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How to Finish Concrete – Step-by-Step Guide

Learn How to Finish Concrete

According to the National Institute of the Remodeling Industry, nearly 50 percent of homeowners plan to stay in their current homes at least six more years, so it’s logical that more people will be seeking help for larger and more challenging home improvement projects than ever.  When it comes to concrete projects, even the most skilled remodelers or do-it-yourselfers can use a little inspiration and help on how to finish concrete if they haven’t completed many concrete projects.

How to Finish Concrete

QUIKRETE has a useful video and accompanying project instructions for anyone interested in learning how to finish concrete or as a refresher for those who haven’t done such a project recently.

Click here to use the site’s Quantity Calculator and Shopping List to determine how much concrete you will need for your project.

The following project instructions accompany the video and provide more detail on how to finish concrete.  Remember, when working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.

Step 1 – Prior to placing concrete forms:

  • Construct the form with 2×4 or 2×6 lumber and secure in place by wood stakes and deck screws.
  • Excavate the slab area to a depth of about seven inches, allowing three inches for a gravel base and four inches for concrete.

Step 2 – Check the forms for level (¼ inch for every 12 feet is sufficient to allow for rain run-off). Patio and sidewalk forms should slope evenly away from structures.

Step 3 – Evenly spread three to four inches of QUIKRETE All Purpose Gravel and then level the gravel.

Step 4 – Compact the gravel base using a tamper.  TIP: A solid sub-base will help prevent erosion and slab settling.

Step 5 – Dampen the gravel base using a garden hose to prevent shrinkage cracking especially in hot temperatures.

Step 6 – Pour the concrete mix in evenly placed leads; the top of the concrete mounds should be about two to three inches above the forms before leveling.

Step 7 – Consolidate and distribute the concrete evenly using a hoe. The surface of the concrete should be relatively flat and slightly above the form.

Step 8 – Screed the concrete using a straight 2×4 by moving the board back and forth across the surface of the concrete in a sawing motion to remove the excess concrete and smooth the surface.

Step 9 – Add concrete to any low areas and screed level.

Step 10 – Once the concrete has lost its sheen, smooth the concrete surface using a wood float in an arching motion.  NOTE: Use a stiff-bristle broom to create a non-slip broom finish (all broom strokes should be made in the same direction).

Step 11 – Cut in control joints using a groover and straight-edge (a four-inch thick slab will require control joints a minimum of every 10 feet in each direction).  NOTE: control joints should be cut a minimum of ¼ the depth of the slab.

Step 12 – Use an edging tool to consolidate and shape the edges of the slab. Several passes should be made in each direction for a smooth finish.

Step 13 – Freshly placed concrete should be water cured for a minimum of three to five days with a fine water mist.  TIP: water curing can be eliminated by applying QUIKRETE Acrylic Concrete Cure & Seal immediately after finishing the concrete. Acrylic Cure & Seal can be applied with a roller, garden sprayer or a brush.

Did you find this how to finish concrete guide useful? Find even more how-to videos from QUIKRETE on their website.

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BeThePro.com is a construction industry information source for professionals working in the North American market. It provides access to how-to, best practices and best new materials details from experts in a variety of disciplines.

The Quest for the Ultimate Man Cave/Hunting Cabin

Concrete artist Thom Hunt and his BBStudios/Sprayed Concrete Creations teams’ latest project is creating a concrete earth cabin in a living waterfall. The waterfall will span the entire 110-foot length of the Cabin, which water will flow over from a spring-fed lake above the property. The water will flow over the building’s roof down into a smaller lake situated in front of the cabin.

The entire exterior of the house will be a rock formation so as to hide the cabin dwelling inside. The foyer /entry way of the cabin will be a replica of a cave with a water feature that includes a wet wall with flowstone and stalactites hanging from the ceiling. The challenge of this particular water fall project is that artificial rockwork is unpredictable. The water source for this feature won’t be a typical pump and return; the water source will be continuously fed by a natural spring 20-acre lake, so rainfall has to be incorporated into the equation.

This concrete structure will be incorporated as a feature under a natural waterfall in Arkansas.

Getting the catch and overflows will be a challenge for sure.

All the rockwork will be made of steel armatures wrapped in fiberglass lath the sprayed shotcrete. This formation will be be shaped and carved, using a plaster mix, to simulate a rock formation that appears to come from the side of a hill. The property is located on a 650-acre plot outside Little Rock, Ark., where the owner eventually wants to create a park for people can enjoy recreational activities that range from ATV riding to camping.

