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Bosch TS-4100 + Gravity stand dust collection mods

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  • #379670

    I still ended with a lot of dust sitting on top of the plywood base inside the saw. I needed to use a 1 ½ inch vacuum hose to get into the back of the saw after removing the play mat covering.

    This could have been as a result of two factors. One, most inner cavities of saws that are sesined by manufacturers with DC in mind have a sloped inner bottom towards the extraction port.

    The other factor is oversealing. You kay have oversealed the unit and created a vacuum chamber inside of sorts. Just like the HVAC system in our homes, if there is no way for air to return from a room, there is little air you can blow into a room. You seal up an entire lower base on a table saw, you can have a similar problem but in reverse. Using the Stash versus solid pieces for blocking, you eliminate that proboem.

    Yup – first ever saw needing make-up air. Maybe a MUA system could be fitted? 🙂

    #379748
    Kamster
    Pro

    I still ended with a lot of dust sitting on top of the plywood base inside the saw. I needed to use a 1 ½ inch vacuum hose to get into the back of the saw after removing the play mat covering.

    This could have been as a result of two factors. One, most inner cavities of saws that are sesined by manufacturers with DC in mind have a sloped inner bottom towards the extraction port.

    The other factor is oversealing. You kay have oversealed the unit and created a vacuum chamber inside of sorts. Just like the HVAC system in our homes, if there is no way for air to return from a room, there is little air you can blow into a room. You seal up an entire lower base on a table saw, you can have a similar problem but in reverse. Using the Stash versus solid pieces for blocking, you eliminate that proboem.

    I still ended with a lot of dust sitting on top of the plywood base inside the saw. I needed to use a 1 ½ inch vacuum hose to get into the back of the saw after removing the play mat covering.

    This could have been as a result of two factors. One, most inner cavities of saws that are sesined by manufacturers with DC in mind have a sloped inner bottom towards the extraction port.

    The other factor is oversealing. You kay have oversealed the unit and created a vacuum chamber inside of sorts. Just like the HVAC system in our homes, if there is no way for air to return from a room, there is little air you can blow into a room. You seal up an entire lower base on a table saw, you can have a similar problem but in reverse. Using the Stash versus solid pieces for blocking, you eliminate that proboem.

    In the original version, the openings on the motor side and the opposite side were left open to get air moving across the motor.

    The Saw Stashe does allow more air movement from the front to the back where the dust extraction port is located versus the taped on foam mats that I used originally.

    There is a lot less dust inside the saw

    #392877
    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    I got my cover. I kinda fits but I think I am going to modify my riving knife. The dust collection is great on the two boards I cut.

    IMG_2962 by Brad Taylor[/url], on Flickr

    IMG_2963 by Brad Taylor[/url], on Flickr

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

    #392887
    jaydee
    Pro
    Spencer, Ma., happy 2015

    nice work, how long did it take you ??

    #392897

    I got my cover. I kinda fits but I think I am going to modify my riving knife. The dust collection is great on the two boards I cut.

    IMG_2962 by Brad Taylor[/url], on Flickr

    IMG_2963 by Brad Taylor[/url], on Flickr

    I have the same – Im just pinching the riving knife. How did you mount yours?

    #392898
    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    It came in about a week. I am just pinching the knife as well.

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

    #392927
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    It came in about a week. I am just pinching the knife as well.

    So with that set up you’d have 2 vac hoses to the table saw?

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #392939
    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    It came in about a week. I am just pinching the knife as well.

    So with that set up you’d have 2 vac hoses to the table saw?

    Right now I have the big DC on the back and bottom (hooked up to the shop vac atm) and the vac on the top so that’s 3 hoses. I think I could live with just two on the jobsite (back and top) I don’t know if you could use a Y and split the hose or not, well you could but I don’t know if there would be enough suction.

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

    #392940

    It came in about a week. I am just pinching the knife as well.

    So with that set up you’d have 2 vac hoses to the table saw?

