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best bits for drilling through 1/2 inch steel beam?

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 76 total)
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  • #344091
    rylim
    Pro
    Missouri City, Texas

    Any tips on sharpening the dull drill bit ?

    I use a Drill Doctor. I like it. I get a bunch of broken bits saved up, break out the Drill Doctor set it all up and go to town. It works. Not quite as easy as they make it seem but it gives you a nice accurate point.

    Alright, which model of Drill Doctor are you using ?

    By the way, I have a couple friends who are good in sharpening drill bit by using bench grinder.

    #345301
    sergey061478
    Blocked

    Any tips on sharpening the dull drill bit ?

    I use a Drill Doctor. I like it. I get a bunch of broken bits saved up, break out the Drill Doctor set it all up and go to town. It works. Not quite as easy as they make it seem but it gives you a nice accurate point.

    Alright, which model of Drill Doctor are you using ?

    By the way, I have a couple friends who are good in sharpening drill bit by using bench grinder.

    Drill Doctor is the way to go for twist bits ranging between 3/16″ and 1/2″. I personally have two Drill Doctor sharpeners.
    One is an older model, Drill Doctor 750 with two chucks, one for smaller bits, the other for larger bits. And new model, Drill Doctor 750X, this comes only with one chuck for entire range of bits. Both Drill Doctors can do split points on the bits. Love them both!

    #346235
    rylim
    Pro
    Missouri City, Texas

    Any tips on sharpening the dull drill bit ?

    I use a Drill Doctor. I like it. I get a bunch of broken bits saved up, break out the Drill Doctor set it all up and go to town. It works. Not quite as easy as they make it seem but it gives you a nice accurate point.

    Alright, which model of Drill Doctor are you using ?

    By the way, I have a couple friends who are good in sharpening drill bit by using bench grinder.

    Drill Doctor is the way to go for twist bits ranging between 3/16″ and 1/2″. I personally have two Drill Doctor sharpeners.
    One is an older model, Drill Doctor 750 with two chucks, one for smaller bits, the other for larger bits. And new model, Drill Doctor 750X, this comes only with one chuck for entire range of bits. Both Drill Doctors can do split points on the bits. Love them both!

    I definitely would check it out when I’m freee

    #346772
    sergey061478
    Blocked

    Any tips on sharpening the dull drill bit ?

    I use a Drill Doctor. I like it. I get a bunch of broken bits saved up, break out the Drill Doctor set it all up and go to town. It works. Not quite as easy as they make it seem but it gives you a nice accurate point.

    Alright, which model of Drill Doctor are you using ?

    By the way, I have a couple friends who are good in sharpening drill bit by using bench grinder.

    Drill Doctor is the way to go for twist bits ranging between 3/16″ and 1/2″. I personally have two Drill Doctor sharpeners.
    One is an older model, Drill Doctor 750 with two chucks, one for smaller bits, the other for larger bits. And new model, Drill Doctor 750X, this comes only with one chuck for entire range of bits. Both Drill Doctors can do split points on the bits. Love them both!

    I definitely would check it out when I’m freee

    The models I have listed above are top of the line. There are cheaper models. Some cost like 50 bucks. However, the do not create split points on bits. Plus, you need to read the instructions and there is some learning curve too. Bottom line – it will save you a lot of money on the drill bits, especialy if you work with metal.

    #347871

    I find it best to use not cheap throw away bits but middle range bits. No matter what you burn them up so if its not breaking the bank every time its better. But like others said slow and a lot of oil. if you can use a magnetic drill it will make the job a lot easier. Can control the speed and pressure a lot easier.

    #347892
    Warren6810
    Moderator
    Akron, OH

    Magnet drill all the way if you have more than a couple to do. I have rented them about once a year and would love to own one someday.

    #349810

    I find it best to use not cheap throw away bits but middle range bits. No matter what you burn them up so if its not breaking the bank every time its better. But like others said slow and a lot of oil. if you can use a magnetic drill it will make the job a lot easier. Can control the speed and pressure a lot easier.

