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Cleaning 10" Saw Blades

This topic contains 66 replies, has 23 voices, and was last updated by  Doobie 4 months, 2 weeks ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 67 total)
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  • #582275

    Warren6810
    Pro
    Akron, OH

    I have also heard that the oven cleaner can loosen the teeth. I really need to find something. I have a stack of 10 and 12 inch blades that likely numbers 30 or 40. Most of our work is framing and exterior trim, so we generally don’t spend more than $30 per blade. Most times I just grab a new one when the older one gets dull.

    #582279

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    I have also heard that the oven cleaner can loosen the teeth. I really need to find something. I have a stack of 10 and 12 inch blades that likely numbers 30 or 40.

    Soak in WD-40. You can buy it by the gallon.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #582284

    Warren6810
    Pro
    Akron, OH

    I have also heard that the oven cleaner can loosen the teeth. I really need to find something. I have a stack of 10 and 12 inch blades that likely numbers 30 or 40.

    Soak in WD-40. You can buy it by the gallon.

    Is it environmentally safe to dispose of the WD40 after this? OR just dump it back into the container for reuse later?

    #582569

    Doobie
    Pro

    I have also heard that the oven cleaner can loosen the teeth. I really need to find something. I have a stack of 10 and 12 inch blades that likely numbers 30 or 40.

    Soak in WD-40. You can buy it by the gallon.

    Is it environmentally safe to dispose of the WD40 after this?

    That’s one of the reasons I like the Washing Soda solution. No guilt pouring it down the drain or the hassle of properly disposing of.

    #582574

    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    so…heres either the dumbest question ill ask or the best… based on the topic thread title is there a differetn method for cleaning other size blades

    as for wire brushes.. do you guys just buy them at the dollar store or do you shell out the extra money and buy them in the paint section of your hardware store.. i can get a 8 pack for $ 3 at the dollar store as opposed to about $5 for one at hd

    heres a tip, dont fart in a space suit

    #582578

    so…heres either the dumbest question ill ask or the best… based on the topic thread title is there a differetn method for cleaning other size blades

    as for wire brushes.. do you guys just buy them at the dollar store or do you shell out the extra money and buy them in the paint section of your hardware store.. i can get a 8 pack for $ 3 at the dollar store as opposed to about $5 for one at hd

    I get my brushes at the dollar store. They are like over sized tooth brushes and come in a 3 pack with a nylon, a brass and a stainless one. I use brass and nylon ones because I am sure that they are softer than the metal I am cleaning. If something wears out prematurely I want it to be the bristles, not the blade plate or the solder that holds the teeth on.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #582590

    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    so…heres either the dumbest question ill ask or the best… based on the topic thread title is there a differetn method for cleaning other size blades

    as for wire brushes.. do you guys just buy them at the dollar store or do you shell out the extra money and buy them in the paint section of your hardware store.. i can get a 8 pack for $ 3 at the dollar store as opposed to about $5 for one at hd

    LOL I can address that question, Jeff. The food service pail lid I used was just the perfect size for a 10″ blade.

    I use the dollar store brushes as well, IMO no sense wasting money on the high priced hardware store item; they both do the same job.

    There are only two ways to do things; the right way and again.

    #582592

    Sprokitz
    Pro
    Eastern shore of, Pa

    I also use the dollar store or HF brushes, but…. I have had one with a wooden handle forever, much higher quality than the others. It has outlasted dozens of the cheapos. Just don’t know where I got it

    #582616

    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    I pick up the cheap brass brush at Princess Auto in the welding section. They tend to last longer than the dollar store brushes. The bristles are longer and a larger plastic handle.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #582690

    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    I never take the time to take the blade off the tool. I just put some thinner or acetone or something nasty on a rag and touch it to the spinning blade.

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #582696

    RonW
    Pro
    Holladay, Tn

    I never take the time to take the blade off the tool. I just put some thinner or acetone or something nasty on a rag and touch it to the spinning blade.

    Might not be the safest, but sounds like the fastest way Dirty.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #582783

    I never take the time to take the blade off the tool. I just put some thinner or acetone or something nasty on a rag and touch it to the spinning blade.

    That is how we used to clean the blade on the meat slicer at the restaurant. Of course we used a more food safe cleaner though. I hated putting a rag to that spinning blade meant specifically to cut meat. My fingers have meat on them.

    My You Tube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCA5AretE3xPoVDV61AxUdUA

    I don't do a fast job. I don't do a slow job. I do a half fast job.

