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Changing door slabs

This topic contains 25 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Skillman 1 week, 3 days ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 26 total)
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  • #639317

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    So I have about 18 hollow core door slabs I am going to swap out with solid doors. The existing doors are only 2 hinges and I am adding a third hinge.

    So I am trying to figure my time to remove, copy door mortises, mortise new hinge on existing jamb, bore latches.

    I was thinking an hour per door was too tight. An hour and half feels better.

    Thoughts?

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #639352

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    This is a tricky one too high a price and someone else wins the job, too low and you always feel you are behind losing money. The first few doors will go slow until you get a system, then the rest will go quickly. With 18 doors will a jig help?

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #639390

    Sorpa
    Pro
    Pierrefonds, Qc

    You can do it in less than one hour, jig or no jig for the hinges.
    You need the jig for the lock/handle/door knob whatever you’re using.
    I never put a third hinge when I do the swap unless the customer is asking for it. No problemos so far. Just use longer screws.

    #639402

    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    You can do it in less than one hour, jig or no jig for the hinges.
    You need the jig for the lock/handle/door knob whatever you’re using.
    I never put a third hinge when I do the swap unless the customer is asking for it. No problemos so far. Just use longer screws.

    Agreed, leave out the third hinge.

    I would estimate about an hour on average per door. The first couple will take a bit longer than the rest but you’ll speed up as you go.

    Are you charging by the hour or just wanting some input on how long it might take to figure a daily?

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #639433

    So I have about 18 hollow core door slabs I am going to swap out with solid doors. The existing doors are only 2 hinges and I am adding a third hinge.

    So I am trying to figure my time to remove, copy door mortises, mortise new hinge on existing jamb, bore latches.

    I was thinking an hour per door was too tight. An hour and half feels better.

    Thoughts?

    That time seems about right for a skilled carpenter . On a job like that it should be charged out by door price . You should be looking at a 3k job with that labor involved work . Buy yourself some winnags to help with install .

    Always willing to learn .

    #639452

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I have jigs for everything I used to Porter cable setup for the hinges and because we’re going from Hollow to solid I have to add a third hinge it’s the right thing to do.

    When you figure loading unloading removing copying going back that’s where I ended up in my time.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #639454

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I could see it going smooth less than an hour but in the real world it’s probably not going to happen so figured it at an hour and half.

    Which may be a bit generous but end up close. I’m not charging by the door I’m pretty much charging for my time.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #639455

    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    door replacements are hit or miss.. ive done some which have taken me 30 minutes not including tool setup,, and others that take 2 hrs. . all depends on several things such as where the door being replaced is located in the house or building..

    lugging time down and out side then matching hinge location.

    if the door needs to be cut down and then filler blocks installed… scribed to an old opening no longer square or plumb which means multiple tricks up and down

    #639458

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I don’t work in new construction I am always in people’s homes full of furniture.

    For all the factors Kirk listed above as well as drop cloths and vacuuming up behind you an hour and a half per door is about right.

    Thanks you help talk me into it Lol

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #639462

    Sorpa
    Pro
    Pierrefonds, Qc

    I change a side door – the one with the up & down in the middle – in 1 hour and a half – 1 hour 45 minute. Finishing inside/outside, locks included.With a helper of course.
    I gave you up to 1 hour to change a slab having a helper with you not alone.

    #639555

    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Pro
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    I think i would go with the safe 1 1/2 hours, make a good setup and Template for your router. rout all the doors outside so to minimize cleanup and rout them all at once to create efficiency they go for the jambs. If you index the center hinge from the top hinge the same every time that will make set up faster and easier. the key is not to move things a lot and minimize cleanup. a good dust shroud on the router helps a lot also.

    #639574

    door replacements are hit or miss.. ive done some which have taken me 30 minutes not including tool setup,, and others that take 2 hrs. . all depends on several things such as where the door being replaced is located in the house or building..

    lugging time down and out side then matching hinge location.

    if the door needs to be cut down and then filler blocks installed… scribed to an old opening no longer square or plumb which means multiple tricks up and down

    With installing soild core doors he shouldn’t lose time doing that over how-core doors . I always have the clients clean and move everything before a project can begin to help with efficient time control .

    Always willing to learn .

    #639597

    jkirk
    Moderator
    halifax, nova scotia

    a few things i didnt mention.

    i only use 3 hinges on solid doors becasue you need hte extra hinge to take strain off the other two

    also, for marking out the hinge locations i simply remove teh old door first set it directly along side the new door and transer the old hinge location over to teh new one.. no measuring required

    if you have a bunch of doors you can have a 2nd guy.. he can follow right behind you and do the locksets while you focus on hinge mortising

    #639629

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    My Porter Cable template kit is very good. I have always heard Bosch makes a good one BTW too.

    Hopefully the top and bottom of the existing hinges fall in line with one of the factory presets.

    The guages work off hinge centers and link the sections together making repetitive very consistent.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #639630

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    Oh…and I would route as much as possible outside but I still have to make the middles on the jambs. Plus Im not sure I will bite the latches outside. Just a bit off originally then your a hair off…..and trouble.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #639670

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    if you have a bunch of doors you can have a 2nd guy.. he can follow right behind you and do the locksets while you focus on hinge mortising

    Good idea to get a production line going.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #639724

    Sorpa
    Pro
    Pierrefonds, Qc

    a few things i didnt mention.

    also, for marking out the hinge locations i simply remove teh old door first set it directly along side the new door and transer the old hinge location over to teh new one.. no measuring required

    That’s exactly my method too.

    #639762

    a few things i didnt mention.

    i only use 3 hinges on solid doors becasue you need hte extra hinge to take strain off the other two

    also, for marking out the hinge locations i simply remove teh old door first set it directly along side the new door and transer the old hinge location over to teh new one.. no measuring required

    if you have a bunch of doors you can have a 2nd guy.. he can follow right behind you and do the locksets while you focus on hinge mortising

    Do you like centering drill bits for the hinge work our use a awl to center and start the screw . I find using a straight bit always moves out of center when you line it up in center of hole .

    Always willing to learn .

    #639788

    Sorpa
    Pro
    Pierrefonds, Qc

    The wood is soft so if you press the screw harder it will dig enough so you be needing an awl.

    #639794

    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Pro
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    Hopefully the top and bottom of the existing hinges fall in line with one of the factory presets.

    chances of that are slim unless the doors are feom the same manufacturer. I would talk to your supplier and for a few bucks a door they will machine the doors so the top and bottom match then all you have to do is worry about the cut on the existing jamb. you will also need to check the strikes to make sure they natch. I would get your doors through a millwork supplier and not even try a big box if you were thinking of going that way.

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