A Concrete Man Cave

 

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Thom Hunt of BBStudios has over 30 years as a professional artist Thom has perfected his talents as a sculptor, painter and designer. Thom Hunt has put together an amazing variety…Read more

Choosing a Rotary Hammer to Fit Your Needs

Knowing the dimensions of your concrete drilling job will help you determine the right size rotary hammer to use.

Whether it’s new construction or maintenance, many jobs require drilling holes in concrete. Selecting the right tool for the job is critical, but making the right choice can be complicated.   Types of tools, bit holding systems and drill bit types, as well as nature of the job that needs to be done and availability of electric power – these are some of the variables that need to be taken into consideration. First some definitions:

Rotary hammer: A tool that drills using rotation and a hammering action that breaks up the concrete as the bit rotates. Rotary hammers are designed for day-in/day-out use. Demolition hammer: Heavy-duty tool designed to chip or break up concrete. Combination hammer: A dual-mode hammer designed to either drill or break up concrete.

Before selecting a hammer, determine the diameter of the holes you need to drill. The diameter of the holes will dictate the type of hammer and the bit holding system you select.

Every tool has its own optimal drilling range. By identifying tools with optimal ranges correlating with the dimensions of the holes required, you can decide which size tool is required. By selecting the optimum hammer designed to drill the holes required, more efficient performance is guaranteed. Though operating the hammer within these ranges offers best results, each hammer also includes the flexibility to drill larger holes as well. The bit-holding system consists of the tool’s internal components that hold the bit in place and transfer energy from the electric motor and gearing mechanism to the bit. Most hammers utilize one of three systems: SDS-plus, ® SDS-max® or spline. Spline is a popular bit holding system that has been used for many years, but is gradually being replaced by the superior SDS-max system. Like doctors have specialties, each bit-holding system operates most efficiently and accurately within a defined range. For each system those ranges are: SDS-plus: 3/16” – 3/4” SDS-max: 1/2” – 1-3/4” Spline:        3/8” – 1-3/8”

Though intermittent drilling at capacity is possible, it’s always better to opt for the next larger hammer if any drilling series requires larger holes. Like any other tool or machinery, constantly pushing a hammer to its extremes will eventually lead to failure. Investing in the next larger hammer up front will pay off in the long run.

 

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Concrete: How to Address the Crack

Addressing concrete cracks is about size, location and cost. Photo: Capitol Concrete Solutions with the Concrete Network

If you deal in concrete then you deal in addressing the potential of cracks. Our friends at the Concrete Network (http://www.concretenetwork.com/) have thought about this very issue and here’s their response:

There are no ACI standards or recommendations that give a “yes” or “no” answer to crack repair based on crack width and other factors. The significance of cracking depends on many factors, including crack orientation with respect to reinforcement, cover thickness and exposure. As described in “Causes, Evaluation and Repair of Cracks in Concrete Structures” (ACI 224.1R), repair methods also consider whether the cracking is due to one time or repeated effects. Since the cracking appears to be caused by unique events, epoxy injection is a logical choice.

Experienced injection crews can repair very fine cracks, often finer than 5 mils (0.005 inch), if this is needed. It often isn’t and economics then will dictate that a wider limit be set as the basis for repair. Often, this limit is about 25 to 30 mils. This would probably be sufficient on your job. However, epoxy injection consultant Peter Barlow of Seattle, Wash., recommends that cracks as fine as 8 to 10 mils be injected if there is available budget and a likelihood that movement may continue at the cracks. If movement continues, the crack edges will tend to ravel and future repairs may be needed.

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Concrete Overlay: Less Expensive, but Always Right Choice?

Concrete overlay can be less expensive and create a great effect. But is it the right option for a cracked driveway? Photo orlando-florida.olx.com

The cost to replace concrete is high — ripping out massive placements of existing concrete, preparing the ground beneath with a new layer of gravel, new concrete prep, delivery, spread, placement and shaping.  There are a variety of considerations, including concrete overlay for, placements that don’t have damage that reaches below the surface. Overlay is a popular topic, but it’s not the right solution in every case. It’s important to make the right call for the situation at hand.

Here’s what some other professionals have to say about it — our friend Tim at AsktheBuilder.com offers this recent post on the overlay option. It’s a big topic because there’s a lot at stake — cost surely, but longevity, aesthetics. There are decisions to be made — no one size fits all. Like many situations, get as much information as you can from good sources and make the call that’s right for you and your customer. And keep this in mind: an overlay is an attractive option if concrete damage is at the surface. If your concrete has serious cracks or other deterioration below the surface — a crack or other degrading that goes right down to the ground below – those flaws can rise to the top again quickly, negating a nice overlay.  Do some homework — low cost doesn’t always win the day.

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