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cabinets refinish. re-post in new thread

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  • #401659
    yellaD
    Pro

    I am planning on refinishing some cabinets but don’t want to take them down. I figure I can strip/sand with it on the wall, but what do I do when it comes to staining and varnishing? i don’t have a sprayer but would buy one if it makes a difference, but I was planning on using a brush. What do u guys recommend, or how do you recommend I do this? Is there any possible way to apply finsihes without taking them down?

    #401746
    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    I have found the small foam rollers do a great job on any woodwork.
    It is much faster and no brush marks. Use a brush to cut in the edges and then roll over as much of the brush marks as you can.
    I wouldn’t use the roller with poly urethane like I did once. It made all sorts of air bubbles. Works great with paint though.

    #401747
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Foam rollers are a good idea especially for paint.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #401775
    58Chev
    Pro
    Etobicoke, ON

    Foam rollers are a good idea especially for paint.

    Best option ^^^^^
    A brush will most likely leave visible brush strokes and lines.

    “If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
    — Glenn Botting

    #401784
    RonW
    Moderator
    Holladay, Tn

    I know you said you don’t want to remove the cabinets. But I would. Will make this job much simpler.
    If not you could mask everything off like Redwood has done in his project. And spray them in place.
    http://bethepro.com/forums/topic/cabinet-building/page/7/#post-401207

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #401808
    ChadM
    Moderator
    Rogers, Ohio

    I agree with Ron, it would make the job much easier if the cabinets were off the wall.

    Chad

    A Working Pro since 1993

    Member since 12/07/2013

    #401860
    Doobie
    Moderator

    I sanded and striped and repainted a small kitchen cupboard when I lived in a rental years ago. It was long and difficult. Take them down if you can.

    #401867

    I have found the small foam rollers do a great job on any woodwork.
    It is much faster and no brush marks. Use a brush to cut in the edges and then roll over as much of the brush marks as you can.
    I wouldn’t use the roller with poly urethane like I did once. It made all sorts of air bubbles. Works great with paint though.

    Yes sir, you are so right about that. Just finished sanding down the fan Blades from a ceiling fan. Used the small foam roller, works great, and gave a nice finish. I thought it was going to create little air bubbles, but nothing at all.

    #401868
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I sanded and striped and repainted a small kitchen cupboard when I lived in a rental years ago. It was long and difficult. Take them down if you can.

    I would as well. If you leave them up, consider that the sander will bump into walls, ceilings, eat and make the finished product more difficult to achieve.

    Again I’ll suggest a sprayer. Rollers are fine for paint, but stains and clears come out better when sprayed or wiped.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #401871
    yellaD
    Pro

    THanks guys! I kinda knew it was inevitble that I’d have to remove the cupboards and doors, just hoping someone has done it a different way, but looking at @redwood‘s pics I think taking them is easier than that. What do you think @redwood, would you do it differently next time?

    Thanks again boys!

    #401944
    redwood
    Pro

    @yellaD

    My case is a little different then yours, but the process should be the about the same. I installed all my re purposed cabinets first, but the doors were already off. I lightly sanded the cabinets with 150 grit sand paper and then cleaned with TSP. I stripped all the hardware off on the cabinets and doors. I did a little research and in pretty much every case the doors were off the cabinets and refinished on either saw horses or the ground. I would have loved to done this with the doors hung, but taping all the hardware and being able to get behind the hinge side of the overlap doors seemed problematic. Also, painting the doors vertically allowed for a little greater chance of runs or sagging. Probably not a issue for a professional, but I’m not a professional cabinet finisher.

    I don’t know how many cabinets you are doing, but other then having to do a lot of masking, spraying is the way to go. I’d say the actual spraying of all my cabinets, top, doors, and drawers took maybe 5-6 hours. That is primer and 2 coats of finish paint. By hand, that would have probably taken me at least 40 hours and the finish wouldn’t be nearly as good. I had very little previous experience as a paint sprayer and most of that was 15 years ago.

    If you get a sprayer, make sure it sprays the product that you are using.

    One change I would have done differently is that under my doors, I used old vinyl tarps that I had lying around. I painted the back side of the doors first then flipped them to do the front. On a few of the doors, the back sides stuck to the vinyl tarps, so I will have some touch up to do. I should have used cloth tarps or spaced the doors above the tarps with some scraps.

    Hope this helps.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #402336
    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    They make little pyramid shape blocks that you can put under your piece for painting and they work good. I have taken scrap wood and ran screws though the scrap and then set my piece on top of the screw points. This way you can spray one side and flip it over right away and spray the other side all in one shot.

    #402370
    yellaD
    Pro

    YEs I just bought a bag of the painter’s pyramids…what a time saver for $7. I also did what I call the “ghetto solutions” way of screws through a board and turned upside down to use the points. LOL.

    #402532
    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    I was doing the ghetto way long before they sold the pyramids.
    It works good.

    #404334
    yellaD
    Pro

    Thanks @redwood, the doors and hardware issue should be done right because they are the most noticable (prominent). Depending on how the cabinets are hung, I will take everything off. I have 6 pieces and a hutch.

    #404337

    Do you have a compressor big enough to spray these?

    Andrew

    A Working Pro since 1995!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #404338
    yellaD
    Pro

    No, I do not have a HVLP gun set up. I would use a nice brush, I’m not the worst at it. I had another thread going about HVLP recommendations and I was thinking that if I went that route, it would come with a separate pump/compressor.

    #404339
    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    Thanks @redwood, the doors and hardware issue should be done right because they are the most noticable (prominent). Depending on how the cabinets are hung, I will take everything off. I have 6 pieces and a hutch.

    Shouldn’t be a big jog getting the cabinets moved them.

    Do you have a compressor big enough to spray these?

    Wondering about this myself. I don’t believe @yellaD owns a spray gun as of yet.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #404349
    redwood
    Pro

    They make little pyramid shape blocks that you can put under your piece for painting and they work good. I have taken scrap wood and ran screws though the scrap and then set my piece on top of the screw points. This way you can spray one side and flip it over right away and spray the other side all in one shot.

    I have a few of those pyramid blocks, but not enough to hold up 18 doors at a time. Unfortunately, no scraps came with me in the move here. Had I realized what was going to happen, I would have done something different. I did have the forethought to paint the backs first, so that if there were any issues, it wouldn’t affect the faces.

    Mark E.

    Pioneer, CA

    Working Pro 1972 - 2015
    Member since Jan 22, 2013
    www.creative-redwood-designs.com

    #404354
    yellaD
    Pro

    If I was brushing on varnish, I’d only be able to do one side at time. No flipping it over. As mentioned before I was using the screw point technique in the past with not real problem. As long as you do the BACKS FIRST.

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