September 25, 2013 at 9:31 am #43516
I’m demo-ing a bath in a 90 yr old bungalow and need to expand through the wall into the adjoining closet.
My experience with plaster & lath has been less than great. What tools & techniques are best for cutting a floor-to-ceiling line in order to reuse part of an existing wall?
For specifics, pictures are attached.
The original bath is 5’6″ x 7′. All interior walls are gutted to the studs (in progress).
The plan is to cut through a portion of the right wall – see the pic of the plan – to allow a 5′ tub and have a sink/vanity that is centered on the left window.
I can work on the back side of the plaster wall that is inside the closet of a bedroom – see the picture of this wall from the gutted bathroom side.
The rectangular room will be expanded through a portion of – not the entire – wall length. So I need to cut that plaster!
Thanks – Robert
Attachments:September 27, 2013 at 9:28 pm #44287MrToolJunkiePro
I think I would try a grinder. I have been able to make reasonable cuts using one in plaster with a diamond blade. I am sure more experience folks will chime in.
Orange County, CASeptember 27, 2013 at 9:31 pm #44288
Hate to state the obvious but if you cut the plaster at the inside of the studs the stud spacing where you use it will have to be narrower that where you cut it from.September 28, 2013 at 12:33 am #44301
And I hate to be obtuse – but I’m not sure what you’re getting at.September 28, 2013 at 4:41 am #44315jkirkModeratorhalifax, nova scotia
cutting the plaster where its going to end with a grinder will work but its extremely dusty.. if your going to do it this way make sure you plastic off the room extremely well . and open the window and set up a large fan blowing outwards to suck the dust out of the room
heres a tip, dont fart in a space suitSeptember 28, 2013 at 8:20 am #44333
You may be planning on doing different than I am thinking. I was thinking that if you cut the plaster and lathe between two studs with 16″ on center and then try and put it back on studs with the same spacing there will be no way to nail it to the studs, it will just fall through the opening. The new spacing would have to be 14 1/2″ on center for the plaster section to nail up correctly.
Like I said you may have something completely different in mind. I just know sometimes I forget the obvious details much to my detriment. I spent 5 hours hanging one door slab last night because I forgot to check the opening for square at the begining.October 23, 2013 at 2:04 pm #50575RobProBirmingham, Alabama
I use a small 5″ diamond blade tile saw. Wear goggles and have someone mist the cut with water (after you build a plastic tent.)
By the way is their Lead paint on those walls?October 23, 2013 at 4:34 pm #50600FLAUERProMENOMONEE FALLS, WI
I once had a similar situation but decided to demo the whole wall and sheet rock it. I figured it would save time and agony in the long run. Is this a possibility in your case?October 24, 2013 at 5:21 pm #50999
Thanks to all for responding. Let me reply:
You wrote, “and then try and put it back on studs with the same spacing there will be no way to nail it to the studs, it will just fall through the opening.” I’m not sure what “it” means. I feel your pain about the door, though.
I understand about the dust. However, instead of opening windows I do the reverse – eliminate air flow. I wore a respirator and shut the windows so the dust wouldn’t blow around much and hopefully settle faster & more locally. But I understand your approach.
In this 89y.o. house, I’m sure the walls had some lead paint. Respirator (not the paper kind, the canister kind) has been my friend during many projects.
YES! I was fretting about a closet wall and such a small section that it wasn’t worth any extra effort to save it (about 20″ wide).
In any case, I used a Fein oscillating tool with a dull blade to score a line through the hard plaster, then broke away the trash side. The grey under coat (not the hard, white plaster) crumbled at the line. I pulled enough plaster away at the cut line to get a sawblade only on lath.
I then used a sharp, long Sawzall blade at as low an angle to minimize push & pull on the lath. It worked well. I then pulled away the trash side of lath & plaster, letting the plaster fall off the lath and then pulled the lath off the studs.
I was hoping to salvage the ceiling plaster, but it turns out a skylight is going in and the ceiling drywall will mount to the roof rafters for a cathedral ceiling.
Time to get back to work!
Thanks for your comments, and feel free to reply.November 1, 2013 at 11:46 am #53210
Let us know how things work out for you, and any tips you might have. In the past, I’ve used a grinder, but maybe there’s a better way…November 1, 2013 at 11:49 am #53212
I always use a skill saw with a masonry blade .It is dusty but works well .November 1, 2013 at 11:53 am #53214
Yeah, John, I guess I’ve done that too. Makes quite the mess, though. 🙂November 1, 2013 at 12:04 pm #53217
I have a Ridgid air filtration system that sucks the dust up pretty fast .November 1, 2013 at 12:05 pm #53218
Now that’s what I need…A filtration system.November 1, 2013 at 12:16 pm #53223SprokitzProEastern shore of, Pa
I’ve done exactly this quite a few times. On the lath side run a few rows of expanding foam on either side of where you need to cut. After it’s fully cured it will lock all the lath together, then you can cut on the plaster side with a sabre saw without the vibration breaking everythingNovember 1, 2013 at 12:22 pm #53224
I wonder if duct tape or tuck tape would work to keep everything in place.November 1, 2013 at 12:23 pm #53225
Not a bad idea. It’s good to get new ideas like this; thanks, Charles! I’d have never thought of that!November 1, 2013 at 12:25 pm #53226
Yeah, John. It’s possible. Something else to try. I think the vibration and shaking is what kills it, so eliminate that and things should go fine.November 1, 2013 at 2:31 pm #53262
Duct tape would be a good idea if you can get it to stick. Duct tape often won’t stick to dusty surfaces.
Charles that is an excellent idea with the expanding foam. Kinda a play on the plaster paris palentologists use to imobolize fossils for transport.November 1, 2013 at 3:29 pm #53276RobProBirmingham, Alabama
Both good ideas and the plaster of paris would be cheaper and set faster.
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