    Right now I have the big DC on the back and bottom (hooked up to the shop vac atm) and the vac on the top so that’s 3 hoses. I think I could live with just two on the jobsite (back and top) I don’t know if you could use a Y and split the hose or not, well you could but I don’t know if there would be enough suction.

    Its better than nothing, but not great. Im running a small wall-mount DC (mobile, since its on french cleats) and forking from a 4 inch.

    When I’m on shop vac, I run the vac to the top, with dust deputy, and hang a bag from the rear port. Does better than I expected.

    #456929

    After reading the thread about the 4100 accessories
    http://bethepro.com/forums/topic/bosch-table-saw-accessories-review-bosch-4100-09-10-in-table-saw/
    I thought I would share how I modified the 4100 and gravity stand to improve the dust collection with a shop vacuum.

    In my initial attempt at dust collection, I used a ¼ inch sheet of plywood for the base under the saw and covered every opening with pieces of children’s play mat foam cut to appropriate shapes and lengths and attached them with gorilla tape. The dust collection with a single vacuum hose attached to the rear port was OK but I still ended with a lot of dust sitting on top of the plywood base inside the saw. I needed to use a 1 ½ inch vacuum hose to get into the back of the saw after removing the play mat covering. The other problem that I had was when I need to cut an angle, I had to remove the foam mats on the front and rear of the saw.

    In version 2 of the dust collection mods, I made the following changes. I added a 4 inch dust collection port to the plywood base (see photo 1). I also flipped the saw around on the gravity stand so that the 4 inch port does not hit the stand when the stand is collapsed. The 4 inch port on the bottom and the 2 ½ inch port on the back are connected with a Y connector, 2 lengths of 2 ½ inch hose and a 2 ½ to 4 inch adapter. The hose is connected to a 6.5 HP Ridgid vacuum. (see photo 7)

    The base of the saw was sealed with thick foam tape with an adhesive backing. I think I used ¾ inch thickness. Something like this http://www.homedepot.ca/product/closed-cell-sponge-rubber-tape/941510. In one area I reused some of the foam play mat just to get a comparison between the two foams. So far, both work equally well under the base. (See photo 2 and 4)

    Since I wasn’t happy with the foam mats sealing off the openings in the saw, I decided to use the 4 inch and 2 inch Saw Stache from Fast Cap. (See photos 2, 2 closeup, 3)

    http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=53770 .

    (I’m lucky to be living 30 minutes from the FastCap factory in Washington State. I have to wait to cross at the border but its faster and cheaper than doing mail order.)

    I cut the Saw Stache to length to fit the different arcs and notches on all 4 sides of the 4100. I bought 2 feet of the 2 inch and 2 feet of the 4 inch. Probably should have gotten 3 feet of the 4 inch. The Stashe is easy to cut with a knife or clip with a pair of tin snips. The different pieces of the Stashe were attached with Fast Cap’s double sided tape – SpeedTape. I was really impressed with the quality of the tape as it is incredibly sticky. As opposed to the sealed nature of the saw when I used the foam mats and tape, the Stashe covered openings allow more air to flow from the front of the saw to the back of the saw. The Staches on the front and the back also allow the angle of the saw blade to be changed easily – this is a huge improvement. The Stashe on the back also allows me to stick a 1 ½ inch hose into the saw to easily collect the dust that is trapped in the corners. (See photos 5 and 6)

    I think that the version 2 modifications have improved the overall dust collection from the saw. The one area that continues to be a minor issue is the amount of dust that gets kicked back out of the top of the saw when using the standard Bosch insert. Using a slightly modified Bosch zero clearance insert does improve the dust ejection issue. I think that I’ll try a higher quality ZCI and see how that works.

    Is there anything you wish you had done differently?

    I have decided to dustproof my new 4100 before using it (you have no idea how hard it is to wait) and will be taking a few pages out of your book

    I will be adding the sawstache to the front and back of the saw (I ordered 3 feet of the 4 inch) and putting 1/4 ply between the gravity rise and the saw, with a dust port (Im going for a 14X14 plate with a 4 inch port) and foam insulation tape for the gaps between the ply and the saw

    All modifications will be reversible, and on the outside of the machine. I already have the over arm blade guard with DC, so that will help.

