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Drywall mud ..

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  • #514919

    Ive been doing mudding for many years both here in Canada and back in Scotland. I have always used a fast set compound to start with the gauze tape first then move on to the drywall mud as soon as I have all the fast set done, but only just recently I have started to do two layers of fast set and noticed an marked improvement and speed of the finish. You just have to make sure you knock down all you high spots and rough areas before applying the second layer of the fast set. (Durabond or whatever)

    What do others here do?

    Carpenter and Joiner

    Joiner ... a person who constructs the wooden components of a building, such as stairs, doors, and door and window frames.

    Carpenter ... cutting, shaping and installation of building materials during the construction of buildings, ships, timber bridges, concrete formwork.

    1970 ... to present.

    #514935
    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    I personally still use paper tape. I have had to repair jobs that used mesh tape due to hairline cracks.

    #514937
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    Same here. I fill and tape with Easysand (45/90) then hit the joints the same mud again. After that I use the blue lid lightweight and then a topping compound for the final coat.

    FibaFuse on all of the flats and paper in the corners… It is more forgiving if I hit it with the joint knife.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #514941
    ChadM
    Moderator
    Rogers, Ohio

    I use hot mud (durobond) for everything except the final coat, then I use bucket mud. I use FIBA Fibafuse on my flat joints and Perfect 90 on my inside corners.

    Chad

    A Working Pro since 1993

    Member since 12/07/2013

    #514946

    I use hot mud (durobond) for everything except the final coat, then I use bucket mud. I use FIBA Fibafuse on my flat joints and Perfect 90 on my inside corners.

    I wanted to go to the prefect 90 on my last job but the lad i’m working with (his company) went against me.

    Thanks for the replies.

    Carpenter and Joiner

    Joiner ... a person who constructs the wooden components of a building, such as stairs, doors, and door and window frames.

    Carpenter ... cutting, shaping and installation of building materials during the construction of buildings, ships, timber bridges, concrete formwork.

    1970 ... to present.

    #514951
    r-ice
    Pro
    Durham region, ON

    I use the mesh self adhesive tape then bucket mud. I wouldn’t mind trying hot mud but what I am kidding, I hate sanding drywall lol

    #514960
    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    Whats perfect 90? Pre formed inside corners?

    I do 20/45 then blue but find I found I will get myself in trouble sometimes doing it.

    We all know setting compounds dont sand as easy as LW thats why we skim with it but…..I think you can see through the light weight to the setting underneath sometimes and have sand of my LW on the feather edge leaving a slight transition.

    Anyone run into that? Then I am skimming over primer to loose the edge if that happened.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #514968

    Whats perfect 90? Pre formed inside corners?

    I do 20/45 then blue but find I found I will get myself in trouble sometimes doing it.

    We all know setting compounds dont sand as easy as LW thats why we skim with it but…..I think you can see through the light weight to the setting underneath sometimes and have sand of my LW on the feather edge leaving a slight transition.

    Anyone run into that? Then I am skimming over primer to loose the edge if that happened.

    https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en_CA_east/products-solutions/products/finishes/corner-beads-&-trim/strait-flex®-perfect-90/_jcr_content/prodgal/prodgallerypar/productgalleryimage/image.img.jpg/1416258037616.jpg/_jcr_content/renditions/cq5dam.thumbnail.48.48.png

    Carpenter and Joiner

    Joiner ... a person who constructs the wooden components of a building, such as stairs, doors, and door and window frames.

    Carpenter ... cutting, shaping and installation of building materials during the construction of buildings, ships, timber bridges, concrete formwork.

    1970 ... to present.

    #514986
    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Moderator
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    What little we tape, we use fast set for the first coat or two. it speeds up the process significantly. I had a taper that refused to use it for his corners and always complained that they took 2 days to dry. I bought him a bag and made him use on a job. he came back and thanked me later saying that it was incredible that he was able to get 2 coats on the corners in a day instead of 3 days. He used it on every job after that.

    Old habits are hard to break.

