be the amount you have to have on hand compared to just wiping it on. If you are doing like 10 or 20 boards at a time I would recommend dunking yo save time.

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