    #582789

    Doobie
    Pro

    I never take the time to take the blade off the tool. I just put some thinner or acetone or something nasty on a rag and touch it to the spinning blade.

    A powered spinning blade? Or just spun by hand?

    I set for an overnite soak in washing soda my TS75 track saw general purpose blade last night. Man was it ever overdue. Gonna go check on it this morning. I don’t think I’ve ever let a blade get that cruded.

    #582796

    smallerstick
    Pro
    North Bay, ON

    I never take the time to take the blade off the tool. I just put some thinner or acetone or something nasty on a rag and touch it to the spinning blade.

    That is how we used to clean the blade on the meat slicer at the restaurant. Of course we used a more food safe cleaner though. I hated putting a rag to that spinning blade meant specifically to cut meat. My fingers have meat on them.

    I’ve seen that done and it always gives me shivers just to watch.

    There are only two ways to do things; the right way and again.

    #582801

    Doobie
    Pro

    I set for an overnite soak in washing soda my TS75 track saw general purpose blade last night. Man was it ever overdue. Gonna go check on it this morning. I don’t think I’ve ever let a blade get that cruded.

    Not gonna lie, the washing soda wasn’t powerful enough. Gonna move on to something else. Just too much crud. I should have never let it go this bad.

    The blade needs resharpening as well and fortunately I have a spare brand new one.

    #582813

    Doobie
    Pro

    I set for an overnite soak in washing soda my TS75 track saw general purpose blade last night. Man was it ever overdue. Gonna go check on it this morning. I don’t think I’ve ever let a blade get that cruded.

    Not gonna lie, the washing soda wasn’t powerful enough. Gonna move on to something else. Just too much crud. I should have never let it go this bad.

    The blade needs resharpening as well and fortunately I have a spare brand new one.

    Didn’t have any methyl hydrate, nor was I overly comfortable using that, but I did use some xylene which got rid of some, and then moved on to this old bottle of Flyte blade cleaner. The Flyte product worked a lot better and less fumes although still needs some good air circulation in using. Still, while the thick crud is all gone, there is still some left. Trying a citrus-solve product to see if that can work now to finish it off. I’ll let it soak in for 20 30 mins like I did the previous two.

    Seriously, this blade was super cruded and obviously overdue. Never had a blade get that bad. Is it maybe because I’ve been using it a lot to cut some PT ply lately?

    While washing soda has worked for me in the past, it didn’twork this time even with overnite soaking. Just too much build up on this one or it can’t effectively deal with the type of crud/resin on this one.

    #582829

    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    A powered spinning blade? Or just spun by hand?

    Just a spinning blade

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #582846

    Doobie
    Pro

    A powered spinning blade? Or just spun by hand?

    Just a spinning blade

    Good. You had me concerned a bit there and I wasn’t certain 100%. There’s some devillishly dangerous tricks/techniques handed down some times from some of the old timers out there.

    Trying a citrus-solve product to see if that can work now to finish it off. I’ll let it soak in for 20 30 mins like I did the previous two.

    Did that, no real improvement.

    Went back to the Flyte blade cleaner product, but this time it’ll soak for hours. I’ll update again later.

    I think one of the culprits is that I had been burning the blade yesterday trying to do some cuts in stressed spf wood and may have cooked the snot out of the resin that was already heavily built up. I was doing 15in long angle cuts to bevel the 2X6 trusses I needed to install. There was a lot of tension in some of those cuts as the wood sometimes would be squeezing behind closed as I got halfway thru.

    I basically had to stop using my Festool TS75 track saw with that blade as it was bogging down in the cuts and moved to free hand cutting with my Bosch 18V cordless I just bought recently. It would struggle too, but I just kept reapplying to make my cuts eventually complete despite the track saw is a much more powerful saw, the Bosch was more manageable in this situation.

    #582877

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    I think one of the culprits is that I had been burning the blade yesterday trying to do some cuts in stressed spf wood and may have cooked the snot out of the resin that was already heavily built up.

    Cooked resin is tough to remove. Need something strong to loosen it up, lacquer thinner or acetone would work.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #582933

    Doobie
    Pro

    Went back to the Flyte blade cleaner product, but this time it’ll soak for hours. I’ll update again later.

    Scrubed it again after letting it soak for about 3 hours in the Flyte blade cleaner product, put it back in for more soaking for another hour and a half in the same stuff with more solution while I went to HD and then scrubbed it one last time.

    This is the best it came out. Just basically blemishes of the crud that was there. You cannot feel any surface residual running your fingernail over the blemish marks whatsoever.

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