    #515019
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    I personally still use paper tape. I have had to repair jobs that used mesh tape due to hairline cracks.

    I have always used fiber tape on joints and paper in corners. Have not had any issues with hairline cracks.
    Stick to easy sand compounds, as I try to keep the sanding to a minimum.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #515058
    ChadM
    Moderator
    Rogers, Ohio

    Whats perfect 90? Pre formed inside corners?

    I use the Straight Flex…they have several great products. Here is a link to their website: http://www.straitflex.com

    Paul Peck has a couple videos on his YouTube channel showing him using some Straight Flex products.

    Chad

    A Working Pro since 1993

    Member since 12/07/2013

    #515118
    Austin
    Pro
    Covington, KY

    I personally still use paper tape. I have had to repair jobs that used mesh tape due to hairline cracks.

    I have always used fiber tape on joints and paper in corners. Have not had any issues with hairline cracks.
    Stick to easy sand compounds, as I try to keep the sanding to a minimum.

    I have seen the cracking with the mesh tape as well, that stuff is actually for a calcoat. A lot of our jobs are plaster.

    #515129
    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    Whats perfect 90? Pre formed inside corners?

    I use the Straight Flex…they have several great products. Here is a link to their website: http://www.straitflex.com

    Paul Peck has a couple videos on his YouTube channel showing him using some Straight Flex products.

    I know straight flex brand. I have a roll I use for angles. I will check it out.

    A great benefit to fast setting is not limited to the time but the durability.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #515159
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Durabond to set the mesh tape (preferred) and the lighter stuff for the remainder.

    #515241
    CrpntrFeak
    Pro
    Globe, AZ

    It all depends on what I need to do.

    Small patches is 5 minute mud all the way till texture.

    Bigger patches or a couple patches I’ll prefill with 5/20 mud then finish them out with 20.

    Multiple patches I’ll prefill with 20 minute and tape with AP. The climate here will allow the tape to dry in a reasonable amount of time if there are multiple patches to do. Plus I can use my banjo to speed things up even more. Then I’ll finish coating everything with larger batches of 45 minute.

    90 minute mud for the most part is useless here. AP will dry almost as fast.

    For large projects it is AP all the way through. I never use Lightweight/topping. I don’t feel it can take a beating like AP can.

    #515293
    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    For large projects it is AP all the way through. I never use Lightweight/topping. I don’t feel it can take a beating like AP can.

    Until it’s primed LW is easily scared. I hear ya.

    I don’t know how you do so much with 5min. I use it for already finished work with nail pops or site generated bruises. The time lost to cleaning & mixing alone I would rather use hot water in 20

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #515297

    For a larger job it is AP for the first couple coats and Topping to finish. For smaller jobs I will mix up some 90 for the first coat and finish with ap and topping. Large voids or gaps are pre-filled with 20 minute before taping.

    For repairs 5/20/90 minute depending on the situation.

    I like paper tape or Fiberfuse. Paper for the inside corners for sure. Straightflex for non 90 degree corners.

    I HATE the self adhesive mesh tape.

    Andrew

    A Working Pro since 1995!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #515300
    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    What’s wrong with self adhered? The occasional stray hair as sucks but on flats it saves time. (Repairs)

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #515301
    CrpntrFeak
    Pro
    Globe, AZ

    Ah yes…..tape.

    I don’t use mesh….ever. That is a whole thread on it’s own.lol Paper tape everywhere for me.

    I have used FibaFuse and really like it but there is not a place for 50 miles that carries it. I would use the heck out of it for patches. Don’t ever put a piece of it in your pocket…..it doesn’t feel good at all…..no I don’t want to talk about it. Lol

    #515308

    What’s wrong with self adhered? The occasional stray hair as sucks but on flats it saves time. (Repairs)

    To me the strength in a joint comes from “gluing” the paper tape to the drywall with mud. Mesh just doesn’t achieve that. FF is a good balance but I still only use it for patch work. New work gets paper.

    Andrew

    A Working Pro since 1995!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

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