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Cabinet toe kicks

This topic contains 33 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by  smallerstick 9 months, 3 weeks ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 34 total)
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  • #658868

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    What are your methods? Some stock cabinets come with nice 1x kicks but others come with thin veneer kicks. Then you have exposed ends and it worse with those brands that use plastic aligners in between parts.

    I am doing a kitchen where we didnt change the floor and the last cabinet was later topped with face frames before this floor. Due to the large tile gap I now have I bought poplar and shoe to conceal.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #658878

    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    Most the cabinets I use just have a 1/2 or 3/4 brace for the toe kick that I then cover with a solid 1/4″ veneer strip that matches the cabinets. I have also used the rubber base molding for toe kicks. I usually would use black so you don’t really see it. I guess there are many ways to skin a cat.

    #658883

    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Pro
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    we installed some a few years ago that the owner purchased they came with a 1/4″ kick that we had to apply but nothing but the cabinet ends to apply it to. nothing between the ends to support the cabinet bottom either.

    Off to the lumber yard to get a bunch of 1 x 4 to fasten between the ends to make everything work. PITA

    #658885

    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I use the cheapo veneer MDF pieces typically, unless I’m building the cabinets. In that case, it will be hardwood and made to match the face frames.

    If I’m forced to use the 1/4 MDF, I’ll miter a return anywhere it will be visible.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #658886

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I use the cheapo veneer MDF pieces typically, unless I’m building the cabinets. In that case, it will be hardwood and made to match the face frames.

    If I’m forced to use the 1/4 MDF, I’ll miter a return anywhere it will be visible.

    I don’t think I have attempted to return miter anything less than 1/2″. In those cases I color the square end.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #658887

    jponto07
    Moderator
    Bloomington, IN

    I use the cheapo veneer MDF pieces typically, unless I’m building the cabinets. In that case, it will be hardwood and made to match the face frames.

    If I’m forced to use the 1/4 MDF, I’ll miter a return anywhere it will be visible.

    I don’t think I have attempted to return miter anything less than 1/2″. In those cases I color the square end.

    I feel a bit odd doing it, but it works in cases with a dark veneer as it contrasts wildly with the lighter MDF.

    Jon P.
    Timber Carpentry & Construction
    https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
    Instagram

    #658902

    RonW
    Pro
    Holladay, Tn

    I use 3/4” material for the toe kicks. Always the same material as the face frames.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #658910

    Doobie
    Pro
    Ajax, ON

    I’m gonna point it out, it’s ‘TOE’ kicks, not ‘TO’ kicks. I wasn’t sure what this thread was about til I actually started reading it, lol! 😶

    Kevin.

    Wannabee pro.

    #658927

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    I use 3/4” material for the toe kicks. Always the same material as the face frames.

    Seems like the best solution to me.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #658931

    smallerstick
    Pro
    Listowel, ON

    Wherever possible, I use 3/4″ same as the face frames as well. Seems easier to use what you have on hand. I have used the adjustable cabinet legs and the clips for the toe kick that comes with them. Makes finishing a little easier IMO.

    https://www.instagram.com/woodiworkshop/

    #658933

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I’m gonna point it out, it’s ‘TOE’ kicks, not ‘TO’ kicks. I wasn’t sure what this thread was about til I actually started reading it, lol! 😶

    I realized the typo later but…….you figured it out 😉

    So then theres Islands. Usually I do a shoe molding no matter what but on occasion I match the baseboard in the room and then again add the shoe.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #658934

    kurt@welkerhomes.com
    Pro
    Owatonna, MN - Minnesota

    We installed some cabinets several years ago that came with the 1/4″ kick material and nothing on the boxes to support it. they were fairly expensive cabinets that the owner supplied. There was nothing between the end panels under the cabinet bottom even to support the bottom, front or back.

    Off to the lumber yard to pick up some 1 x 4 to fill them in front and back so there was something to fasten the kick to and to support the bottom.

    #658943

    Doobie
    Pro
    Ajax, ON

    I’m gonna point it out, it’s ‘TOE’ kicks, not ‘TO’ kicks. I wasn’t sure what this thread was about til I actually started reading it, lol!

    No worries Tom. All in fun and the haphazard of forum missteps we all do on occasion. Guilty myself at times.

    Kevin.

    Wannabee pro.

    #658944

    roninohio
    Pro
    New Franklin, OH

    I sometimes use base molding on Islands as well. Sometimes shoe also.
    Also sometime I have to do that on the ends of cabinets when they are shimmed up off the floor. Some of these old houses we work on have really unlevel floors.

    #659048

    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    On the cheap cabs we get a 3/4″ ply strip that matches the cabs and use that. If I’m lucky they give me a end panel that the strip buts into. If not I just do a 45º return and use a matching marker on the joint?? Does that make any sense?

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #659089

    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Does that make any sense?

    Makes sense to me. Seems like a reasonable solution.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #659100

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    All moving along well until I had a screw blow out the side of the refrigerator panel 🙁 Now I have to come up with a clean repair.

    Wont have time today either, the Quartz tops are coming a day earlier around mid day today so I need to pull the stove and disconnect the sink I have rigged, and should prime the backsplash before hand.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #659101

    smallerstick
    Pro
    Listowel, ON

    On the cheap cabs we get a 3/4″ ply strip that matches the cabs and use that. If I’m lucky they give me a end panel that the strip buts into. If not I just do a 45º return and use a matching marker on the joint?? Does that make any sense?

    Makes perfect sense. Do you glue the return, glue and pin, glue and clamp?

    https://www.instagram.com/woodiworkshop/

    #659104

    RonW
    Pro
    Holladay, Tn

    I sometimes use base molding on Islands as well. Sometimes shoe also.
    Also sometime I have to do that on the ends of cabinets when they are shimmed up off the floor. Some of these old houses we work on have really unlevel floors.

    When the floors are bad out of level I will stain some shoe molding to match the cabinets. Only good way to hide the shims.

    Ron

    A Working Pro since 1994!

    Member since March 26, 2014.

    #659147

    Maybe I’m in the minority, but I prefer to build a podium that is fully enclosed, and use something like plywood or paint grade for the facing of it so there is no exposed edge.

    Then I just set the cabinets down on the podium. No notching out to do, and the cabinets can be made more efficiently from a 5×5 of baltic birch

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