dcsimg

4100 Dust Control Modifications

Viewing 16 posts - 61 through 76 (of 76 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #611049
    Doobie
    Moderator

    One thing you shoupd note about that hard steel edge the rollers glide on @kamster is that the steel rail is not level and sits at roughly a 10-11 degree angle.

    #611112
    #611118

    @kamster

    In photo order as uploaded:
    1. I have a double layer piece on the left because I didn’t extend it long enough and it kind of interferes with the guard if I made the inner piece long. So the outer piece you see there reduces the spray that comes off the left side, especially for cuts that aren’t encapsulated by the blade.

    2. The outer piece is lifted out of the way, showing the inner piece. That is folded in on itself so it will bump into the fence and then fold upwards instead of catching and then getting sucked into the blade. It has double sided tape and foil tape over it to make it want to flex at the joint where the double sided tape is at.

    3. Lifting the inner left side piece out of the way to show the detail of the split center piece.

    4. The center has two pieces, a big piece that I cut down the center to allow it to flex in a specific manner and then the sides are folded upwards and double taped together to make them somewhat rigid and bend away from the blade when they’re depressed into the work piece. The center piece is just a long strip that is formed like the U or C, which means when you push into it, at the angle it is at, it wants to bend back towards the actual rubber boot and away from the blade. It serves a good job at basically “sealing” against the workpiece where the blade ejects material.

    5. Detail of the right side, I didn’t have to add an additional piece to catch any sawdust because I have enough of the split center piece to work with. This is in addition to the motor exhaust air forming a high pressure zone. If I figure a way out to route the motor air into the exhaust port (…Sounds like time for a 3D printer project but I still haven’t finished the table or set it up yet) I could get away with a venturi injector setup and help assist the suction force.

    6. Just a detail photo of the original boot and how I joined together split center piece as well as the U folded center piece. Foil tape is used so it wants to maintain that shape up on the saw. You can see how much extension there is relative from the new material I added to the boot and it helps a lot. Enough to the point I don’t see the spray of sawdust on the left if I make a cut that cleans off the end of a piece without the blade being encapsulated on both sides by the cut.

    Edit: I just want to note this is still a “prototype” that improves over my original boot extension that would get sucked in and cut up by the blade with tall cuts. So far this new design is happy with 1.5″ tall cuts, so I’ll see how well it’ll do with compound cuts. I generally don’t use this saw for anything but straight 90s and miters since it is a little noodly.

    #611159
    Kamster
    Pro

    @Doobie

    Thank you for the photo and the info on the angles rail. That slight angle would make a huge difference in how the fence would clamp down (if I am able to find a replacement rail)

    #611163
    Kamster
    Pro

    @Reflector

    Thanks for the photos and detailed explanations. I added my miter saw dust shroud photos in the Bosch axial glide saw thread (Just to keep that thread organized)

    https://bethepro.com/forums/topic/bosch-cm10gd/page/3/#post-611160

    I used a heavier rubber material than what I used in the 4100’s dust shrouds. I was running into the same problem as you with the material being sucked into the blade. I hadn’t thought about folding the material over to get the needed weight to keep the shroud in place

    #611164

    @Kamster

    Try using some foil tape, it adds significant rigidity. In this current prototype the material doesn’t want to get sucked in due to the shape of the shroud and how it wants to fold outwards. Same stuff I used on the 4100.

    I attached an image of what Dewalt did with their Flexvolt shroud where they split it… Just an idea. I stuck with my center piece approach to get better sealing and for the ability to bring it down to very thin pieces.

    #611229
    Doobie
    Moderator

    @doobie

    Thank you for the photo and the info on the angles rail. That slight angle would make a huge difference in how the fence would clamp down (if I am able to find a replacement rail)

    I think you could make your own rails. Find some flat hardened steel and simply screw it onto a wooden made base edge that has the proper bevel. I’d use something like maple. Make it wide enough so that you can stick on along it a stick on ruler tape also.

    I can get you a better read on the bevel angle as that little angle finder thing I used had its needle bouncing around quite a bit and that reading was a ballpark reading. The key is to have equidistances from the edge of the steel from the front rail steel edge and that of the edge of the steel on the back side of the TS. And as long as they are relatively level, it should work dandy.

