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I thought I would start a thread separate from the review suggestions thread where I’ll post all the DP Shop Talk videos as they are released. I’ll also post each video in a relevant existing thread if there is one.
Here is the Bandsaw Basics video that was just released today. I hope you guys find it helpful and especially those of you that requested this topic. Let me know what you think and if you have any questions.
Dan
danpattison.com
That was a excellent video Dan. I learned a couple of things I hadn’t seen elsewhere. Blade drift being the main one, though I haven’t noticed a problem on my bandsaw.
One thing that I have heard that you didn’t mention, is the actual position of the blade on the wheels. You said you center the blade on the wheel. I had heard that you center the teeth on the wheel. Any thoughts on that?
Though I change my blade like you, one expert mentioned removing the table to adjust your blade guides. Allows you to see the bottom guides much easier.
On this forum, we have had the discussion whether or not to relieve the tension on the blade, when not in use. I haven’t seen mention of this in my manual or other video’s I’ve watched. May I ask where you have heard or read about this.
What happened to the mustache?
Mark E.
Pioneer, CA
Working Pro 1972 - 2015
Member since Jan 22, 2013
www.creative-redwood-designs.comNice video Dan!
Thanks Kevin!
That was a excellent video Dan. I learned a couple of things I hadn’t seen elsewhere. Blade drift being the main one, though I haven’t noticed a problem on my bandsaw.
One thing that I have heard that you didn’t mention, is the actual position of the blade on the wheels. You said you center the blade on the wheel. I had heard that you center the teeth on the wheel. Any thoughts on that?
Though I change my blade like you, one expert mentioned removing the table to adjust your blade guides. Allows you to see the bottom guides much easier.
On this forum, we have had the discussion whether or not to relieve the tension on the blade, when not in use. I haven’t seen mention of this in my manual or other video’s I’ve watched. May I ask where you have heard or read about this.
What happened to the mustache?
Thanks Mark! As far as blade drift goes if your saw is set up well the angle that you find for it should be pretty slight. My fence isn’t set far off of straight in the video.
I think you’ve been watching the Alex Snodgrass video. I hadn’t seen that video myself until a few days ago. He definitely had some interesting ideas and throws the text book out the window. I’ve always tracked my blades in the middle of the wheel like I said in the video and was taught that way. Putting the teeth in the middle of the wheel instead like Alex said makes sense as far as support for the teeth but I would have to experiment with it to see if it makes any difference.
As for removing the table it does make it easier to see the guides but personally I don’t think it’s worth the hassle unless you’re doing a major overhaul like I did a few years ago. It is more confined adjusting the lower guides with the table on but I’ve never found it to be that difficult especially with the remote control type adjustment knobs on the Delta saw. Again personal preference.
Taking the tension off the blade when you aren’t using the saw is something that I’ve always done and I think I first read that in the Band Saw Handbook by Mark Douginske and the Care and Repair of Shop Machines by John White that I mentioned in the video. It saves extra wear and stress on the tension spring, tires, blade and frame. Some people don’t bother but for the little bit of time it takes I’ve always figured why not.
The beard went away a couple years ago because I couldn’t get a good seal with my mask or respirator…plus my wife was getting tired of it.
Dan
danpattison.com
On this forum, we have had the discussion whether or not to relieve the tension on the blade, when not in use. I haven’t seen mention of this in my manual or other video’s I’ve watched. May I ask where you have heard or read about this.
I have read this many times as well. Some will say it matters moreso with larger width blades and narrower ones you needn’t bother. While I keep a 3/8ths inch width blade on normally and only use wider ones as needed and immediately change back to my normal blade once I’m finished, I never untention my blade and have never had a problem in the 15 years since I’ve owned my bandsaw. Still, I don’t know what to believe.
On this forum, we have had the discussion whether or not to relieve the tension on the blade, when not in use. I haven’t seen mention of this in my manual or other video’s I’ve watched. May I ask where you have heard or read about this.
I have read this many times as well. Some will say it matters moreso with larger width blades and narrower ones you needn’t bother. While I keep a 3/8ths inch width blade on normally and only use wider ones as needed and immediately change back to my normal blade once I’m finished, I never untention my blade and have never had a problem in the 15 years since I’ve owned my bandsaw. Still, I don’t know what to believe.
I think there’s some truth to that Kevin. The wider the blade the more tension and therefor the more strain on the saw and components. I don’t back my tension off all the way, I just take it down to a low setting.
Dan
danpattison.com
Thanks, Dan, nice video.
Looks like you’re becoming more comfortable with being in front of the camera.I have been following Alex Snodgrass’s approach to centre the wheel at the bottom of the gullet with excellent results. Doesn’t matter much with the 1/4 and 3/8″ blades but I think it helps tracking with wider resaw blades.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.Well made video Dan. Thank you for sharing with us!
My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA
I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.
Thanks for the detailed video on the bandsaw . Shop looks really clean and organized too .
Always willing to learn .
I had heard that you center the teeth on the wheel. Any thoughts on that?
I never run my blades with the teeth centered. The tires have a slight crown and running the teeth centered will just cause wear on the tires
I think we have the next Norm Abrams
Great video Dan !He needs to add the tool safety warning at the start…..”Let’s talk a minute about shop safety…..”. Lol!
Great video Dan, looking forward to others you create. Very informative and I will reference when the time comes to overhaul my bandsaw.
Have you any thoughts on the 6″ extensions that are on the market?
“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingThanks guys! I really appreciate all the comments and feedback.
I think we have the next Norm Abrams
Great video Dan !lol thanks John. If you look close at the wall in the background you’ll see an autographed black & white picture of Norm. He sent that to me years ago when I was in junior high and was writing a biography on him for a school project.
The video looks great,,
Every great video tool guy needs a good assistant….Thanks Dirty, maybe Pamela will join me for an episode or two… 😛
Great video Dan, looking forward to others you create. Very informative and I will reference when the time comes to overhaul my bandsaw.
Have you any thoughts on the 6″ extensions that are on the market?
Thanks Frank. I have looked at the frame extensions before but since the standard frame height has done just about all of my cutting needs I’ve never bothered. Adding a riser block takes away from some of the rigidity of the frame too. I think if I needed to do a lot of tall resawing or cutting thick stock I would probably get a bigger bandsaw. On the topic of frames, when I did the tear down I took the joint apart in the frame and scraped all the paint off on the mating surfaces like John White shows. It was amazing the difference that makes in how solid the joint in the frame is and overall vibration.
Dan
danpattison.com
On the topic of frames, when I did the tear down I took the joint apart in the frame and scraped all the paint off on the mating surfaces like John White shows. It was amazing the difference that makes in how solid the joint in the frame is and overall vibration.
Dan, Thanks.
I will make sure I take a wire wheel to the joint areas of the frame when I have it all apart. I did buy an extension for it and will insert it. Guess I’ll see then how stable the frame is. If I fell it isn’t working well I can easily take it out.“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingThanks Dirty, maybe Pamela will join me for an episode or two…
NOoooo she’s too old already,, you need to find a fresh new one.
On the topic of frames, when I did the tear down I took the joint apart in the frame and scraped all the paint off on the mating surfaces like John White shows. It was amazing the difference that makes in how solid the joint in the frame is and overall vibration.
Thanks for that, Dan, it’s something I would not have considered. Hard to imagine why those surfaces would be painted in the first place.
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.
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