Efficient woodshop storage solutions are a key component to any woodshop space.  If a shop is well organized and has efficient storage then the workflow becomes more efficient and ultimately more profitable.  There are a multitude of items in a shop that need a place to be stored out of the way, but still easily accessible.  The three main categories of items to be stored in a typical woodshop are tools, supplies and materials.

Woodshop Storage Tips

Tool Storage:  Tools need to be stored in a way that they are quickly and easily accessible as you work.  If it’s cumbersome to access your tools then it wastes time and money.  Tools should be stored near the area of the shop where they are most commonly used to avoid unnecessary trips across the shop.  For example, I have all of my hand tools stored near my workbench where they get used and all of my portable power tools stored near my assembly table where they are most commonly used.  I prefer to have as many tools as possible stored inside cabinets to keep the dust off of them, which makes shop clean up faster.

Supply Storage:  Shop supplies can be stored a little differently from tools.  I like to break supply storage down into bulk storage and quick-access storage.  For example, I buy cabinet assembly screws in large boxes, but I don’t need the whole box at my fingertips.  I store the box of bulk screws on a higher shelf since it’s not accessed every day and store a smaller quantity of the screws on a lower shelf where they are easily accessible when I need them.  Not all storage spaces in your shop can be equally accessible, so it’s important to store your most reached-for items nearby.

Material Storage:  Generally, I buy the materials that I need on a job-by-job basis rather than having a large quantity of materials that need a place to be stored.  As a one-man shop, it’s not worth it for me to buy materials in bulk and have to create a place to store them.  However, I do have storage for scrap material and for the materials that I am working with on a current project.  For storing shorter lengths of solid wood I built a stepped storage bin out of 1/2″ plywood that allows me to organize and group by length and species.  For storage of longer scraps of solid wood and lengths of lumber that I am currently working with I have a wood storage system mounted on the wall above my scrap bin.  This allows me easy access to whatever piece of wood I need.  Sheet goods get stored against the wall.

My Woodshop Storage Cabinets

A shop is always a work in progress with elements always changing and being refined to work better.  I have recently built and installed the carcasses for my shop cabinets.  As time allows I will build the drawers, pull-outs, doors and countertop.  Even though the cabinets are not complete yet, they still provide me with useful storage in my shop and scrap plywood serves as a temporary countertop surface.  I have designed my cabinets with plenty of drawer space and each of the large lower cabinets will be outfitted with two pull-outs for power tool storage.  Pull-outs really make the most of lower cabinet space and will provide efficient storage for all of my power tool cases.  The countertop provides a work surface as well as a place to keep some of my most commonly used power tools for quick access.  When completed, my shop cabinets also will serve as an example of my work to show clients when I meet with them.  Learn how you design your own woodshop storage with construction design software.

One of the most useful woodshop storage and work-surface fixtures in my shop is my assembly table.  The table has plenty of storage inside the cabinets with open bays for future drawers.  The assembly table rides on locking castors so it can be moved around the shop and the storage goes with it.  I built the table at the same height as my table saw so it doubles as an outfeed table.  When rolled in front of my shop cabinets it acts as an island and provides an efficient work center with easy access to my portable power tools and supplies.  Time spent on woodshop storage solutions is time well spent since it allows you to work more efficiently, and ultimately makes you more money.

Image from phantomcreekbuilders.com

I love to problem solve because it makes projects more challenging and more rewarding.  I also enjoy sharing my experiences with others; this is why I love working with a client from the initial design to the finished project.  One of the first things I ask potential clients to do is spend some time thinking about what they want to accomplish with an addition.  For example, they may want a larger kitchen but in reality once you make a list of what the client hopes to gain from a remodel/addition final plans could be different.

The first thing that should be done in any remodel is to make a wish list of anything and everything the client would change about the house if they could.  Price should not be a consideration at this point.  Next, look at the list and see if there are any ideas that keep reoccurring.  After you have the list together, call and set up appointments with potential contractors.  It’s important to form a relationship with a contractor from the start and let them help remodel.  Chances are the contractor will add insightful ideas to the project that you never considered.

Image from jeremykrill.com

By meeting with a contractor at this point, you’ll get a better idea of how best to work together.  When you meet with the potential contractors, show them the list and mark each idea in order of importance.  Even if you know what needs to be done, go over the list with the contractor to incorporate other ideas into your project.

