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58Chev wrote:
Brad, is that insert home made? what material if it is?
Home made using MDF. You have to support the bottom side or it will sag (the reason for version 2.0)How much work did it take to keep the sag out of the MDF? Lots of support underneath with hardwood? Any reason why you didn’t use a more rigid material instead of the MDF?
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramHow much work did it take to keep the sag out of the MDF? Lots of support underneath with hardwood? Any reason why you didn’t use a more rigid material instead of the MDF?
My first edition was just a piece of 3/4″ MDF and it of course sagged. All I needed to to was add these supports to the under side. It has held up perfectly.
As to why MDF, it’s perfectly flat and it machines SOO nice. It also glues up nice without using fasteners. I was going to use melamine on this rendition for the smooth top, but had the MDF kicking around. I might end up laminating the top but it hasn’t been an issue so far.
Brad T
Self employed Pro since 2014!!Works for me! I’ve made due with what I have in the shop many times. Looks like you solved the sagging issue pretty well also.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramMy first edition was just a piece of 3/4″ MDF and it of course sagged. All I needed to to was add these supports to the under side. It has held up perfectly.
Brad,
ThanX for the tip on keeping it from sagging. I have thought about a router insert and I would have had to make a ver. 2 if not for your tip.“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingDone, installed and PERFECT.
IMG_3308 by Brad Taylor[/url], on FlickrBrad T
Self employed Pro since 2014!!Done, installed and PERFECT.
IMG_3308 by Brad Taylor[/url], on FlickrWow! Care to walk us through the steps and parts needed? Even better, do you have plans? I would pay for them!
Done, installed and PERFECT.
IMG_3308 by Brad Taylor[/url], on FlickrIt looks great Brad! Was the previous version mounted inside of the right side extension? I seem to remember it that way.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramGood eye Jon. It was mounted inside the extension. I decided to try it without the piece for a trial run. So far I really like it. I can get a little closer to the router and the top doesn’t stick out so far. I can still extend the side out though to get a full rip if needed.
Ultimately I would like to get another set of the raile extrusions so I can add them to the left side of the saw.
Brad T
Self employed Pro since 2014!!Done, installed and PERFECT.
That looks cool Brad. Just realized its on the gravity rise stand. Impressive!
Good eye Jon. It was mounted inside the extension. I decided to try it without the piece for a trial run. So far I really like it. I can get a little closer to the router and the top doesn’t stick out so far. I can still extend the side out though to get a full rip if needed.
Ultimately I would like to get another set of the raile extrusions so I can add them to the left side of the saw.
Wowwy good eye is right, I didn’t notice that. Ok I like this version too, I was sad to hear the 1617 works out better rather than the mrc23 like I have but oh well. Very cool, Great job
Done, installed and PERFECT.
IMG_3308 by Brad Taylor[/url], on FlickrWow Brad, you can say that again. It did turn out perfect. Adding this thread to my list of favorites to go over when the time comes.
“If you don’t pass on the knowledge you have to others, it Dies with you”
— Glenn BottingI was sad to hear the 1617 works out better rather than the mrc23 like I have but oh well.
It’s just the DC on the 1617. The MR23 excels in everything else. I actually got the plunge base for the 1617 and it’s junk compared to the MR23. I put it on my FSN OFA router base but I might break down and get another MR23 for it.
Oh, and @dabbs keep an eye out in the mail…. 🙂
Brad T
Self employed Pro since 2014!!I was sad to hear the 1617 works out better rather than the mrc23 like I have but oh well.
It’s just the DC on the 1617. The MR23 excels in everything else. I actually got the plunge base for the 1617 and it’s junk compared to the MR23. I put it on my FSN OFA router base but I might break down and get another MR23 for it.
Oh, and @dabbs keep an eye out in the mail….
Ohhhh cool!! Thank you Brad, I’ll take care of ya on the shipping cost……….That new Rigid vac I bought with the 2 1/2″ hose actually does fit on the 4100 and router table, It also came with the 1 7/8″ hose but unfortunately that doesn’t fit on the miter saw. Haven’t tried it on anything else yet like directly on a router @thedude306
Is that a full miter bar on the right side of the insert?
I’ve also heard of people using the rail extensions to make a double wide GTS1031 and I think its been done with a 4100/NAINA equivalent, here’s one of them with the GTS1031:
http://www.cab1net.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=31504#p31504
http://www.cab1net.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=32560#p32560Yup, it’s a full miter bar but the bosch miter doesn’t fit in it. I just made a slide for it. It’s incra T-track and works well.
Late Merry Chrismtas @dabbs. If you use it great, if not no worries.
You can see here that I just took out the OEM part of the table and move the router insert to the end of the bars. So there is now a little bit of adj instead of it being open all the way all the time. I did it for a few reasons.
1) I never do a full rip on my table saw now that I have a track saw so the saw fully extended all the time took up space. I didn’t gain lots of room, but it’s enough.
2) I wanted to get the rail back to the left side of the blade. I don’t use it a lot, but when I did it was a PITA to take the top apart.
3) I wanted the router closer to me. It’s easier to use with it being closer to the end for some tasks. And you can always place your part on the blade side if you need the added support.
4) What I would like to do is get a piece of the rail and add it to the left side of the saw and use the top that I removed over there. (like you can kinda see it sitting there in the above pictures.
IMG_3316 by Brad Taylor[/url], on Flickr
IMG_3317 by Brad Taylor[/url], on FlickrBrad T
Self employed Pro since 2014!!Is it the little anti lift piece on the Bosch rail that prevents it from slipping into the Incra T track? I have an Incra Miter 1000HD that I use as my preferred miter gauge except when I want to make a quick 90 degree crosscut, it also has a little anti lift piece that’s removable.
Sorry @Reflector It’s not a miter track, It’s a T-track. The miter tracks are 3/4″ wide. This is a T-track for clamps, but I did make a miter slide of sorts.
Brad T
Self employed Pro since 2014!!Ultimately I would like to get another set of the raile extrusions so I can add them to the left side of the saw.
Where did you find the first set? Are they OEM, or does someone make compatible rails?
From my understanding you can get the fence rails from Bosch.
From my understanding you can get the fence rails from Bosch.
I thought these were longer than the standard?
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