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Got the framing complete yesterday and had the roofers there today to install shingles and re-roof the house.
Nice work I like addtions like that we’re you don’t have to create new space by going out on to more land just go up for more space .
Always willing to learn .
I like the roofline break / eaves / lookouts above the existing garage that architecturally interrupts what would otherwise be an ungainly tall box without the break up. I see a lot of second story additions around here that are straight up stacked without that visual break that are not nearly as attractive as what you are building.
Got the framing complete yesterday and had the roofers there today to install shingles and re-roof the house.
Wow nice progress, really like the lift and the addition of space.
Automotive Pro
Fayetteville, NCI like the roofline break / eaves / lookouts above the existing garage that architecturally interrupts what would otherwise be an ungainly tall box without the break up. I see a lot of second story additions around here that are straight up stacked without that visual break that are not nearly as attractive as what you are building.
I agree. Esthetics and balance make a big difference. Doing that also makes it less appear as an addition and as if it was always there.
I like the roofline break / eaves / lookouts above the existing garage that architecturally interrupts what would otherwise be an ungainly tall box without the break up. I see a lot of second story additions around here that are straight up stacked without that visual break that are not nearly as attractive as what you are building.
I agree. Esthetics and balance make a big difference. Doing that also makes it less appear as an addition and as if it was always there.
We did the eyebrow on the front and back to break up what would be a huge space. we also followed the eyebrow lines on the end of the garage to create a false gable there so as not to have a two story wall that was unbroken. I will get a couple more photo’s today.
I saw that gable ramp up around the corner in the same pitch as the roof. I would like to see how it looks dead on though, from far enough back to see both angles of the roof pitch and the false gable below from the side of the house point of view.
From the front of the house, looking at the garage door, your design choice is brilliant. Looks as if the house was originally built that way. Plus, it reduces the amount of water sheeting down the building onto one’s head as they enter and exit the garage door.
I don’t know anything about snow collection though. Never lived in snow country. Never will.
no clips, just standard truss plated. Only 4 toenails on each truss, no Hurricane clips, so they popped fairly easily with a little help from a bar. Filled my two dump trucks with debris. It was a whopping 80 bucks to get them both dumped at the landfill. They give us a good rate on demolition waste instead of solid waste if the load does not have any paper or plastic in it.
That is really good. I just paid $49 for 2 truck loads in my short box pick up at my local dump. Both loads weighted 370 kg. Before they put the scales in I would have paid anywhere from $15 to $30 a load.
Greg
Do More of What Makes You HappyI have used these Simpson truss screws for trusses. A $1 per screw, but there isn’t a screw out there that can beat it for fully threaded holding power, nail like ductility, self drilling threads that don’t split the narrow ends of even the fastest grown genetically accelerated timber that has 3/8″ between grain lines, a T-25 driven cap screw head that is narrow and countersinkable… this is pretty much the sliced bread of modern truss screws, with corrosion protection coatings, and all the structural engineering certifications that Simpson could throw at them.
I have used these Simpson truss screws for trusses. A $1 per screw, but there isn’t a screw out there that can beat it for fully threaded holding power, nail like ductility, self drilling threads that don’t split the narrow ends of even the fastest grown genetically accelerated timber that has 3/8″ between grain lines, a T-25 driven cap screw head that is narrow and countersinkable… this is pretty much the sliced bread of modern truss screws, with corrosion protection coatings, and all the structural engineering certifications that Simpson could throw at them.
we have used the Fastenmaster option for a few years now. About the same screw. A while back I bought the Frame Fast driver so we do not even have to use ladders. Screws like this are so much nicer and faster than hurricane clips.
I see simpson has one not also but can not find a video on it
kurt@welkerhomes.com wrote:we got the frame up and the addition ready for the roof. more misc framing to do, but we will at least have it under cover.
It’s coming along – how much sq ft is the addition?
The addition is 22 x 26 or 572 SF. We just matched the garage size. They will also get a kitchen remodel.
oh great – that’s a good size
"If you're going to do something, do it right the first time"
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Palm Springs, CAWe have so much other metal that needs to go on we’d still have to have out the tico gun so I really don’t see the benefit of it for us.
They are much faster than clips. Also in our area we jane had frost form o. Walls where clips are due to them conducting the cold
They are much faster than clips. Also in our area we jane had frost form o. Walls where clips are due to them conducting the cold
Frost and metal brackets and clips are not a good combination. I’m impressed with the structural screws available now for critical joints.
Do you toe nail trusses in place during framing, then add the structural screws later?
BE the change you want to see.
Even if you can’t Be The Pro… Be The Poster you’d want to read.kurt@welkerhomes.com wrote:They are much faster than clips. Also in our area we jane had frost form o. Walls where clips are due to them conducting the cold
Frost and metal brackets and clips are not a good combination. I’m impressed with the structural screws available now for critical joints.
Do you toe nail trusses in place during framing, then add the structural screws later?
Yes that is what we do. We typically install screws when installing backing and all the misc framing after the roof trusses are complete and the roof is sheeted.
we have used the Fastenmaster option for a few years now. About the same screw. A while back I bought the Frame Fast driver so we do not even have to use ladders. Screws like this are so much nicer and faster than hurricane clips.
I see simpson has one not also but can not find a video on it
Simpson throws in a 22 degree angle guide with each box of screws, for those not wanting to invest in a ladder free alignment/installation tool.
kurt@welkerhomes.com wrote:we have used the Fastenmaster option for a few years now. About the same screw. A while back I bought the Frame Fast driver so we do not even have to use ladders. Screws like this are so much nicer and faster than hurricane clips.
I see simpson has one not also but can not find a video on it
Simpson throws in a 22 degree angle guide with each box of screws, for those not wanting to invest in a ladder free alignment/installation tool.
FastenMaster will mail out a guide also . We have a couple of those. In reality they have a +/- 10 degree tolerance on the 22 1/2 degree angle that they are supposed to be installed at so if you have much concept of angles, it is not to tough to get them within tolerance by eyeballing it.
I wanna see before and after on the stair work if you are able and have the time Kurt. Any hard to deal issues with integrating them?
@doobie here are a couple of photo’s of the stairs from the underside
I took a photo of the Gable end with the false gable
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doobie here are a couple of photo’s of the stairs from the underside
I took a photo of the Gable end with the false gable
Thanks Kurt! 👍
I took a photo of the Gable end with the false gable
What give the lower gable roof Strength,, what keeps it from blowing away?
kurt@welkerhomes.com wrote:I took a photo of the Gable end with the false gable
What give the lower gable roof Strength,, what keeps it from blowing away?
I was kinda wondering that too but I’m not a professional framer by any means. If I was maybe tackling that, a 2×8 or a 2×10 knotched out to a 2×4 for the part protruding to the exterior fastened to the framing studs inside maybe? Or is that it doesn’t even need anything beyong just a 2×4 as it really won’t carry much of a load anyways even in heavy snows.
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