A perfect example is a growing family: They may need more bedrooms, bathrooms or increased storage.  Most of these needs could be addressed with an addition versus adding one small bedroom.  Using attic trusses would be a good example of a low-cost way to gain more storage space during an addition.  Don’t just look for a contractor to build an idea, share your vision with the contractor and let them help you design a renovation that your client will appreciate for years to come.

As a remodeling contractor, I quickly learned that being a professional means you need to develop standards and best practices, especially when it comes to dealing with dust and debris.  The same rules that apply for debris control can apply to both remodeling and home additions, especially as the project nears completion.  When the walls are up and more finish work is being done, you need to make sure there’s a way to minimize dust and debris in the house.

One trick I learned early on was to avoid dragging trash and debris from the remodeling zone through a client’s home on the way to the dumpster.   Dragging trash barrels through a house inevitably leads to dinged up trim-work, soiled and dirty carpets and scratched hardwood floors. All of this inevitably (and rightfully) leads to an angry client.

The best way to keep from disappointing your client (and losing any possible referrals) is to learn how to build a remodeling debris chute and keep from tracking dust and debris through the house to the dumpster. A debris chute is a quick, safe and efficient method of removing remodeling and demolition debris.

A chute is basically a tube or slide that carries trash and construction debris from the remodeled zone and out of the house and into a dumpster or trash barrels.  It uses gravity, so energy cost is low – and everyone wins, especially that smart contractor in you.

Click here to read how you can create your own debris chute.

1. Gather Legal Documents – If you’re serious about adding an addition to you home you’ll need to track down a few legal documents before you plan anything. First and foremost you’ll need to find an accurate plot plan of your property showing the property lines and the proximity of the existing and proposed buildings to those lines. This is extremely important because you’ll need to ensure the new addition isn’t built “outside” jurisdictional set-backs defined by local Zoning laws. If this step is skipped it’s highly likely a building built too close to the property lines will have to be torn down! Plot plans and surveys are usually available your local Registry of Deeds.
2. Determine a Realistic Budget – Before you meet with a builder or architect it’s important to set a budget that you feel comfortable with. The last thing you want to do is fall in love with a design and stretch yourself thin financially. You should develop a budget that includes the hard cost of the project, a decent contingency number, increases to property taxes, utility expenses and even insurance. Stick to your budget and you’ll be stress free when the project is finished and ready to enjoy your new space.
3. What Do You Need? – Determine what you need above and beyond what you might “want”. It’s really important to identify what exactly you need. If you need another bedroom don’t be tempted to add a hot tub! Be sure to write down a very specific list of the needs and functions the new space will provide. In addition, it’s always good to have a list of “special” items you might want to consider if the budget ends up “fat”. Instead of ignoring some of the finer things in life why not add a couple to your list and see which ones you might be able to do add if there’s room in the budget.

Click here to read tips 4-10.

1. Regular home maintenance: new roofs, electrical upgrades, heating, windows etc.
2. Home additions to add more rooms to accommodate space needs

Home additions are quite common for homeowners with families. Common room additions are bedrooms, bathrooms, family rooms and storage.

Two Types of Home Additions

Adding a Second Story

If homes have a small lot and are built close to the property line, it may be hard to expand with traditional room additions.  If a home addition is necessary, then the only option is to build up.  This entails cutting the roof off the existing structure.  If your home is a story and a half, it already has a second floor structure the builder can use to frame walls and add a new roof.  Adding additional stories requires major planning by both the homeowner and the builder because an addition of this magnitude prevents the homeowner from living in the house during construction.  It’s the builder’s responsibility to consult with an engineer to make sure the foundation can handle the extra weight of an extra story.  The contractor also must take precautions to make sure no snow or rain gets in the house, which could destroy floors, walls, ceilings and electrical wiring.

Expanding on the Ground Floor

Houses that sit on larger lots can usually accommodate additions out instead of going up.  The first thing that will happen is excavation to create a strong foundation for the additional living space, which usually results in a new lawn at the end of the project.  Builders can use various foundation forming systems, but my favorite are insulated concrete forms by Nudura.  A major advantage of this type of home addition compared to adding a second (or third) story is that the homeowner can continue to live in the house for a longer time.  That’s because the addition is separate from the rest of the house and it’s not until walls in the existing home are demolished that life for the homeowner is disrupted.  The demolition (or breakthrough) usually doesn’t happen until the new addition is fully framed and weather-tight, and then alterations need to be made to the existing structure to accommodate any new point loads.

