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Most of us have been there when an old tub drain basket refuses to come out gracefully.
If it still has the cross bars at the bottom, one could use a tub drain removal tool with a screw driver for leverage and back it out.
If you then break the cross bars or the cross bars have rotted out then you can try one of those “friction fit” wrenches. May be 50/50 chance.
If that doesn’t work, then your only option is to vertically cut a few lines around the drain basket, do it ever so gently to not cut excessively into the threads of the drain shoe, then “peel” the basket out. I am wondering what power tool, if any, do you use to make those cuts.
There isn’t really a fitting power tool for making these vertical cuts. Not a dremel, not an OMT, possibly a super short stroke length reciprocating saw…
I know they sell “retro” adapter baskets that you epoxy into the existing basket, that may work in some situations but raises the lip of the drain by 1/16″ or so. But sometimes it gets to a point where it’s personal between YOU and the DRAIN BASKET.
I’ve never had the pleasure (thankfully!), but wouldn’t a jigsaw with a metal blade work well? It has a shorter stroke and can be controlled pretty well.
Jon P.
Timber Carpentry & Construction
https://www.facebook.com/timbercarpentry/
InstagramTry an internal pipe wrench. I would be careful using any power tools to cut the drain out, you take a serious risk of damaging the body of the tub. I’d maybe try a hacksaw or a Sabre saw to get a little more control in the cut.
I have used those internal pipe wrenches that works by friction. I say my luck has been less than 50/50 even with the added encouragement of a few mallet tap.
It’s one of those I really hate to do. Damaging the tub is one thing, having the drain shoe drop down is another.
Thanks for the tip! It didn’t quite do the trick for my old drain but I found something else that worked great! I cut four slots with a Dremel cutoff wheel into the top of the drain plate and was able to hammer it around with a big screw driver. Still was absolutely stuck after four rotations and had to hammer it all the way off! New one went right in odly enough and is not leaking after some initial tests.
https://cozzy.org/best-dremel-tool-kit/I have used a small plumbers hand hacksaw to cut kerfs then hammer and standard screw driver to get it turning. It does suck.
I wonder if presoaking with WD or something would eat into the scaling.
I know I have a garden hose frozen onto the sillcock Im afraid of breaking the pipe twisting it off. It wont budge
Working Pro since 1993
Tom M
Glad you got it out.
I have also used a dremel to make cuts on the top flange. Had to be really careful and steady to not end up scoring on the tub finish though.
I have used a small plumbers hand hacksaw to cut kerfs then hammer and standard screw driver to get it turning. It does suck.
I wonder if presoaking with WD or something would eat into the scaling.
I know I have a garden hose frozen onto the sillcock Im afraid of breaking the pipe twisting it off. It wont budge
I have used WD40, penetrating oil, sometimes heat, and can’t say that any of them really helped.
At one point in time I was toying with the idea of fashioning something from an angle grinder flange wrench. You know the one with two tiny nipples? I thought about drilling two small holes on the top flange matching the distance, then put that tool on it to try and rotate.
I still use my 30+ year old set of Craftsman tools to do my own preventative maintenance on our vehicles. I love how they have held up … and that they were made in the USA. As you may already know, Sears Holdings is in a bad financial way. Personally, I haven’t bought anything at Sears (other than a few Craftsman tools) there in 10+ years.
I still use my 30+ year old set of Craftsman tools
I have lots of old Craftsman tools as well. They still get the job done and have held up really well for their age.
Automotive Pro
Fayetteville, NC
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