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a while backi had a thread about how common it is to see drywall returns on windows and interior doors..
i cant seem to find the thread so i started this one..
the question now is whats the actual cost comparison for these two methods.
theres a bit of tinkering around with drywall returns in order to get the padding on the framing perfect for fastening the drywall so it lines up perfect with the slots on vinyl windows… and then the time to apply bead.. then the time to bond it. let it dry, skim, then sand and skim again plus any touch ups
with trim i know personally it takes me on average 30-40 mintues to trim a standard size window start to finish
what are the numbers you guys typically work this out to being to charge a client, trim wise $75-90 time and material… drywall i dont have a clue
heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit
I don’t have specific figures, but we always felt it was a wash when compared to a picture frame trim job. We have done it both ways. You never seem to save as much time as you think you would doing drywall returns….that is doing them right with good reveal lines, tight corners, etc.
Andrew
A Working Pro since 1995!
Member since March 26, 2014.
I don’t have specific figures, but we always felt it was a wash when compared to a picture frame trim job. We have done it both ways. You never seem to save as much time as you think you would doing drywall returns….that is doing them right with good reveal lines, tight corners, etc.
Agreed. While drywall returns Look cheaper..,they really aren’t. It takes 10x more effort per square inch to do a good drywall return than does to drywall a flat surface. While the materials are cheaper, the labor required makes the cost equal to or more expensive than wood. Additionally, it won’t stand up to abuse like wood will.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramI deal with the drywall returns all the time and it’s the finishing them to the window frame that is a labor thing. After cutting the mess and cleaning it out of the way I caulk it with color matching caulk to the frame.
How are you guys doing it?Not being a production new home builder, I wouldn’t really know a cost difference.
Doing mostly remodel, I either follow what is already there, or go with wood trim. I have a strong distaste for drywall returns.
Shimming drywall is not nearly as easy as shimming wood trim, and you can’t pre-build a “box” out of drywall, like you can with wood.
Delta
Goin' Down In Flames........
In the great Frozen North, were we can get condensation on windows during the winter, The drywall turns to mush in no time.
Shop grade Birch for paint grade work is easy and probably as econo as you can get.
I think the labor associated with the casing job is about equal to the labor of the Drywall work. the way I see it the savings is in the material saved and the staining or painting of the material. Ordering a Vinyl window with out extension jambs saves 40 or 50 bucks alone, then the casing and finishing on top of that.
I think the big production builders just make the drywall subs eat the labor of the drywall and the finishing so they would save even more. Our taper would charge a little extra for the windows but I would still see a savings.
The drywall returns come out looking nice.
I think the labor associated with the casing job is about equal to the labor of the Drywall work. the way I see it the savings is in the material saved and the staining or painting of the material. Ordering a Vinyl window with out extension jambs saves 40 or 50 bucks alone, then the casing and finishing on top of that.
I think the big production builders just make the drywall subs eat the labor of the drywall and the finishing so they would save even more. Our taper would charge a little extra for the windows but I would still see a savings.
That is absolutely correct. Labor wise it seems like a wash at best. Not having the cost of the hardwood trim, plus the cost of painting/staining is the difference. I would think at best $15-$20 per window.
I deal with the drywall returns all the time and it’s the finishing them to the window frame that is a labor thing. After cutting the mess and cleaning it out of the way I caulk it with color matching caulk to the frame.
How are you guys doing it?I agree , there is a lot more time when it comes to mudding them and sanding them compared to trimming them with wood .
kurt@welkerhomes.com wrote:I think the labor associated with the casing job is about equal to the labor of the Drywall work. the way I see it the savings is in the material saved and the staining or painting of the material. Ordering a Vinyl window with out extension jambs saves 40 or 50 bucks alone, then the casing and finishing on top of that.
I think the big production builders just make the drywall subs eat the labor of the drywall and the finishing so they would save even more. Our taper would charge a little extra for the windows but I would still see a savings.
That is absolutely correct. Labor wise it seems like a wash at best. Not having the cost of the hardwood trim, plus the cost of painting/staining is the difference. I would think at best $15-$20 per window.
I would figure about double that with staining and then the cost of the extension jambs on top, but still not much over 60 to 75 bucks a Window. the plan I am working on now would only have 7 04 8 windows so a savings in the 500 bucks range. In our area it would not be a wise savings to try to make. Drywall returns seem very entry level or apartment grade to me. If I were building row houses, affordable housing or apartments, I would probably take the savings.
Now I did bullnose returns on my own house when I built it. We did it because we wanted a more modern clean look. The wifey isn’t a big trim fan 🙁 . But I do like bullnose or chamfer returns.
To get my corners perfect I made a bullnose piece of 2x that I could set the TrimTex vinyl bullnose on and cut it with a miter saw to get caulkless miters.
Andrew
A Working Pro since 1995!
Member since March 26, 2014.
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it seems all the architects are going for the commercial look in homes… its definitely true that they dont hold up… especially in colder climates.. i dont know how many windows i saw with crumbling drywall returns when i worked at the university… the gc is trying to convince the architect to nix the drywall returns on this house though.. they just dont hold up the same
heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit
I’m with Kurt, the labor is about equal (unless it is stain grade), and the extra cost is in the materials.
Mark E.
Pioneer, CA
Working Pro 1972 - 2015
Member since Jan 22, 2013
www.creative-redwood-designs.comthank you for starting this thread.
Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle.
Michael AngeloNow I did bullnose returns on my own house when I built it. We did it because we wanted a more modern clean look. The wifey isn’t a big trim fan
. But I do like bullnose or chamfer returns. To get my corners perfect I made a bullnose piece of 2x that I could set the TrimTex vinyl bullnose on and cut it with a miter saw to get caulkless miters.
That came out looking good. So that’s 2x with a turned edge, and you drywalled right up to it and mudded it in , sand to perfection and whamo.
thank you for starting this thread.
What
Now I did bullnose returns on my own house when I built it. We did it because we wanted a more modern clean look. The wifey isn’t a big trim fan
. But I do like bullnose or chamfer returns. To get my corners perfect I made a bullnose piece of 2x that I could set the TrimTex vinyl bullnose on and cut it with a miter saw to get caulkless miters.
That came out looking good. So that’s 2x with a turned edge, and you drywalled right up to it and mudded it in , sand to perfection and whamo.
I think he just used the 2x on the mitre saw to make the cuts in the bullnose
I did some that were bullnose sides and top, with a wood stool. It was a deep return, and the wood made it so they could set plants on it without worrying about water.
I thought it looked pretty good
--Steve
I think he just used the 2x on the mitre saw to make the cuts in the bullnose
Oh thanks,, I needed to go reread that one.. that’s a great idea.
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