Other Considerations

One of the most important parts of planning home additions is to hire a contractor who understands homeowner needs from the start.  The same applies to the architect, who can’t design an addition without knowing what the homeowner is looking to achieve.  The challenge is to blend the addition seamlessly with the existing structure.  Before additions are considered, homeowners need to understand local zoning regulations.  Also, increased square footage will put added strain on existing electrical, plumbing and HVAC systems.  I encourage homeowners to upgrade these systems when starting home additions so they can operate at maximum efficiency.

The above renovation pictures are the work of Topsail Projects.

New Bosch Precision Tip oscillating tool blades offer two advantages over conventional blades: The curvature of a precision tip delivers better debris removal and greater metal thickness at the interface provides increased vibration control.  And less vibration is good.

The blades include the OSC114F bi-metal for wood, metal and other general-purpose applications; OSC114 high-carbon steel for wood cutting; and the OSC114JF, a Japanese-tooth blade designed for fast, smooth cuts in wood and hardwood.  Typical applications for these blades include notches, plunge cuts and cutoffs.

“This new blade design offers cleaner surface cuts and more precise straight plunge cuts,” said Luca Pugina, group product manager for oscillating tool blades, Bosch-North America, accessories.  “The value to the end user is greater control and accuracy where the accessory meets the work piece.”

In addition to the new blade design, Bosch Precision Tip blades feature a thicker interface bracket, 1.25mm of steel versus 1mm for a conventional blade.  This 25 percent increase in thickness reduces vibration and takes the guess work out of making precise cuts.  And the blades are tapered for even more vibration control; less material, less vibration and more efficient debris removal.

And Bosch Precision Tip multi-tool blades offer the advantages of Bosch’s Oscillating Interface System (OIS™). OIS maintains the 12-pin structure of the company’s first multi-tool interface, but can be used on every professional brand of multi-tool without the need for an adapter.

Watch the head-to-head blade competition below and see how to you can enter for a chance to win 1 of 300 available OSC114F Bosch multi-tool blades.

If you left concrete surfaces around your house unprotected this winter, it’s very likely that you have a crack or two to deal with this spring. The repeated freezing and thawing that occurs due to changes in daytime and nighttime temperatures during the winter can cause concrete to crack and flake. When rain, snow or ice migrates through cracks in concrete and saturates the substrate, the concrete will shift and move every time freezing and thawing occurs. This repeated movement can cause the cracks to expand or create new ones. Fortunately, there is simple and inexpensive way to repair these unwanted cracks before entertaining family, friends or other guests at your home.

QUIKRETE^® Polyurethane Concrete Crack Sealant is a textured one-component, fast-curing, flexible material that provides a durable elastic bond, so no matter how the concrete surface shifts in the future the repair will stay intact.  In addition to improving the appearance of a concrete surface, using a polyurethane concrete crack sealant prevents the crack from returning in the future.

Click here to use the site’s Quantity Calculator and Shopping List to determine how much concrete you will need for your project.

Project Instructions

The following project instructions accompany the video and provide more detail on how to finish concrete.  Remember, when working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.

Step 1 – Widen the crack to a minimum of 1/4 inch using a chisel and hammer. The edges of the crack should be vertical or beveled in an inverted “V”.

Step 2 – Break away any deteriorating concrete and remove loose material with a brush.

Step 3 – Cut the tip of the nozzle on an angle with a utility knife to match the width of the crack and load into a standard caulk gun.  NOTE: for large cracks over 1/2 inch deep, a backer rod should be placed in the crack before applying the sealant.

Step 4 – Slowly draw the gun along the joint forcing a bead of concrete repair caulk deep into the crack.

Step 5 – Remove excess material with a trowel immediately after placement.

Materials List

• QUIKRETE® Polyurethane Concrete Crack Sealant
• Caulk gun
• Trowel
• Utility knife
• Hammer and chisel
• Stiff bristle brush
• Citrus-based cleaner OR mineral spirits
• Cloth
• Waterproof gloves
• Safety glasses

Of all the household chores that are nearly as despised as they are absolutely necessary, cleaning the gutters just might be the granddaddy of them all. It’s a dirty job — actually, it’s a filthy, soggy, slimy, messy, exhausting job that requires touching decomposing organic slop while teetering on the edge of a ladder — but somebody’s got to do it — and it’s not your older customers

The gutter system is what keeps water from pooling up on a home’s foundation, flooding the basement and ruining the roof. Although gutters have to be cleaned, cleaning them with as little frequency as humanly possible is the goal.  There are many devices on the market to help meet that goal. Gutter guards — also called gutter screens — are the most common and readily available.