    Having a rail that locks both to the front and the back of the saw is great. There’s no deflection of the fence once locked down that way as is common in fence systems that only lock from the front.

    #611805
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Don’t understand. Who cares bout a bit of dust. We men or not?

    #611815
    Masterbosch
    Pro
    Wayne, NJ

    @808carpenter we are men but are.lungs are limited with self cleaning and working in clean environment is better for the health. You gotta keep the place clean one way or another. So collection the dust before it gets airborn it’s benefits everybody.

    plusoneconstructionllc@gmail.com

    #611820
    madman_us
    Pro
    Palm Springs, CA

    Don’t understand. Who cares bout a bit of dust. We men or not?

    @808Carpenter
    are you serious about that or is that only a (bad) joke?
    so you enjoy to inhale saw dust, silica dust etc?

    "If you're going to do something, do it right the first time"
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Instagram
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Palm Springs, CA

    #611831
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Don’t understand. Who cares bout a bit of dust. We men or not?

    @808carpenter
    are you serious about that or is that only a (bad) joke?
    so you enjoy to inhale saw dust, silica dust etc?

    Fresh cut wood smells good. What’s the problem. Almost 40 years doing the job just fine and didn’t wimp out. Everyones afraid off some dust

    My knees and back are gone but everyone is terrified of dust

    Trade winds take it haole

    #611844
    Doobie
    Moderator

    Don’t understand. Who cares bout a bit of dust. We men or not?

    @808Carpenter
    are you serious about that or is that only a (bad) joke?
    so you enjoy to inhale saw dust, silica dust etc?

    That didn’t last long. 😕

    #611846

    Don’t understand. Who cares bout a bit of dust. We men or not?

    @808Carpenter
    are you serious about that or is that only a (bad) joke?
    so you enjoy to inhale saw dust, silica dust etc?

    That didn’t last long. 😕

    Nope. Wonder if he gave up or got banhammered by the mods?

    #611919
    DirtyWhiteBoy
    Pro
    Honolulu,, Hi.

    Don’t understand. Who cares bout a bit of dust. We men or not?

    No man!!! These guys don’t like dust! LMAO!!!

    Dirty

    A Working Pro since 1988!

    Member since January 26, 2013.

    #632023

    I modified the splitter to direct more airflow into the guard instead of underneath the table, it seems to work fine and I don’t experience any saw dust packing up below the table. I will caution that I am using a fairly powerful vacuum. Photos attached, its just a piece of plastic taped on to direct more airflow, but the results speak of themselves.

    It still doesn’t pull enough suction to ensure an exposed side cut won’t spew dust, but it pulls out a lot of the fine, low inertia particles out. I’ve done cuts without the guard and with it, cyclone in the background. There’s visibly more dust going into the cyclone and less dust on me.

    Video showing how much suction is directed to the front of the guard:

    I may consider extending the piece of plastic to direct more airflow into the guard, it seems to work well and doesn’t impede below table collection. I’m still getting a lot of airflow with my less than advised modification which pulls suction up towards the front of blade where the dust is ejected.

    #632076

    I modified the splitter to direct more airflow into the guard instead of underneath the table, it seems to work fine and I don’t experience any saw dust packing up below the table. I will caution that I am using a fairly powerful vacuum. Photos attached, its just a piece of plastic taped on to direct more airflow, but the results speak of themselves.

    It still doesn’t pull enough suction to ensure an exposed side cut won’t spew dust, but it pulls out a lot of the fine, low inertia particles out. I’ve done cuts without the guard and with it, cyclone in the background. There’s visibly more dust going into the cyclone and less dust on me.

    Video showing how much suction is directed to the front of the guard:

    <figure class=”oe-video-container”><iframe width=”770″ height=”433″ src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/K7n7R0nAGdc?feature=oembed&wmode=opaque&#8221; frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=””></iframe></figure>
    I may consider extending the piece of plastic to direct more airflow into the guard, it seems to work well and doesn’t impede below table collection. I’m still getting a lot of airflow with my less than advised modification which pulls suction up towards the front of blade where the dust is ejected.

    Not bad at all!

    Not

Viewing 16 posts - 61 through 76 (of 76 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
queries. 0.485 seconds