    I second the middle range bits. Cheap bits just seem to break or dull too easily. Expensive bits make me cringe too hard when I break them. I have had good luck with the black oxide coated bits, drilling through just about everything including steel and titanium. Just going slowly and lots of lubricant; you can just spray every few seconds with WD40 or 3in1 oil and that will help you a lot.

    #349825
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Cordless mag drills are starting to show up.

    #349827
    kswiss
    Pro
    edmonton, AB

    I’m afraid to ask how much that drill costs. I just saw the corded Milwaukee in a flyer for around $1200

    #349836
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I see $2200-2300 for the kit, Googling. I don’t think it’s out until July.

    #349840
    kswiss
    Pro
    edmonton, AB

    I can see that thing being a game changer for a lot of iron workers and metal guys. Quite the initial investment though. For that price I hope it at least comes with 2 5.0 batteries.

    #349849
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    . For that price I hope it at least comes with 2 5.0 batteries.

    I just looked, and it does.

    Yes, steep, but if it’s something that makes you money…

    #349931
    rylim
    Pro
    Missouri City, Texas

    Even a corded version would costs you $1500

    #350153
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I see $2200-2300 for the kit, Googling. I don’t think it’s out until July.

    <figure class=”oe-video-container”><iframe width=”770″ height=”433″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/HNvk9HtNXNo?feature=oembed&wmode=opaque&#8221; frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe></figure>

    I’ve used a corded version a lot in the past and never ever thought I’d see a cordless one, My first thought was on the magnet power but that video says it’s independent from the battery. And even if the battery dies the magnet still holds, I wonder how that works

    #350270
    rylim
    Pro
    Missouri City, Texas

    @Dabbs I hope this would answer your question; ‘The new tools utilize permanent magnets so that the magnetic base operates without electricity; ensuring that the magnet does not deactivate if the battery is drained’. ( Quoted from http://www.milwaukeetool.com/press-releases/new-m18-fuel-magnetic-drills-drive-safety–productivity )

    #350273
    theamcguy
    Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    Milwaukee has a heck of a tool there but for $2300 I’ll probably wait awhile before getting one.

    Automotive Pro
    Fayetteville, NC

    #350314
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    @Dabbs I hope this would answer your question; ‘The new tools utilize permanent magnets so that the magnetic base operates without electricity; ensuring that the magnet does not deactivate if the battery is drained’. ( Quoted from http://www.milwaukeetool.com/press-releases/new-m18-fuel-magnetic-drills-drive-safety–productivity )

    thanks Hong, well then my next question is I wonder how you turn it on and off? or maybe you don’t?

    #350320
    rylim
    Pro
    Missouri City, Texas

    @Dabbs I hope this would answer your question; ‘The new tools utilize permanent magnets so that the magnetic base operates without electricity; ensuring that the magnet does not deactivate if the battery is drained’. ( Quoted from http://www.milwaukeetool.com/press-releases/new-m18-fuel-magnetic-drills-drive-safety–productivity )

    thanks Hong, well then my next question is I wonder how you turn it on and off? or maybe you don’t?

    That’s a good question. I assume that there would be two magnets inside the magnetic base. When you rotate one of the magnets, it would repel each others. In other word, it allows you to detach the tool from the metal work surface.

    #353376
    BryanT
    Blocked
    Lake Ariel, PA

    Perhaps my question is a bit off topic. Can anyone describe the difference between a whole saw and an annular cutter? Thanks.

    BryanT

    #436246

    Well, I’ve used to methods myself. And, I’ve gone through a lot of steel beams in my life. I’m a retired Journeyman Pipefitter, and sometimes you had had to go through a beam to run the pipe through it. When you do that you have to make a round hole, and other type weakens the beam. Two methods that I have used are a cutting torch and a magnetic base mount electric drill using a hole saw & cutting oil. I/we mainly used a torch as the drill is a heavy bugger. Even though it is quite small, it’s heavy, but it does a good job.

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