Installing gutter covers doesn’t have to be a specialized job. Covers range from plastic and mesh panels to aluminum covers.

Guide to Installing Gutter Guards

Prep: Clean and Check for Leaks

First, clean gutters one last time, then check them for leaks by bringing a garden hose up to the roof and running enough water through them to make sure none is being diverted away from the gutter spout.

Measure

It seems obvious, but measure the length and width of the gutters. Perhaps the only thing more maddening than cleaning the gutters is ordering gutter guards — only to bring them to the job and find out they’re too small or large.

Weigh Your Options and Your Needs

The amount of labor and skill required varies dramatically depending on what style and material chosen. If the dimensions of the gutters requires cutting the guards, factor that into the decision to buy mesh, vinyl or plastic. Installation for some guards means simply snapping them into place, while others require hand tools.

Be Careful

Thousands of people are badly injured each year from ladder accidents. This is a potentially dangerous job that virtually all experts recommend doing with a partner.

Install

Start at the end of the gutter, tuck the edge of the guard under the first shingle and roll it along the length of the gutter, securing it with snaps or nails where directions indicate.

There are a lot of options in gutter covers. Pick the one that fits the majority of your customers’ needs and that you can become proficient in installing.

Gutters regulate the flow of water and direct it away from the home, preventing costly and often permanent water damage. Cleaning them is time consuming, labor intensive and dirty. The value to your customers is this: Spending the time and money to install gutter guards now can pay dividends for years to come with cleaner gutters and less concern about the damage water can do to a home.

This article was originally written by Andrew Lisa and published with permission. He is a freelance writer living in Los Angeles who often writes about home improvement.

Meet Barnaby from ToolSelect.com

If you haven’t seen the guy above – his name’s Barnaby, and he hosts a slew of videos over at ToolSelect.com.  ToolSelect is a great site for the latest in-depth tool reviews.  Their focus is video reviews, and they all do an awesome job at it – I’ve had some fun filming with them.

Spend time with some Pros on Wednesday, May 15th, at 8 p.m. CST.

ToolSelect organized a Google Hangout with Pros from various publications and websites, and Barnaby is going to be the “ringmaster.”  Make sure you tune-in on Wednesday, May 18, at 8 p.m. CST.

It will be a time for promoting the trades and hearing from different pros.  Our topic will be centered around using various media sources to get the word out for the trades and businesses.  In addition to Barnaby, I’ll be joined with Brian Kelsey (Kelsey On The House), Seth Rosen (custommade.com), Justin Fink (Fine Homebuilding), Brian Pontolilo (Fine Homebuilding) and Matt Vanderlist (Matt’s Basement Workshop).

Here’s how it works…

Google Hangouts take place on Google+.  If you have a Google email account, then you automatically have a Google+ account.  If you are logged into your Gmail account, you can go to google.com and you will see the image below on the top right side of your browser (except it probably won’t say Joe Sainz ).  Click on your name and you will be directed to your Google+ page.

Once you are logged into your account you can go to ToolSelect’s Google+ account and watch the Google Hangout.

Regardless of the cost of a project a written construction contract protects all parties involved.

A well written construction contract clearly details and “paints a picture” of what you are promising to do. Details in this proposal include specific materials, payment schedule and costs.

A professional and well-written contract not only portrays you in a professional light but protects you and your client from misunderstandings and conflict.

A construction contract should always be specific with regard to the scope of work. This protects you from having to do work you had no original intention of doing. You know what I mean that dreaded “I assumed you were also going to do X, Y and Z?” or even worse “ I thought that was included.”

Those comments usually accompany a client holding back the last payment until you agree to do something for them that you never agreed to but they “assumed” it was covered.

How do you protect from that? By providing the client a well written and detailed scope of work proposal!

Not only does a detailed proposal protect you from having to do extra work it ensures that you can charge for any extra work not originally agreed on. Extra things like add on items, changes mid-project and the dreaded hidden conditions.

Spend Time On The Scope Of Work:

Most of my construction proposal is a template and I fill in the blanks on the owner information, payments, start and finish dates, etc. The scope of work section is where I spend most of my time ad is where you should pay the MOST attention to.

This is by far the MOST IMPORTANT section of the contract and you need to be as detailed as possible.

For more tips and sample wording for your contract READ MORE