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Bedroom renovation

This topic contains 14 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  Boschmanbrian 2 months, 1 week ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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  • #666428

    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    Hi folks.

    I am tasked with (probably next summer) knocking down a wall and a closet in my daughter’s room and adding another wall to make the room bigger. It will eat into our living room, but we’re fine with that since it’s an awkward size room. I actually think it will improve both rooms. Knocking down a wall and adding another one is not a huge deal for me, but my question is this:

    Both rooms are currently finished with drywall ceiling (attic above) and hardwood floors. When adding the new wall, do people recommend tearing up hardwood floors to subfloor below to attach the new bottom plate, or simply attach the plate onto the existing hardwood?

    Similarly, should I pull drywall off the ceiling above the new wall to attach directly to wood, or fasten straight through the ceiling drywall? One thing to bear in mind is that the new wall will be predominantly parallel to the ceiling joists. Should I attach the top plate into the strapping (perpendicular to the joists)?

    There will be a small part of the wall that runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists, and I plan to just make that small wall a little taller and attach directly to the joists above. I’d appreciate guidance if that is not correct.

    Thanks so much for any help fellas.

    #666439

    In a mobile home like mine, they put in interior walls right over the carpet/flooring and the ceilings and walls are drywalled in first too. It is a real PITA if you want to do anything in the future as far as renovating. If it were me, I would strip to the studs and subfloor first. That way you are more “future proofed”.

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    #666455

    Doobie
    Pro
    Ajax, ON

    Myself, I wouldn’t sandwhich the drywall at the top or the flooring on the bottom. Somethings you didn’t mention, are you sure the wall being removed is not a load bearing wall and what orientation are the joists in the bottom?

    Kevin.

    Wannabee pro.

    #666456

    KeeganC
    Pro
    Bloomington, IN

    We routinely frame over both drywall and hardwood… can’t say I’d do it over carpet though… anyway, the remodeler in me cringes every time, feeling bad for the next guy that changes the flooring having to cut it away with a jamb saw or omt along the length of the wall. But overall you get plenty of connection as long as you know you’re fastening to framing above and below. If you think that hardwood may go at some point in the near future, then I’d probably go ahead and cut it away, just make sure you think about the door ways and leave it intact at those locations, otherwise you’re creating a real pita for yourself.

    #666459

    Seven-Delta-FortyOne
    Pro
    The Emerald Triangle, Northern California

    You should always remove drywall, and strapping is not sufficient to nail the top plate into. Instead, you should install blocking between ceiling joists, and nail to that.

    The bottom plate over hardwood is not as much of an issue, but to do a truly professional job, it should be removed.

    Delta

    Goin' Down In Flames........

    #666460

    smallerstick
    Pro
    Listowel, ON

    One thing to bear in mind is that the new wall will be predominantly parallel to the ceiling joists. Should I attach the top plate into the strapping (perpendicular to the joists)?

    I would try to get some attachment going on to minimize future cracking at the wall to ceiling drywall joint. Other than that, comments so far seem to have it covered.

    Good luck with the changes.

    I live in fear that when I die, my wife will sell my tools for what I told her I paid for them.

    #666552

    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    Thank you fellas for confirming what I believed to be the right way to go about it. So my plan now is to remove ceiling drywall and add blocking flush to the bottom of the joists.

    Next question: Can I just cut away the strapping where the wall will go then? If not I’d have to recess the blocking below the bottom of the ceiling joist, right?

    The wall in question is not load bearing. The joists run parallel to the wall above and below.

    #666602

    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    You should always remove drywall, and strapping is not sufficient to nail the top plate into. Instead, you should install blocking between ceiling joists, and nail to that.

    The bottom plate over hardwood is not as much of an issue, but to do a truly professional job, it should be removed.

    Delta

    I always remove above and below so I get a frame to frame connection too.
    I agree with 7Delta.

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #666645

    GTokley
    Pro
    Madoc, ON

    Myself, I wouldn’t sandwhich the drywall at the top or the flooring on the bottom. Somethings you didn’t mention, are you sure the wall being removed is not a load bearing wall and what orientation are the joists in the bottom?

    The wall being load bearing came to mind when read the post too. I have never done any of this so I have to add.

    Greg

    Work Smarter Not Harder

    #666716

    TopNotch
    Pro
    elmwood park, NJ

    I always remove the ceiling and floor areas where plates will be attached.
    Hardwood floor expand and contract and good anchoring for a possible shear wall at the top needs blocking.

    I do admit though there have been jobs where the partition was moved and it was possible it wouldn’t be permanent or I thought it was a horrible idea and someone later would take it down and move it back. In those cases I did frame floor plates on top of the hardwood and used 10d finish nails to hold it in place.

    Working Pro since 1993

    Tom M

    #666717

    ChadM
    Moderator
    East Palestine, Ohio

    I have to agree with removing the hardwood and the drywall ceiling. It can be done without that but you will get a much more solid connection, especially at the ceiling. I like to remove enough of the ceiling drywall to allow me to get several blocks in place to attach the new wall to. I also make sure to remove enough drywall to make the patch easier.

    Chad

    A Working Pro since 1993

    Member since 12/07/2013

    A Carpenter's Journal

    Housewright Construction

    #666725

    Boschmanbrian
    Pro
    Montreal , QC, Canada

    Thank you fellas for confirming what I believed to be the right way to go about it. So my plan now is to remove ceiling drywall and add blocking flush to the bottom of the joists.

    Next question: Can I just cut away the strapping where the wall will go then? If not I’d have to recess the blocking below the bottom of the ceiling joist, right?

    The wall in question is not load bearing. The joists run parallel to the wall above and below.

    I would try to add the blocking right above the strapping in the ceiling, this way you don’t disrupt the stripping strips and you still get a solid frame connection.
    As for the floor, I do prefer to remove any type of flooring under, but that’s an option to go over the existing floor.

    Good luck, looking forward to hearing any updates.

    #667013

    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    I would try to add the blocking right above the strapping in the ceiling, this way you don’t disrupt the stripping strips and you still get a solid frame connection.
    As for the floor, I do prefer to remove any type of flooring under, but that’s an option to go over the existing floor.

    Got it. So basically sister the blocking to the existing strapping, and frame into the blocking through the strapping? I think that’s what you’re saying, and it makes sense to me now to do it that way.

    Thanks again guys for the input. This page is the best. By the way I did decide that the flooring will get removed before I frame. I believe in doing things the right way, and some good points were made in favor of pulling up the flooring.

    #667014

    MrFid
    Pro
    Sudbury, MA

    it was possible it wouldn’t be permanent or I thought it was a horrible idea and someone later would take it down and move it back. In those cases I did frame floor plates on top of the hardwood and used 10d finish nails to hold it in place.

    Hahaha I love it! It’s like a tattoo artist who gives drunk idiots tattoos with inks that are guaranteed to fade after a year or two. Why should their current idiocy hurt them even more later? 🙂

    #667016

    Boschmanbrian
    Pro
    Montreal , QC, Canada

    I would try to add the blocking right above the strapping in the ceiling, this way you don’t disrupt the stripping strips and you still get a solid frame connection.
    As for the floor, I do prefer to remove any type of flooring under, but that’s an option to go over the existing floor.

    Got it. So basically sister the blocking to the existing strapping, and frame into the blocking through the strapping? I think that’s what you’re saying, and it makes sense to me now to do it that way.

    Thanks again guys for the input. This page is the best. By the way I did decide that the flooring will get removed before I frame. I believe in doing things the right way, and some good points were made in favor of pulling up the flooring.

    That’s exactly it,
    Good luck, and looking forward to any updates.

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