    I am wondering how important it is to block off the gaps between the table and saw body – some forums suggest blocking off completely the side opposite the motor and leaving the motor side open. Others seem to leave air flowing with foam or sawstaches, but block dust escaping. What do you think?

    Is there anything you would have changed?

    #456944
    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    @Montreal_Medic did you get your sawstache in Canada? I haven’t found a good source for them.

    I did the same mod to the bottom, just make sure you seal it up with the foam tape or it will leak.

    My front and back slots are still open and I want to put the sawstache on them.

    Zero clearance insert helps with the above blade DC

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

    #456948
    Doobie
    Moderator

    @Montreal_Medic did you get your sawstache in Canada? I haven’t found a good source for them.

    I think Fastenal carries Fast Cap stuff in Canada.

    #456950

    @Montreal_Medic did you get your sawstache in Canada? I haven’t found a good source for them.

    I did the same mod to the bottom, just make sure you seal it up with the foam tape or it will leak.

    My front and back slots are still open and I want to put the sawstache on them.

    Zero clearance insert helps with the above blade DC

    I just went to fastcap. Shipping was about 20$, but I got a few extra things from them, so it wasnt the end of the world

    All told, the 3 feet of sawstache will have cost me about 50$ US, which is pricey, but considering how much I would pay for improved collection away from the source….

    Now what Im really curious about is the Lattice base on the EU version. Part 1 609 203 L16

    Looks interesting. Its open, but I wonder if it might affect the airflow enough to get the dust into the rear vac port. Might just be a safety feature, but at 20 quid, its interesting

    #456951

    The EU version also has a plate covering the rear extraction point

    #456966
    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    That lattice does look interesting. I don’t think it would be adequate. I have a full sheet across mine and it needed to be completely sealed for it to really help.

    And that rear plate looks like a circle with a slot in it for the rear DC?? I can’t tell from the picture but the parts schematic shows it. Easy to replicate. And with the sawstache up front. It might be a winning combo.

    Thanks for the info on the sawstache as well.

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

    #456971

    That lattice does look interesting. I don’t think it would be adequate. I have a full sheet across mine and it needed to be completely sealed for it to really help.

    And that rear plate looks like a circle with a slot in it for the rear DC?? I can’t tell from the picture but the parts schematic shows it. Easy to replicate. And with the sawstache up front. It might be a winning combo.

    Thanks for the info on the sawstache as well.

    I just ordered the rear plate – it looks like a circle that pivots out of the way as the dust port swings. Ordered it and the hardware (six parts in all) for 25 pounds shipped. As much as I could replicate it, I want the perfect tolerances OEM brings

    If I can get that in back, sawstache in front, ply with vac on the bottom, and foam the bottom gaps, I should be good to go, esp with a ZCI under the overarm DC blade guard

    Just wondering about the gaps between the tabletop and the saw body. Also really curious about the lattice. Since they cared to block off the dust opening in the rear, why leave the bottom open. Must do something

    #456974
    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    I’ll be interested to get your take on it once it all arrives. That’s not bad of price if it works. Your right, why close the back and then leave the bottom slatted? Maybe so stuff just gentle falls to the floor under the saw instead of getting blown out the back??

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

    #456999

    I suspect its used to add rigidity to the base of the saw. The GTS10XC is considered a shop saw more than a portable saw in Europe from my understanding. Otherwise the base is a tapered rectangular section. Nothing really prevents any twisting motion on the base from imparting that into the table and the GTS10XC has the pseudo sliding table on the top which thins out the table. That addition of the bottom piece I assume is like the thin back of a cabinet in that it adds significant strength and rigidity to the base.

    #457009
    whitehill
    Pro
    Ottawa, ON
    #457010
    thedude306
    Moderator
    Foam Lake, SK

    How big is the base? Would this work?
    http://www.busybeetools.com/products/flange-tablesaw-14in-x-14in.html

    That’s what I have on the board on the bottom of mine.

    Brad T
    Self employed Pro since 2014!!

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